How to level your Monty ? - Montana Owners Club

Bluegill · 10-29-2006, 06:13 PM

Okay, If you were me. How would you level my Monty ?

I know everyone may have their own way of leveling. But I need to learn something here. Cuz I know NOTHING.
I have seen the little "Torpedo Type" levels that mount on the kingpin... Do those work? and if so.. How?

Would it be best to have a 4' long level and set it on the floor in different places and possibly on the kitchen counter?

Has this topic already been beat to death? and if so, where could I find it?

Thanks for any and all help.

Blue

JH Sechelt · 10-29-2006, 06:43 PM

Hi Blue.

To level side to side I use a couple of 5' 2 X 10's (I keep in the truck box).
a)You can start by putting one wheel on the plank.
b) both wheels on the plank.
c) one wheel on one plank and the other on two planks.... You get the picture.
The two planks give you 4 different hight settings.
Front to back.... just use the front jacks.
I have the little level indicators One Behind the ladder at the back. DW is usually back there guiding me into the site. she can see right away if we are level. (put it behind the ladder so it wouldn't get bumped). I have the front to back one attached to the Aluminum floor stringer just inside the door where the rocker switch is to lower & raise the front landing gear.
We always check the floor inside the door with a 6" torpedo level before calling it quits.

"phew" that was like writing a book

.

J&D

ronnilu · 10-29-2006, 07:03 PM

Hi James - we've been rv'ing since the 60's & have always obtained a level reading for the refrigerator before doing anything else. Go get a little square bubble level at any rv supplier, place it in the center of the refrigerator freezer compartment, then do whatever it takes to get to the place where that bubble is exactly centered -front to back and side to side. (Read your owners manual for the necessity of getting your refrigerator level). When you have that in place you can mount either stick-on or permanent mount levels on the side & front of your rig. This way when leveling in the future the only reference you have to make is with these outside levels. I occasionally re-check them against the level in the freezer compartment to make sure they haven't "drifted" off true. After that, there are probably as many different preferences for leveling the rig as there are MOC members. Some prefer to use wooden blocks, others like the plastic locking leveling blocks. I use both or one or the other depending on how far off level I am. But, I always level from side to side first while hooked up to my truck so I can pull up or back onto the levelers. After unhooking it's then a simple matter of raising or lowering the kinpin to get my front to back level. Hope I haven't strayed too far from what you were asking. Mike

padredw · 10-30-2006, 02:19 AM

First thing I do on entering a campsite (before unhooking) is to check the level (right/left) with a little torpedo level. Since we have a 2955 with rear door, I can keep the level in a small tool basket I keep under the cabinet, which I can reach by opening the entry door and reaching in. I can very quickly see what correction may be needed and do that before unhooking. As for the fore/aft level I have a little level mounted in the compartment where the landing leg operating switch is located.

As for correction of level, I use 2X6 boards which I cut from scrap and painted; cut to various lengths. I can back up or pull up on these boards depending on the exact site where we are setting up.

Slight correction: one board under one wheel on the low side. More: a board under each wheel on low side. A few times: 2 or more boards under wheels on low side. It does not have to be more precise than this.

I think you can be a bit relaxed about all this. The modern refrigerators are not nearly so sensitive as the older ones were. We've never had any difficulty over 8 years (Jayco and Montana) and many thousands of miles. My own sensitivity is NEVER to have my head lower than my feet when sleeping.

lightningjack11 · 10-30-2006, 02:57 AM

I have a "Hoppy" level mounted on my pin box and I can see it in the rear view mirror.

I pull in to the site for best side to side level. I use 2x6 under the low tires if necessary.

I extend my jacks but I alway extend with the same abmount of holes on both sides and then put boards under the jack petals.

Extend the jacks and disconnect.

I have two levels for front to back leveling. The first is to level the unit. The second I use to raise the trailer for connecting back to the truck. Cuts guesswork.

-------------

Sometimes you will find that the site slopes upward. So I extend the jacks down a few inches before droping the petals. This will allow you to get the front of the trailer lower for leveling. In this case make sure the truck is clear or you will lower the trailer right on the the truck rails. Don't ask me how I know this.

bsmeaton · 10-30-2006, 03:06 AM

Blue,

Those big torpedo type levels you put on the kingpin are great, as you can see them from the cab and back over your blocks to the precise point you want. I haven't installed one on this unit, as I keep saying to myself the kingpin is getting replaced with a different type. We carry a bag of 10 little stackable blocks from CW that we use to adjust the level from side to side.

I mounted a stickable bubble level right near the hatch where the landing gear button is for front to back leveling.

REMEMBER - If you had to compensate for level by putting blocks under your tires, you most likely will have to also compensate for the same under your landing gear - either by adding blocks to one side or adjusting the length of the gear on one side. You want the feet to hit the ground pretty close to the same time or you will put a twist on the Monty.

lightningjack11 · 10-30-2006, 03:26 AM

If you look real close in my photo you can see the Hoppy level on the pin box. It is non evasive. A plywood box was cut to fit and mounted with paintable sealant. The Hoppy is mounted on the box.

