Amana Stove

[Lenny K]

We are really not impressed with the two back burners that you have to turn towards the off position to get a low flame. Too low and the flame goes out.
Has anyone replaced theirs to get rid of this irritation?

[Art-n-Marge]

Seems like your stove might have to be adjusted so when on low there is more propane flowing or maybe there is a current propane flow problem. I have read in the past that naturally occurring oil-like fluid in the propane lines can hinder flow.

Or the stove is messed up and needs fixin'.

[Lenny K]

quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

Seems like your stove might have to be adjusted so when on low there is more propane flowing or maybe there is a current propane flow problem. I have read in the past that naturally occurring oil-like fluid in the propane lines can hinder flow.

Or the stove is messed up and needs fixin'.

You probably do not have the Amana stove in your trailer or you would know what I was talking about. There is no place to stop to get a low flame. You have to keep on turning to the off position and hope that you stop at the lowest flame possible before you turn it off. You then have to relight and try all over again.

[Lenny K]

Nobody else have an Amana stove that has the same flame control setup as ours?

[Art-n-Marge]

I have a Magic Chef and the two rear burners operate like you mention. Rotate the burner knob fully in the clockwise position to the "light" position, then rotate a separate lighter knob for the igniter, then the flame starts up on High. Then one rotates the knob in the counterclockwise position until the flame lowers and must manually stop before turning off the burner. This appears to be the procedure you describe, Maybe you can use some kind of paint or mark at the burner knob to denote the lowest setting before the flame goes out.

On my rangetop, the single Low Flame capable burner in the front center starts differently in that the first setting is the Light Position after a very brief clockwise rotation and after it lights in the High position, continue to rotate in the clockwise position to lower the flame until the knob stops and the flame remains lit in a low setting. You don't mention any other burners. Do any of your other burners operate this way?

I have asked appliance Sales folks in the past why all burners don't operate this way such that this feature is available on all burners and was told long ago, that besides cost (apparently this style burner set is more expensive for the manufacturer) there is an apparent safety issue, as well. Something about the flame is so low that there's a chance that the flame can go out due to any breeze (indoors, huh?) and then you have slowly leaking propane (or gas for a gas range) and thereby a potential hazard since the flow is so low and not as detectable but just as dangerous. They'd rather have this potential problem on only one burner than all of them. I accepted it and just use manual control of the non-low settable burners and monitor it to ensure is remains lit. No problems so far, but it certainly is not convenient.

Good luck finding a long term solution. It might start with trying to replace the control knobs for the rear burners, if they are available. I don't know what else is needed. Otherwise, like me, you try and live with it.

[Lenny K]

So the Magic Chef works that way also. My front burner works as you described Art.Interesting what the salesman told you.

This is the first stove that we've that works that way. Wish I could remember the make in our other trailers. Even the Cougar we owned at one time had better than this.

Guess we'll suck it up for awhile until it really gets on my nerves....lol

[rohrmann]

We have the Amana, and it is exactly the same way. We have gotten used to it, so it works for us. The only thing I would consider, when we get around the forum members that can do this, is have an igniter set up to light the oven, although, since getting a new hip last year, it is much easier, but still a hassle.

[jlb27537]

My stove burners used to go off when turned to low. My furnace sometimes would not light. So in the process of fixing the furnace, we discovered we only had about 8.5" of LP pressure. Adjusted the regulator on the switch-over thingy and now have 10.5" with the furnace running and now the stove has a nice blue flame on low.

My suggestion is to check your LP pressure before you do anything.

Jim

[Art-n-Marge]

Good going on the fix jlb27537 because sometimes propane line pressure is at fault. However, if you don't mind a little correction, you should have typed 8.5# or 10.5# versus 8.5" or 10.5" (pounds versus inches). I've been known to use 12", to 36" lines with success so it ain't the inches. In this case size doesn't matter. I'll stop now.

[rohrmann]

Actually, inches WC is the proper measurement for appliance gas pressure. Gas, both natural and LP (propane) for delivery at the appliances, is measured in inches water column, and should be checked using a manometer, which reads out in inches of water column.

[WeBeFulltime]

How does one go about checking and/or adjusting the line pressure?

[jlb27537]

quote:Originally posted by WeBeFulltime

How does one go about checking and/or adjusting the line pressure?

David, first the pressure is in inches of water column. NOT pounds. I believe I typed it correctly.

I bought a pressure gauge off Ebay. The fitting the hose connects to is a screw in fitting on most gas valves. Look at the gas valve on your furnace, you will see a small slotted screw or a allen head plug. The fitting screws in there to check pressure.

To adjust the pressure, my switch-over regulator thing, has a black plastic cap that unscrews. Under it is a spring with a slotted piece that sets spring pressure. Turn it with a screwdriver while watching pressure gauge. Under ideal conditions you want 11" WC with the appliance burning.

Note. 11"WC is about .397 lbs of pressure.

Think I bought a used one for about $25 off Ebay. This listing is for a expensive one, but they all work.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hv...7NDhoCRQrw_wcB

Jim

[Leftie Canuk]

We too have the Amana stove, and the rear grommet holes on the stove top that covers the burners appear to have been worried larger such that grommets drop too low to keep the burner rack level.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with the enlarged holes and lack of level on the burner rack ? So far, I have been shimming the back corners with some stainless fender washers on top of the grommets. Any ideas welcomed !