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Old 08-16-2006, 07:38 AM   #1
jrgwdenner
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Phew! Mimf would be proud....

and I already am. We made a simple move from our temporary camping site to our more permanent site. When we went to open the slides, the front end of the LR/DR slide didn't move and we heard a loud pop. Hey, I thought we were going to miss those trees??? We missed the trees but it turned out that one of the pins holds the long shaft to the slide gear had snapped off. Now the good part. Glen was able to replace the pin with a large screw for a temporary fix until we can get a replacement bolt. The slide opened perfectly. It might be a good idea to carry some of these bolts in our supplies.

Judy
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:00 AM   #2
Ozz
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Good reaction to the problem.
I would get the proper pin to replace the one that broke as soon as possible. You are familiar with the shear pin in a lawn mower blade, it shears, and sacrifices the woodruff key to protect the drive shaft of the more expensive motor.
It is probable that this has the same function, whereas the torque on the shaft, when exceeding the design foot pounds, shears the pin, instead of burning the motor out, or damaging gearing.
There may be factors that are causing the slide to move out or in with too much force.
(Or, it could have just been a bad pin.)
I would have it checked out. There is probably a range of amperage of the motor under normal use, if it's binding, the amperage will be way above normal.
Good luck,
Ozz

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Old 08-16-2006, 10:36 AM   #3
richfaa
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Those shear pins are very inexpensive..We got them at Ace Hardware. There is a post from Dale telling us what to buy.

Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
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Old 08-16-2006, 12:49 PM   #4
RonS
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After installing a new pin, does it still open square?? Mine is now off by about 1/2 inch, going to wait and see what happens when it rains. But does come in and out with the new bolt. So for now all is well. Also now have a couple extra bolts on hand, the replacement is not as easy as it looks. Good luck!
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Old 08-16-2006, 01:11 PM   #5
MIMF2
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Judy,

I AM PROUD!!! I'm going to have all of you MOC members trained to be slide out techs!

The bolts you want to get standard hex head grade 8 bolts. The dimensions are 1/4-20 X 2". The ones now in the system are probably 1/4-20 X 1 1/4" or 1 1/2". Those proved to be too short. That is probably why they broke because, part of the threaded section is inside the cross shaft assembly. The threaded section is the weakest part of the bolt. By using the 2" long bolt, the threaded section of the bolt is not taking any stresses of the back and forth rotation of the cross shaft which acts like a scissors and eventually cuts the bolt.

RonS, that 1/2 inch difference should be ok.

Any one with more questions, give me a call. Or, attend the Rallies and I will demonstrate what I'm talking about.

Every body have a good evening,

Dale



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Old 08-16-2006, 01:47 PM   #6
Ozz
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Was this a bolt, or the rolled shaft pin? There is a small rolled shaft pin right next to the gear, then a bolt holding Two hex tubes together.
The Rolled steel shaft pin was what I thought we were talking about. I would think that would be the shear pin.
Maybe not.
Ozz

'07 3400RL 2nd RTU
2 Golf Cart batteries 3,000 watt inverter, automatic transfer switch
Honda 2000 Generator, 2nd one and twinning kit coming
Maytag's with 220 Dryer
Stationary domed Sat. dish
LCD 12 Volt Amp gauge
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:19 AM   #7
Iowafan
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It was a bolt that broke.

Glen

Traveling with Judy and our furry friend, Greta

2004 Montana 3380RL
2004 Dodge diesel dually
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Old 08-17-2006, 05:32 AM   #8
Ozz
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Oh, gotcha.
Ozz

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Honda 2000 Generator, 2nd one and twinning kit coming
Maytag's with 220 Dryer
Stationary domed Sat. dish
LCD 12 Volt Amp gauge
LCD Tank Monitor
3 added 120 volt outlets
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2006 Ford PSD 4x4 Off Road Lariat
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:36 AM   #9
sreigle
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I have some spares, thanks to Dale's constant preaching to me about this. I was glad to have them when we popped one when trying to leave Moab, UT, on an early Sunday morning. You won't find an open hardware store in Moab on a Sunday morning. And not at 8 a.m.

RonS, mine was off two or three inches. I tried adjusting but there wasn't enough adjustment. So I brought the slides in until one side was flush. Then I removed the shear pin, had Vicki bump the slide switch until the flush side was out the same amount as the other side. Bumped it just enough to get the holes lined up, then replaced the shear pin and we were fine. I had turned off the other slides at the manifold by the slide pump. Hope this helps.

Ron, it sounds like you could have someone bump the slide switch while you watch the square bar turn a quarter turn and align with the other hole, then reinsert the pin. It might take a half turn.

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Old 08-17-2006, 10:40 AM   #10
jrgwdenner
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Steve, you are a creative fixer upper. I think our slide is pretty even but we might need to follow your method of evening it when we move on Monday.

