Pressure reducing valve - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

skypilot · 12-21-2006, 10:38 AM

Ozzie: Will the gate valve actually hold reduced pressure or just reduce flow so that down stream flow pressure is less. If the later, what do you have in mind for holding pressure down when you're not pulling water. (Seems to me that once you turn the inside faucet off, the pressure will build on both sides of the gate valve until equal.)

Ozzie · 12-21-2006, 10:56 AM

Boy...you got me on that one, but your logic of both sides equaling out sounds like the likely scenario to me. It might be back to the drawing board it sounds and track down the regulator...shoot.
That's what happens when a person gets anxious in a store...

Glenn and Lorraine · 12-21-2006, 11:51 AM

OK here's more on my system....

First the regulator...

The Dual filters....

I take the water from the spigot which in this case is at 80 PSI. Than to the regulator and reduce
the pressure to 57 PSI. From the regulator to the Dual filters and than into the trailer. Knowing what's coming into the reg. is not nearly as important as what I got going out of it.
I normally hook up the gage with the wye first. If the CG's pressure is over 50 psi I than hook up the regulator. If the CGs pressure is under 50 psi I don't bother with the regulator.

Have used this system for over 2 years without any problems at all.

David and Jo-Anna · 12-21-2006, 12:58 PM

Glenn--that is one IMPRESSIVE setup!!!

Question for you--have you have any problem with your regulator getting contaminated and needing to be cleaned as others have reported? I'd be tempted to put the regulator after the filter to cut down on the risk of contamination. Any reason not to do it that way?

Glenn and Lorraine · 12-21-2006, 01:26 PM

Never had a problem with the reg being contaminated or clogged with any sort of sediment.

Placing the filters inline first should not be a problem other than putting full CG pressure initially on the hose leading to the filters. This hose could be consider "the weakest link". With my system the higher pressure is always on the brass fittings.

Ozzie · 12-22-2006, 03:31 AM

I found out that Honeywell makes these pressure limiters as well...I would have to think those boys know a few things about making controls as they do all those multiple stage controls for heating.
I ordered on so we'll see how it works.

sreigle · 12-22-2006, 02:48 PM

Orv, sounds like your filters are before the regulator. Mine is the opposite. So you may be correct at surmising that's the difference. I'll look into moving mine.

Ozzie, the unregulated pressure per management at the park where we are at right now is in excess of 100 psi. Judging by the way the water exits the spigot, I believe that is close. We've been in a few others where they have warned us of very high pressure. It's sure nice when washing the truck and the rig, though.

Ozzie · 12-22-2006, 02:53 PM

100 lbs...

Don't the toilets go ballistic at 80?

We seem to have the opposite up here in MN - I have yet to encounter high pressure. It sounds different down south?

c5racer · 12-22-2006, 04:21 PM

We have around 120 psi coming into our house, the city has a tank up on the hill. Use a pressure regulator just like Glen's set at 65 psi. The plumber installed it when the house was built.

SlickWillie · 12-23-2006, 02:07 AM

One of the regulator setups is definitely in our future. We're parked here at the home base for Christmas, and running on community water system pressure. (60 psi) I had one of those brass inline regulators that the rv places sell. I want to tear that thing apart and take a look at the inside of it. Seems to me it does no better than the gate valve would do. I notice when using it, you had good pressure when first turning the water on, then it would drop. That would indicate to me it is only an orfice that reduces pressure by reducing flow. Guess a pressure guage would be easier than tearing it down. I'll try it one day soon.

LonnieB · 12-23-2006, 02:29 AM

I must have led a sheltered life, as I've never lived or been anywhere that had water pressure over about 80 psi. How do these people keep their plumbing together?

Ozz · 12-23-2006, 02:49 AM

Mo pressure!!!! Give me lots of water pressure!!! I want to see them garden hoses bulge.......
PRV's are for sissys.

Glenn and Lorraine · 12-23-2006, 02:57 AM

In many CGs using wells or storage systems, the water pressure also has a lot to do with how close you are to the pump and the ID of the water lines. When we had our 9 unit motel we were on well water and I set the pressure just after the pump at 85 psi. Room 1 was first on the line and received 85 PSI but as you went down the line by the time you got to room 9 the pressure had dropped significantly. The same would apply at a CG. The closer you are to the source the higher the pressure.
Many CGs were built some time ago and used 3/4 or 1 inch ID galvanised pipe to supply the water to the sites. After a period of time these 1 inch galvanised pipes corroded down to 1/2 it's original size or less. This will reduce the volumn of water. It's also this corrosion that breaks off and becomes the sediment you find in your filters or faucets aerator screens. Better in the filter than the screens or in the human body.

ols1932 · 12-23-2006, 03:38 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Orv, sounds like your filters are before the regulator. Mine is the opposite. So you may be correct at surmising that's the difference. I'll look into moving mine.

Steve,
You're correct, mine are before the regulator. I did this upon the advice of the Water Filter Store. It protects the regulator. Some people think that they should protect the hose from the CG spigot. Water Filter Store says that the hoses are made to withstand the pressures from the CG spigots. That is, a good hose is. I have all my hoses in different lengths with brass fittings that will withstand up to 200 psi. Water Filter Store built them for me.

Orv

ols1932 · 12-23-2006, 03:42 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Ozzie

100 lbs...

Don't the toilets go ballistic at 80?

No, the water just swirls better and tends to clean the bowl better. Have to watch it however when you first hook up. The first time you flush the toilet the water will "spurt" due to the air in the line. Other than that everything is fine.

Orv

sreigle · 12-25-2006, 05:44 AM

Thanks, Orv. I think I'll reroute mine to be like yours. I use only ten foot hoses, each with quick connects, so I don't have to carry multiple sizes. With the quick connects it's quick and easy to put together the right number of hoses.

ols1932 · 12-25-2006, 06:09 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Thanks, Orv. I think I'll reroute mine to be like yours. I use only ten foot hoses, each with quick connects, so I don't have to carry multiple sizes. With the quick connects it's quick and easy to put together the right number of hoses.

I usually use as short a piece of hose as possible. I've got one 5', two 10', one 20', one 30' and one 50'. I've gotten these different lengths because of the different situations we've been in. The 5' piece goes from my regulator into the city water connection. I also use the quick disconnects everywhere but on the CG spigot. All my hoses are designed for drinking water. They are not garden hoses!

You'd be surprised (or maybe not) at the numbers of people I see out there using standard old garden hoses for their water--then they wonder why their water has such a bad taste!

Orv

Trailer Trash 2 · 12-27-2006, 05:11 PM

this is what I use from Lowes of Home Depot.it can be adjusted with the nut on top.

http://i17.tinypic.com/2itsvwo.jpg

ols1932 · 12-28-2006, 02:35 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Trailer Trash 2

this is what I use from Lowes of Home Depot.it can be adjusted with the nut on top.

Trailer Trash,
How do you tell how much pressure you have it adjusted to?

Orv

Ozz · 12-28-2006, 03:08 AM

Don, nice set up, I like the removable screen too.

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