upgrading 2500

[Phil Eyler]

Here's my problem. I have a 2006 2500 HD with duramax and allison.
I pull a 3400. I really like this truck, and it only has 43000 miles on it. But I think I'm probably pushing the weight limit and it only has a 25 gal fuel tank. Has anyone out there upgraded their 2500. I'm considering adding a new fuel tank, chipping the engine, adding new springs, and an exhaust brake. I know you can get all this on the new 2011, but their expensive!
Anyone have any experience?

[gitrdun]

You really don't need to install a chip, but you can install a speed brake by Banks, which a plug in, really simple to install and works great. Had mine for 3 years and would not do without it. I installed a Titan fuel tank that replaces the factory one and holds 52 gal. The springs will not give you any more gvwr since the truck is rated what it is. If you get sagging and bouncing install air bags which you can adjust the amount of air for a better ride. The exhaust dosen't need to be changed. I know I have done all of this and some of it is wasted money. Just an opion from someone who has experienced all of this.

[Emmel]

All that I've done to my 2002 GMC is air bags. I have a lot less hp than you or the 2011s do, but it's plenty! The Banks system would be a very good improvement.
You can change the rear springs, but the truck is still legally rated as a 3/4 ton truck, you can't change that!

[Tom S.]

Everything on your 2500 is the exact same as the 3500 (single rear wheel) except the springs. So other than springs, there is no need to do any of the other things you listed. Just be aware though, even if you were to upgrade the springs and even added dual rear wheels, legally you still have a 3/4 ton truck. If you really want a one ton with the added capacity in both weight and fuel, why not sell yours and buy a used one? If you shop around, you shouldn't be out much if any money.

[kdeiss]

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

Everything on your 2500 is the exact same as the 3500 (single rear wheel) except the springs. So other than springs, there is no need to do any of the other things you listed. Just be aware though, even if you were to upgrade the springs and even added dual rear wheels, legally you still have a 3/4 ton truck. If you really want a one ton with the added capacity in both weight and fuel, why not sell yours and buy a used one? If you shop around, you shouldn't be out much if any money.

You need to add Rear Springs, Tires and Wheels you will have a 3500HD

[Art-n-Marge]

My experience with my Ford is that it is possible to legally upgrade the springs and gain some GVWR as long as you make the comparison with the exact configuration of 3500 SRW - check the diff, brakes, drive shaft, everything - and then upgrade all the necessary factory parts! In my case, my Ford F-250 could be upgraded to a Ford F-350 because only an overload leaf spring and the supporting brackets and hardware were the only major differences. The other difference was the wheels and tires (I had 17" and needed 18"), but oftentimes the F-250s have F-350s wheels on them (don't forget the spare). This was because I could only find tires that supported the increased GVWR starting at 18" (just like what's on an F-350).

This is a legal configuration and is allowed for personal use (not commercial use). If I wanted to be able to use my upgraded truck commercially, then I would have to recertify the truck, where they confirm I have all the right parts to make it an F-350, then you'll get a new VIN. As you can imagine there's some serious expense for this part and since I only plan to use my truck for private purposes I did not do this.

Now you are also talking about adding a bunch of additional stuff that adds to the curb weight (less for cargo and the pin). You have to decide for yourself if adding all these mods would be better than just buying a new truck. As for the mods themselves - here's my experience with them:

New fuel tank - I have a 38 gallon OEM tank so I don't feel I need it. But when it's full, my truck's curb weight is 8,100 lbs including the new leaf springs, wheels and tires and all the other addons. That leaves 3,400 lbs for DW, passengers, cargo and the pin (used to be 1,900 before the suspension upgrade). I gained 900 lbs for RAWR, 1,500 lbs GVWR and 500lbs for CGVWR. Calculate the weight of diesel fuel between 7.1 to 7.3 pounds, plus the tank and hardware and add a little for sloshing around (a baffled tank helps minimize this) and subtract this from your cargo weight. Besides a fuel transfer tank, would you consider upgrading the existing tank? There might be some aftermarket addons that increase the size under the frame so you don't lose any room in the truck bed.

Chipping the engine - I did a Banks chip on a prior truck and the gains are phenomenal. I think I lost all the mpgs when I drove around like a hot rod. It helped with towing a prior trailer a lot especially up the hills but pay attention to the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature). A long hill might need you to slow down. DO NOT mod anything without adding an EGT gauge. I have not modified my current truck and while I know the chip could make things better, I'm gonna wait in favor of other things I want to do first. When I traded my prior truck in it was starting to have transmission shift problems and I think it was because of the chip (should have added the Banks trans mod, but not sure the cause). I let the dealer know about it and they said they would "take care of it".

Exhaust Brake - I want one too. I would like the new Banks brake system, but there are others (i.e. Pacbrake). I would recommend this. Too many times we think about getting some get up and go for the load, but we forget that we need to stop all of this or slow it down especially on hills, too!