Judy
http://spaces.msn.com/bamatravelers/
http://bamatravelers.blogspot.com
Traveling with Glen and Greta in our 2004 Dodge dually and Montana 3380 RL

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Old 08-17-2006, 01:25 PM   #11
MIMF2
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Or judy, as long as it is not leaking rain water, we will fix it at the Rally.



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Old 08-17-2006, 01:52 PM   #12
Glenn and Lorraine
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Dale, how about stainless steel bolts or would they be too hard?


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Old 08-17-2006, 01:53 PM   #13
richfaa
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I am not sure but it looks as if we have the longer shear bolts on our 3400 slides..build date April 06..Dale..Did Lipppert change the bolts..I was thinking of changing out the shorter ones as a preventive measure

Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:23 PM   #14
MAMalody
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When lost a slide bolt I went and got the hardest one I could find and it would not fit. Tried a couple of them and find went back to the 8 for the fit.

Mike

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2003 3575RL
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Old 08-18-2006, 01:23 AM   #15
MIMF2
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OK Gang, Lesson for today.

For the first couple of years that we were producing slide systems, we were putting shorter 1/4-20 bolts in the cross shaft tubes. Now, they should be 1/4-20 X 2" zinc plated grade 8 hex head bolts. If the bolts in your cross shaft at both ends is 2" long and is yellow in color, you will be good. Zinc plating helps control corrosion.

An easy way to tell whether or not they are 2" long is.......to look at them. If you see about 1" of thread sticking out from one flat side of the cross shaft, that bolt is 2" long. You should also see that the ny-lok nut is seated against that side of the tube. On the opposite side of the square cross shaft tube from that thread, you should see or feel the hex head of that bolt.

Now, at the other end of the crosshaft tube, don't be alarmed if you see that 1" thread plus about 3/16" of the bolt shoulder with the nylok nut snugged up against that shoulder. That is because that small end of the cross shaft tube is approximately 3/4" square because, it slips inside the 1" square tube somewhere in the middle of your room or the two inner tubes that support the room.

Do I have you all confused?

I see where someone above was asking about the roll pin. Those are used to simply hold the gear pack assembly together in one piece. It goes thru the round shaft on each end or side of the roller cluster. Has nothing to do with hex head bolt except, they are in close proximity of each other.

Should anyone have any questions, come to a Rally. If reminded, I will be delighted to demonstrate what I am talking about here.

You all have good day! Gotta' get to work here.

Dale



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Old 08-18-2006, 01:27 AM   #16
MIMF2
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OH, ya.

Someone asked about stainless steel bolts. Might be OK but, too expensive. I wouldn't pay for them when you can achieve the same thing with the bolts I described above. Might be just a difference of a few pennies. Use those pennies for diesel fuel.

Sorry I missed this point.

Dale



2005 Silverado D/A LLY 3500 SRW EXT CAB
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Old 08-18-2006, 02:49 AM   #17
richfaa
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OK Dale If I read you correctly we have the longer shear pins in our unit....However..If I read yoiu right we DO NOT have the roll pins you describe that go through the round shaft on either side of the roller cluster....on any of the slides...There are holes in the round shaft but no pins...

Rich& Helen N.Ridgeville,Ohio.

F-350SD, Lariat, V-10,4:30 Diff, tow command Long bed, Crew Cab Dually, 06 3400RL
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by MIMF2

OH, ya.

Someone asked about stainless steel bolts. Might be OK but, too expensive. I wouldn't pay for them when you can achieve the same thing with the bolts I described above. Might be just a difference of a few pennies. Use those pennies for diesel fuel.

Sorry I missed this point.

Dale



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2005 Challenger 35RLQ "pimped" with all kinds of goodies
Trail Air LO5 pin-box
Front Hydraulic Landing Gear
Reese 16K double-pivot slider
Prodigy brake controller
Stainless bolts are softer than grade 8. why not go to Titanium ther dont rust either.

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Old 08-19-2006, 01:02 AM   #19
Glenn and Lorraine
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Quote:
quote:Someone asked about stainless steel bolts. Might be OK but, too expensive. I wouldn't pay for them when you can achieve the same thing with the bolts I described above. Might be just a difference of a few pennies. Use those pennies for diesel fuel.
--------------------------------------------------
Stainless bolts are softer than grade 8. why not go to Titanium ther dont rust either.
Thanks Dave and TT2. I happen to have a couple SS bolts and that was the reason for asking. Guess I'll get a couple grade 8s
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Old 08-19-2006, 04:26 AM   #20
jrgwdenner
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Well, I'm glad we had this problem so we could confuse you guys!

Judy
http://spaces.msn.com/bamatravelers/
http://bamatravelers.blogspot.com
Traveling with Glen and Greta in our 2004 Dodge dually and Montana 3380 RL
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