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09-25-2009, 02:25 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hanover
Posts: 335
M.O.C. #9710
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What Capacity Hitch to install.
We just purchased model 3665RE at the RV show in Hershey Pa last week. Since we're new to towing a fifth wheel I guess we'll need a truck, hitch and brake controller! Advise on any of the above will be greatly appreciated.
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09-25-2009, 02:40 AM
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#2
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Moab
Posts: 316
M.O.C. #6756
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now u can spend some serious money! I am sure many will respond with their own opinions and they will all be right! Just do it right the 1st time and save yourself more money. Keep us posted on your decisions. Have FUN
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09-25-2009, 03:18 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Ronan
Posts: 385
M.O.C. #7615
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Hitch wise there are many, I'm on my 3rd one and just love it as there are no slide rails in the truck bed. It is the B&W Companion 5th Wheel hitch
http://www.turnoverball.com/rv.asp#
Allen
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09-25-2009, 04:45 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: YUMA
Posts: 861
M.O.C. #2625
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09-25-2009, 06:11 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ardrossan
Posts: 729
M.O.C. #9261
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There are some great choices out there and especially ones that now mount under your box and eliminate those troublesome rails being either accross or parallel to the length of the box. We installed the B & W companion hitch that accommodates both goose and fifth wheel hook ups; and we love the set up. For the heavier 5th wheel weights of today you should get one that is at least a rating of 16,000 and preferably 18,000 lbs. Many to choose from and I am sure that with the one you choose members from this board can comment on the goods and the bads with their experiences on hitches. Enjoy your Monty!!
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09-25-2009, 07:29 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,155
M.O.C. #6433
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The 3665RE is listed as dry weight of about 12,300 with a carrying capacity (meaning any extra options + all your stuff) of a little over 3,000. So loaded to the max would put it at about 15,500. So you could get by with a 16k hitch.
I really like my Pullrite hitch. If you get a long bed truck, you will not need a slider hitch. If you get a short bed truck, you would be safer getting a slider.
Lots of stories about knocking out back windows with a short bed and a non-slider hitch. A good friend of mine did it.
Edit: I might add that my friend did not knock out his window with his Monty. It was with his previous 5er. The Montanas have contoured front caps to give a better turn radius. His other one had squared off front corners.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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09-25-2009, 09:00 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Waterford
Posts: 3,693
M.O.C. #7500
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I bought the Reese Signature 18K hitch. You can see pictures of our truck if you follow the link in my signature below. The big selling point for me was it can be removed in seconds and leaves no obstructions in the bed of the truck.
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09-25-2009, 10:12 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Weeki Wachee
Posts: 814
M.O.C. #7219
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We used a Reese 16K slider. One reason we like it is that it's a "rocker" and takes some of the sideways rocking and doesn't transfer it to the truck.
Hugh
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09-25-2009, 11:11 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lobelville
Posts: 2,128
M.O.C. #6650
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We have owned several different hitches. The B&W turnover ball with the Companion 5th wheel hitch was the best static hitch. The capacity was 18,000 lbs. It is a very safe hitch, and when removed the bed is clean and only needs a 4" hole not 4 holes. If you have a GM Trucks I will fit like a glove and you want have to drill holes. I have owned Reese, Huskey/Valley, B&W is the best for the money.
Now if you want to buy the best Air ride hitch you should buy a Trailer Saver Air Ride hitch. I have owned two Trailer Saver Air ride hitch. In your case I would recomend the Trailer Saver TS 3, 4,500 lb pin weight 20,000 lb capacity, it fits in most bed rails, example Reese, Valley/Huskey. And can be move from Truck to Truck, you should always insalled new bedrails and hardware when you upgrade to a new Truck. Research frame issues, such as Frame flex etc. Most all will have been using a Steel hitch. I know the Trailer Saver hitches are pricey but how much did you pay for the 5th wheel? I have no chucking or movement (search chucking) in my Trailer Saver system. I have a Trailer Saver TSLB2H 5,000 lb pin weight and 32,000 lb capacity. Good Luck with your choice, others have their opinion. My examples are from experience and yes thats my Opinions. GBY.......
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09-25-2009, 12:07 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,144
M.O.C. #1846
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JohnnyG: Welcome to the forum first of all. In my mind the first thing to decide is your truck -- you mention in your initial post that you need a truck, hitch, brake controller, etc., so sounds like you are coming in without one. I would recommend a 1 ton or bigger to begin with (single or dual rear wheel is a real preference type thing and you'll get many, many opinions on each). However, with a 3/4 ton (Ford F250, Chev/GMC 2500 or Dodge 2500) I think you'll find yourself butting up against the allowable weights of the tow vehicle. Many have them and do very well with them but if you are buying, you might as well get the bigger one to begin with. That will also give you the option, in a couple of years, of trading in your trailer for the next bigger and better one without having to worry so much about the tow vehicle.
Once you have the vehicle then you can decide which hitch. As mentioned, several are made where the mounting brackets are underneath the bed so that that you can remove the hitch itself and have a clean bed to work with in hauling / moving other stuff. I personally have the Reese 18K signature series and it has worked fantastically. I do wish I had a gooseneck ball at times but that is another story. One other thing is that some folks also have the 'TrailerSaver' hitch -- this is a more expensive hitch but it has airbags that help keep the bouncing and road hits from transfering to the trailer. With the MDT (Medium Duty trucks like the Freightliner M2, big 3's 4500 and above) I don't think I've ever seen anything other than the TrailerSaver installed on those.
Finally, for brake controllers - many of us use the Prodigy line with excellent results.
Regardless of what you end up with, this forum has some great contributers with a vast wealth of information. Again, welcome aboard and enjoy your camper!!
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09-25-2009, 01:47 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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I also have the TrailerSaver hitch manufactured by Hensley Mfg. Great hitch, but expensive. But as was noted, how much does the RV cost you? Consider that a lot of hitches need extra equipment on the rig to avoid chucking or porpoising, bouncing, etc. My experience from nine years of full timing with our rig has shown that the money we spent for the hitch and all the mods we've added to the Montana has been well worth it.
Orv
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09-25-2009, 02:16 PM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Casa Grande
Posts: 5,369
M.O.C. #6333
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I also have the TrailerSaver hitch manufactured by Hensley Mfg. Great hitch, but expensive. But as was noted, how much does the RV cost you? Consider that a lot of hitches need extra equipment on the rig to avoid chucking or porpoising, bouncing, etc. My experience from three years of full timing with our rig has shown that the money we spent for the hitch and all the mods we've added to the Montana has been well worth it. We are fulltiming and expect to keep our rig for many years and we felt the TrailerSaver hitch will give us many years of service and help protect the trailer and its contents.
I would definitely recommend a one ton, or larger truck. Dual wheels or single wheels is a personal choice. We use ours as our daily driver and sometimes I wish we had the single wheels, but you DO get used to the larger footprint of the dually. Many of the newer trucks come with a factory installed brake controller which works fine. We had to install a Prodigy as our OEM controller would not operate our Kodiak (after market add-on) disc brakes. No big deal, works fine.
Don't make the mistake of buying a truck too small for your load. You must familiarize yourself with all the weights involved with your trailer and truck and then buy accordingly.
IF you go with a short bed truck, you will probably want a hitch that slides. The automatic hitches, like the Pullright Superglide, are said to be among the best, but others may have a better solution also.
The MorRyde hitch pin, attached to the trailer, has proven to be a very good pin and many folks have one, in fact, you may have gotten one on your new trailer.
Feel free to ask more questions if we haven't covered everything. AND "Welcome to the Best Darned Forum on the WWW!!!!!!"
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09-25-2009, 03:43 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lobelville
Posts: 2,128
M.O.C. #6650
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I believe Trailer Saver has a slider hitch also. GBY........
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09-28-2009, 04:01 AM
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#14
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hanover
Posts: 335
M.O.C. #9710
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First I want to thank everyone for the friendly welcome.
We haven't purchased the truck or hitch yet but have now narowed it down to 350 / 3500 single wheel (doesn't look like I can get Jodi to drive a dually) and 18k + hitch. Will keep you posted.
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09-28-2009, 05:34 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Port Orchard
Posts: 1,153
M.O.C. #3403
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We sure like out Hijacker hitch, and love our F350 PSD SRW truck. Good luck with your selection.
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