I prefer the cheaper water filled Hoppy over the more expensive oil filled models. The reason is the water filled reacts to level changes faster. It is easy to replace when it becomes ragged. Runs about 10 bucks.

Dee · 10-30-2006, 03:36 AM

Very interesting topic, we are currently awaiting delivery of our 3295 RK. As long as we are on this topic let me ask this leveling question.
Our current rig a 2000 Alpha Ideal I can level side to side right on the money, however then when I put the slideouts out (both on the left side) the suspenson drops enough on that side that it needs to be re leveled.
So In the last few years I adjust for about an inch high on the slideout side then when they are out we are level.
Do you folks with the Montana's notice this?
Or is this an Alpha problem only? Rig before Alpha was a Hitchhiker and it did not do it?
Hopefully just a Alpha problem?

bsmeaton · 10-30-2006, 03:44 AM

I can only speak for myself - but once I set the stabilizer jacks, the slides don't effect the side to side level. However, my slides are only carrying furniture and the bed - not sure how the kitchen slides impact the level.

Tom - I noticed CW has a Hoppy level with the pin box brackets! I didn't know there was a oil and water filled type - guess I would need the oil for freeze out here.

Brad

Fordzilla · 10-30-2006, 05:36 AM

I have a hoppy level mounted to the kingpin box for side to side adjustments while backing into the site. Then I mounted a smaller level inside to the aluminum framework inside the storage area where the switch for the landing gear is located. Keeps it out of the weather and is easy to read while standing there running the legs down or back up after puling the truck away. I carried a 4' level around the first few weekends to make sure the levels mounted on the sides and king pin were dead on with what the kitchen floor was and after I felt confident that they were adjusted to the right spot I quit bringing the 4' level along.

mallardjusted · 10-30-2006, 06:01 AM

Dee - per your question; yes, we have the same thing happen. I always error a little (1/4 bubble) on our slide-out side, knowing it will change slightly when they are out. For those that have slides on both sides of the unit it probably doesn't matter as much.

For levels, I glued one above the front storage door for left-to-right leveling, and installed one of the long, big ones in my left storage compartment right by the grey and black water dump handles.

lightningjack11 · 10-30-2006, 06:06 AM

Never a problem with mine. Although I do have a smaller unit.

ols1932 · 10-30-2006, 06:27 AM

I would caution using 2X6's under the tires. Anything used under the tires should be at least as wide as the tire tread. Otherwise there is what is referred to as tread strain if any of the tread is hanging over the edges of the 2X6's. I know many people use 'em but it's not the best.
The same goes for parking the rig right on the front or back edge of any type board. Don't stress the tread. It's not bad if you're just overnight, but for long time parking I would advise that the tires be properly situated on any board. There will probably be a lot of disagreement with this but if you attend any tire care seminars you'll find out the same thing that I did.

Orv

DonPd · 10-30-2006, 07:07 AM

I can't see the Hopper or I don't know what to look for, because I don't know what a Hopper is. A picture would be good.

Lije Baley · 10-30-2006, 07:27 AM

I think the Level Master levels are great on the pinbox. Each mark indicates an inch of leveling is needed. You can see from the cab how much you'll need to raise the lower side. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...t/skunum=30939

Another useful level is the memory model. You can place it by the cargo doors near the switch for the landing gear. Before you begin leveling front to back, placing the slider over the bubble allows you to return the bubble to that spot and be at the proper height to connect with the hitch. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...y/skunum=15718

bsmeaton · 10-30-2006, 07:51 AM

Ooops Bill - I thought that was the Hoppy - thats the one I was talking about that mounts to the pin box from CW.

Bluegill · 10-30-2006, 08:21 AM

Ask... and you shall receive.

Man, Thanks guys. It would take me all day to thank each and every one of you.
This kind of info is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Each one of you had some info I can take with me.

I saw the Lego looking blocks @ CW yesterday and was wondering how many packages I would need. It looks like two would do the trick.
For now I guess I will use my Torpedo level to get me by. I like the Hoppy Level idea, I saw those too.

Again, Thanks for telling me all your secrets.
Stay tuned for more exciting action from the "Bluegill Camping Follies"

I may run by Lowes tonight and check pricing on a 2"x8".

bsmeaton · 10-30-2006, 08:39 AM

Blue -
I only picked up one of the 10 piece leggo blocks and I've never run out. However, I've never had to really compensate for a big slope either, as most RV parks are reasonably level.

Brad

Bluegill · 10-30-2006, 08:43 AM

ahhhhh... that would save me about $30.00

Good to know.

Mudchief · 10-30-2006, 08:58 AM

Blue, when I get a new unit i use a carpenter level to level the unit front to back and side to side. I check it in a lot of locations and when i am sure the unit is level I then install a level master like Bill talked above on the king pin. Then when you are parking it is easy to look in the mirror to see how far off it is. Each mark means you need about 1 inch under the tires on that side. Sometimes by moving around on the spot a little that you don't need to put anything under the tires.

You may also like: