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Old 02-17-2013, 09:52 AM   #1
Ski Doo
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Electrical

Howdy and thanks in advance for all help.

Not plugged in to shore power.
No power in camper.
12.7 @ battery
The black lead goes to a (splitter?) and then up to a block
with three studs. Center is feed and has voltage, outside
studs that go to hydraulic motor and camper have no voltage.
Ground feeds into a center stud in front of block and has(continuity?) at spade terminals at outside.
This block is riveted closed. What is it? Is this my problem?
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:08 AM   #2
bncinwv
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I believe it is your autoreset breaker and should have no impact on 12V feed to your rig. My first suggestion is to verify that the battery disconnect in your convenience center is not engaged.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:03 AM   #3
Ski Doo
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Thanks Bingo.

The switch says battery disconnect
and the (wing) of the key is in the on position.
That is horizontal, is that correct?

Thanks Jack
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:06 AM   #4
bncinwv
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I never can remember, what I always do is to use the convenience center or basement light for the indicator. Turn the light on, turn key, repeat until light comes on, then you are sure there is DC power to the rig.
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On edit: I think on ours ON means it is engaged, seems backwards to me, but it is what it is.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:16 AM   #5
Ski Doo
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I just tried it in both positions, and still no entrance light in camper in either position. Not even power to tank/battery gauge.

Plug into shore power and every thing reads fine.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:35 AM   #6
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Sounds like you have to be open between your hot from the battery and your 12V distribution center. I'm just not familiar enough with the wiring as to where it runs and where it is fused to help you much. I'd first insure that the battery disconnect switch is not the problem. If you can get to the back of it try jumpering across it or use your vom to insure continuity. Short of that I'd try following it visually. Jim
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:46 AM   #7
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Bingo, I agree with you--I marked my Battery Disconnect switch with Connected and Disconnected! "ON" for disconnect is confusing! Anyway--hope Jimcol gets the power back on.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:09 PM   #8
7.3Ford
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When the Key is horizontal DC Power is on (Key can not be removed when on). Picture is in the ON position.



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Old 02-17-2013, 12:46 PM   #9
bncinwv
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John's post is exactly why I use the light to see when the power is on. I would wager three Amish Craftsmen that some rigs are wired one way and some rigs the other! As Jimcol said, you need to check that the disconnect switch is working properly if you are sure that the DC power is not working in either position. After that, I would have to defer to more knowledgeable electrical gurus.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:41 PM   #10
RonD
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I would start the trouble shooting with first testing the battery, then put a charger on it, 12.7 volts is low, it should be 13.4 or higher. Then I would start testing for 12v power with the battery, then just follow the cables and re test at every connection with a volt meter, or a test light, also make sure your primary ground is good, this should not take that long to find the connection problem, best of luck.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Ski Doo

Howdy and thanks in advance for all help.

Not plugged in to shore power.
No power in camper.
12.7 @ battery
The black lead goes to a (splitter?) and then up to a block
with three studs. Center is feed and has voltage, outside
studs that go to hydraulic motor and camper have no voltage.
Ground feeds into a center stud in front of block and has(continuity?) at spade terminals at outside.
This block is riveted closed. What is it? Is this my problem?
You say the black lead goes into a splitter (note: on the Montanas they do use the black as the hot 12vdc and white as the ground). The black to the block with three studs (sounds to me like your up or down/in or out for your hydraulics) and not your problem.
Where do the other leads off the splitter go. I agree with others I think you have a bad "resetable" breaker that feed your 12vdc switch in the convenience center. The resetable breaker should have red rubber covers and it should have a metal silver/aluminum body with two studs out and the 12vdc wire. One side should read your 12.7 and so should the other if it does not then that breaker (auto rest) is bad. Normally these are mounted on the back wall on the right hand side.
Sorry that is the best I can do.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:59 PM   #12
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Don't know how the newer ones are wired, but on my '07 there are two auto reset circuit breakers. One supplies power to the slide pump, the other supplies power to the rest of the trailer. See picture.
But both of these only have two terminals. The only thing in mine that has three terminals is the block on top of the slide pump.
Is yours anything like this?
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:27 PM   #13
Ski Doo
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by BB_TX

Don't know how the newer ones are wired, but on my '07 there are two auto reset circuit breakers. One supplies power to the slide pump, the other supplies power to the rest of the trailer. See picture.
But both of these only have two terminals. The only thing in mine that has three terminals is the block on top of the slide pump.
Is yours anything like this?
Hi BB
After leaving the red capped block on the right, the power goes to the center stud on a 3 studded (block) mounted to the right looking at it. Power gets to center stud, but does not exit on two outside studs.
Thanks to all for their help. It's 15 ouside and blowing about 40mph so my interest is fading for tonight. But will have at it tomorrow.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:49 PM   #14
hookman
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On ours the auto breaker failed and we were dry camping with no 12 volt I hooked up the truck we had power. At home I was checking the wires and heard a clicking as I wiggled the wire that went back under the floor and as i wiggled it the lights went on and off so I changed the breaker and no more trouble. The black wire goes back under the trailer where the main power Cable comes into the battery area.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:59 PM   #15
Ski Doo
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Don, my guess is the "auto breaker", also. That seems to be the last place that power
Is behaving properly. (On the feed stud)
I will try to check mine out today.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:17 AM   #16
Ski Doo
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A call to my dealer and said to press reset buttons on breakers, none to be found.
Took out 25 amp fuses on power panel to check for a bad one, none found, replaced them, and .......... a green panel light came on and the interior lights came on.
All seems to be working fine now.

Thanks to all for your help.
Jack
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:42 AM   #17
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Things to ponder... BB_TX, on my rig the breakers are for the landing gear and the other is for the slideout motor (now I have three because I use dual parallel breakers for the slider to prevent the well know start/stop problem and the dual solution was less expensive than replacing the single breaker at the time).

Funny how we blame the Amish for these weirdball problems. I blame Americans (they call us "English"). Amish don't even like electricity and everything they know they were taught by us "English" people. So let's blame the English, sometimes we can't understand their accent anyway.

The problem he is describing sounds like a fuse which he replaced per another topic. What I don't understand is he implied they were good but he replaced them anyway. I hate when that happens. This fuse buzzing-out-as-good-but-was-bad-anyway happened to me once. And another time a circuit breaker that buzzed out good needed replacing anyway happened to me as well. What's up when you expect a fuse or breaker to "break" and they don't but then don't work? Gotta love the convenience of technology except when it becomes the problem, eh?
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