EGT gauge - I'm adding this because as you upgrade your truck, you might have a tendency to drive it harder because you'll be able to. You'll need the EGT gauge to monitor things don't get out of hand. The mods you were considering do not always automatically provide this and you'll be glad you have this one.

Larger Exhaust - Kinda goes along with the chip and the EGT. Larger plumbing will help exhaust all that new power and keep the EGT down. Just adding the chip and not doing this can suffocate the system and not get you as much gain. So many have complained about adding the chip and being disapointed in the lack of gains and it's because they have done nothing else and are suffocating the engine (and increasing the EGT). The new exhaust reduces backpressure and this would help your truck even if you do nothing else (the EGT gauge should confirm your truck will run cooler).

I hope this helps, and I hope others post their mods. These are only my experiences.

[Illini Trekker]

Look at Sig, IMOP best upgrade would be 1.Air bags (levels the truck up) 2. 4" exhaust and delete the catalytic converter (really lowers EGTs) 3. next time you buy tires move up one size to 265/75/16 that move the weight limit up to 3415 a tire (I have Michelin X Radials), I have mine chipped but run it on 0 settings to keep the EGTs lower. Don't have the exhaust brake, around unknown hill/roads I run with the semi trucks and do as they do so I have little surprises about down hill grades. I know your talking about truck upgrades but I added Trail Air with TriGlide and this was the best ride upgrade you can do! make! Adding larger fuel tank will lower your GVWR, I can drive about 300 miles on a tank and thats enough for me to get out and take a stretch

[camper4]

In my mind the weakest part of your truck is the tires and wheels. It has enough of everything else except fuel capacity.
Best way is to buy a 1 ton, used or new, with an 8 foot bed.

[Art-n-Marge]

From what I found, upgrading wheels and tires alone are not just the way to go. You can buy tires with hundreds of pounds more capacity but if you don't have the other parts (suspension, etc.) to support the increase then you're just wasting money buying something you can't fully use. But it's your choice.

I learned about all this during my suspension upgrade.

And for the record, air bags do not increase your GVWR. They just help with the ride, raising the backend to remove sag and bring headlights back down. Learned this too talking to Firestone support. They hate that sales and vendors are saying otherwise (to make the sale), but there is documentation on their site that states "do not exceed" the GVWR. I have them and use them and love them but not for GVWR reasons.

I've already mentioned the legalities for increasing the GVWR. I should point out that this is the case for California. Your state might be different.

[kdeiss]

Adding the following will change your GVWR from 9200 Lbs to 9900 Air bags will not do this
3 stage rear leaf springs
Lt265/75r16 tires
7" wide wheels
all used on the 3500

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by kdeiss
You need to add Rear Springs, Tires and Wheels you will have a 3500HD

While I agree in principle, I don't believe the government would agree with you.

[kdeiss]

quote:Originally posted by Tom S.

While I agree in principle, I don't believe the government would agree with you.

Tom explain the Goverment

[thor]

i had the 2500 2003 chevy.by the time i needed fuel i needed a break from driving or a washroom break. if you think you are near your weight limit then the added weight of more fuel just adds more weight on your truck.if anything upgrade your brakes with bigger or better rotors on the front or banks braking system or both.everyone likes power to pull. but you have to be able to stop these units also.

[mlh]

A 2500 and 3500 Chevy SRW are exactly the same except for wheel and tire size, and springs. If you upgrade those in effect you have a 3500 truck. Be careful with a chip, the Allison while a very fine transmission wont take but about 60 extra RWHP and remain reliable. You don't need a chip in your truck anyway. I think a 06 Chevy is the best stock tow truck ever built, with the possible exception of the 2011 Chevy.
Lynwood

[RCN.Stoker]

Timbrens, 265-75-16's and you are as close as you can be to the 3500 SRW. The Timbrens act as a helper spring and keep the truck level as well as absorbing shocks. They have the advantage of not stiffening the ride when the truck is empty. I am investing in the Banks Speed Brake just for the extra safety and reduced stress on the long downhill runs. Adding an extra fuel tank will cut into your payload. I keep a 5 gallon can in the trailer just in case.

[exav8tr]

I added an extra spring set and air bags to my '05 2500. The spring shop said I could carry an extra 1000 lbs by adding the spring, The bags were to keep from bottoming out. I added a Transfer Flow 52 gal OEM replacement tank which ate up some of that 1000 lbs. The problem with the 2500 is it only has a 9200 lb capacity. My 2500 weighed 6700 lbs leaving only 2500 lbs for payload. My pin weight on my 3400 is 3000 lbs so I was over this weight, especially when I filled the TF Tank to the max. It did ride better and I felt better, however, as everyone says it was still a 2500 and IF the government ever established weight limits for private trucks many of us would be in deep kemchee.. In '08 we upgraded to a 3500 DRW and feel we are on the edge with this one also. It seems that one can not have a big enough truck.......