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Old 02-15-2019, 01:12 PM   #1
ingalmi
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Question 3921FB Residential Frig

I have a 2017 Monty 3921FB with a Samsung residential frig that operates from an inverter or utility power. All function normally however I've discovered that the output of the transfer switch to the frig does not go to a circuit breaker in the distribution panel. The only way to completely kill power to the frig is to turn off the inverter and disconnect from utility power. Sure seems as though a major appliance should have a circuit breaker protection (15amp)? Anyone out there have any info? All the other appliances are on circuit breakers i.e. washer, dryer, fireplace, A/C units, etc.
 
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Old 02-15-2019, 01:46 PM   #2
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Mike,
I have a 2015 3611 with Res. Fridge and 1000 w inverter. There is a breaker switch in the distribution panel that feeds the transfer switch in the inverter with shore power.
Also, the inverter has internal protection plus there is a fuse on the DC input to the inverter. So, your fridge is pretty well protected.
When I need to remove power from the fridge, I can unplug it in the basement next to the inverter.
Your newer rig may have additional GFI outlets in the kitchen that are fed from the inverter.
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Old 02-15-2019, 02:11 PM   #3
ingalmi
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Thanks for the quick response! Interestingly I do not have a circuit breaker in the distribution panel that supplies the power transfer switch. I can turn off the inverter or disconnect it as you said which removes any inverter power to the transfer switch but the only way to remove utility/shore power to the transfer switch is disconnect from the utility source/campground supply. It's a fairly long wire run from the transfer switch in the basement to the frig which on the kitchen slide out. Just thought there would have been circuit protection for that wire run.
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Old 02-15-2019, 03:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ingalmi View Post
Thanks for the quick response! Interestingly I do not have a circuit breaker in the distribution panel that supplies the power transfer switch. I can turn off the inverter or disconnect it as you said which removes any inverter power to the transfer switch but the only way to remove utility/shore power to the transfer switch is disconnect from the utility source/campground supply. It's a fairly long wire run from the transfer switch in the basement to the frig which on the kitchen slide out. Just thought there would have been circuit protection for that wire run.
You are going to make me look, but I doubt the shore power of transfer switch does not come off of the breaker panel. That would mean it ties directly to the in coming 50 Amp power.
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:08 AM   #5
ingalmi
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So just finished an online chat with the folks at Montana regarding circuit protection. The short answer is it’s not protected. You have to kill both the inverter and the 50 amp power source!
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Old 02-18-2019, 11:01 AM   #6
jcurtis934
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Let's hope that you spoke to someone that doesn't understand power systems, which is very probable. The shore power side of the transfer switch should go to a breaker in the panel to meet various regulations.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:10 PM   #7
ingalmi
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You would think however, if I turn off the inverter and place all of the breakers in the power panel to open/off except the 2 50 amp mains the refrigerator is still on. Not a good sign, the A/C utility source seems to go directly to the inverter transfer switch and the output from the transfer switch seems to go directly to the frig instead of going to a 15 amp breaker first.
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Old 02-22-2019, 12:55 PM   #8
ingalmi
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Well just found my problem, the frig circuit was installed on the wrong terminal in the power panel. Imagine that!
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:08 PM   #9
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Well just found my problem, the frig circuit was installed on the wrong terminal in the power panel. Imagine that!
No Way!! couldn't be!! Don't believe it!!
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:38 PM   #10
Randy E
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Res fridge.

Hi.
On our 2017 3791RD. The inverter in the basement needs turned off first. Then once it’s off I flip the breaker in the panel inside. If I flip the breaker first, the fridg will switch to 12 volt automatically and will not turn off, making you think there is no switch. Too bad it took me all summer to figure that out.

Just be sure to leave the converter on so your batteries stay charged up while in storage.

Best of luck.
Randy.
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Old 02-27-2019, 03:44 PM   #11
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Residental Samsung Refrigerator FB3920

Now you two are really confusing me. So when I have the batteries active and hooked up and the trailer is sitting at the dealer for service for 4+ weeks, I should do what? Unplug the refer from the backside of the inverter? I did this once and had enough of a parasitic leak to deaden the batteries. Also, there are 2 battery shutoffs - one in the outside convenience center and the other above the batteries. Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:46 PM   #12
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Now you two are really confusing me. So when I have the batteries active and hooked up and the trailer is sitting at the dealer for service for 4+ weeks, I should do what? Unplug the refer from the backside of the inverter? I did this once and had enough of a parasitic leak to deaden the batteries. Also, there are 2 battery shutoffs - one in the outside convenience center and the other above the batteries. Thanks.
If you are leaving the RV at the dealer's for weeks on end either they supply power to it for you (not likely) or you have to protect yourself. First turn off the shutoff to the inverter in the front compartment. Next disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. This way you eliminate all parasitic 12V loads. Of course your dealer will have to connect the negative cable if 12V work is required, but they should be able to figure that out. On second thought, better to tell them and even put a sign on the door saying what you have done.
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:25 AM   #13
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Wow, just realized why my battery always goes dead at the dealer. Since I keep it plugged in at home I do not normally bother with the inverter but now see I should shut it off when going to dealer for spring check up. This forum has helped me so.
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