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Old 03-14-2017, 12:06 PM   #1
Bochim
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M.O.C. #19041
Need help

2010 Montana 29rdk. Has plumbing for w/d at front in master bedroom closet. Have leak below either hot or cold valve probably where 1/2" flex joins valve. This is not readily accessable. Any ideas welcome. We do not use this plumbing and the easiest fix would be to cap it off. Where can I get a cap (pipe is visible in basement ) to do this. Thanks.
 
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:14 PM   #2
Simpson9508
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You can get a shark bite cap at any big box home store. You can then cut the pex tubing in the basement and push the cap into the tubing to cap it off. I believe that it is 1/2" pex but I am not positive and don't have my trailer here to measure it.
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Old 03-14-2017, 01:50 PM   #3
Razrbk
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Might consider a shut off valve rather than a cap....
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:40 PM   #4
shovelhead86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bochim View Post
2010 Montana 29rdk. Has plumbing for w/d at front in master bedroom closet. Have leak below either hot or cold valve probably where 1/2" flex joins valve. This is not readily accessable. Any ideas welcome. We do not use this plumbing and the easiest fix would be to cap it off. Where can I get a cap (pipe is visible in basement ) to do this. Thanks.
When you cut the pex tubing, cut off a small piece and take it to any decent hardware store and tell them what you want to do. Buy a sharks bite fitting ( it does not require any tools) and either install a cap or a shut off valve. A shut off valve might be the best option after thinking about freeze proofing. It would allow antifreeze to go through. A cap may trap water that could freeze.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:06 PM   #5
swanny
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I replaced my black tank by myself. So my first word of advice, get some help. It's not hard just awkward. You will need two new flanges and ABS glue. First make sure tank is M/T!! Remove the underbelly and set aside. Undo the clean out connection, tank level wires and the tank exit valve. Next remove the basement wall the gain access to the toilet inlet pipe and vent pipe. Use a sawzall to cut both pipes at a workable VERTICAL location. Now that everything is unhooked you can drop the tank. There are two channel stock holding the tank in place. The tank flanges sit on top of the mounts. You only need to remove one mount. At this point the tank should be on top of you. Stay away from the tank exit port! Now you need to install the new tank and the support bracket you removed. No need to tighten, just to hold tank in place. Now align and snug up exit pipe and valve to the tank. This is the position of the tank when installation is finished. You will need two pieces of cardboard, I used a side of a 30 pack, works great. Cut a piece long enough and wide enough to wrap around the toilet exit pipe and to reach the top of the new tank. Keep the pipe and cardboard in the center of the manufactures holes. Now just trace around the cardboard onto the top of the tank with a sharpie. Do the same with the vent pipe. Remove the tank and cut the holes to size, "size to fit flange you already bought". Remember I mentioned a 30 pack, if you have a few it might be easier to cut the holes. So, holes are cut, now to mount the flanges. Clean both flanges and top of tank where you cut the holes. From the old tank shave a bunch of ABS to add to some of the glue you bought. In a glass or metal container mix a bunch of ABS material with the ABS glue and make a slurry. It will be kind of thick. With a brush slather this mixture around the hole opening and the flange. Seat the flange and turn it a few times and keep it centered over the hole. Finish by slathering more around the outside of the flange and top of the tank. I used a small weight to hold down and in place. I let this set for 24 hours, just because. Now reinstall the tank and tighten everything up. Measure for the new pieces of pipe, toilet and vent. Measure from inside flange seat to were you cut the original pipes. Glue in place and use a furnco to couple the pipes together.
At this point I added strapping under my tank for added support. I drilled 4 hole on each side of the tank in the metal mounting brackets and fastened eye bolts. I then used very strong flat braided nylon rope from one side to the other. I only made then snug to the bottom of the tank to help support a heavy tank. Now you can try it out, fill and empty the tank a few times. While the underbelly is off look around and you'll find other thing you can fix or improve on. IMO the hardest part is next, reinstalling the underbelly, but as I said , I did it by myself.

kevin
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Old 04-02-2017, 05:47 AM   #6
Ishler
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Along the lines as Simpson9508 I went into the wall behind the Convenience center and replaced the "Ts" that fed the W/D with "Ls". Home Depot or Lowes had the same fittings. I taped the old fittings to the lines in case anyone wanted to restore them in the future. Incidentally I didn't do this for a leak but rather a bad taste and smell in the water from water that got stuck in those lines.
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:11 AM   #7
Mudchief
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On our unit I cut the lines drained the lines then added a shark bite to each line. Then on the empty lines I taped them closed so bugs would not get into the lines in case I later wanted to add a washer.
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