Jack for Changing Tires on the Montana - Montana Owners Club

Rudi and Ellen · 10-06-2005, 04:54 PM

What Kind of a jack do you folks use for changing a tire on the Montana. Where is the best place to position the jack?

FredG · 10-06-2005, 05:03 PM

I haven't had to use it yet, but we carry a 12 ton bottle jack in the truck toolbox. The only reason I went with a bottle jack is size and convenience. If I ever have to jack up the unit, I would make sure to get a jackstand or at least a stack of blocks as a safety in case the bottle jack loses pressure.

For positioning the jack, I believe that is described in the owner's manual from Montana. I personally would jack on a nearby frame point. Especially considering that is what Dexter recommends on their website:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/faq_s#32

Fred

jrgwdenner · 10-06-2005, 06:11 PM

Glen recently changed out one of our tires and used the jack from our Dodge Ram. He positioned it under the axle of the tire he was changing, lifting on the axle, not the trailer frame.

Montana Sky · 10-06-2005, 06:41 PM

I cheated, for $450 for seven years I bought the roadside service coverage. There is no fee and I can use it as many times as I need to. Not only for the coach but for the boat, and truck as well. Since I have bad shoulders now, trying to change the tire myself is not something I would want to do. If worse came to worse I would, but that would be as my last option.

Dave e Victoria · 10-06-2005, 07:29 PM

I agree with sky. Although I carry a bottle jack and have had to change a tire on M3295, I think the roadside service is an excellent optio. We have both OnStar and Sam's Club. Don't know why we have both -- some things just come out that way. They probably dispatch the same guy.

mobilrvn · 10-06-2005, 07:29 PM

Think that most of us have some type of roadside service included in our insurance, either free or at a minimal charge and those of us who have limitations definately need it. However, it doesn't do you a lot of good when you don't have phone service or are many miles on the other side of the "Black Stump". I would carry a bottle jack just for insurance, plus you can use them for other things. I have had fair luck in using leveling blocks or the like in lifting the good wheel high enough that the bad one comes off the ground, just make sure that your chocks are solid.

Montana Sky · 10-06-2005, 08:21 PM

Have had to use the roadside service for the boat trailer this spring and had no cell phone coverage. I just hit the Onstar button and they called Coach-Net for me and gave them my exact location. I think I have 4 different roadside service plans, GM factory roadside, Onstar Roadside (these wont cover the trailer just the truck) my extended warranty on the truck has roadside and the coachnet for the trailers and truck. One way or another I am going to get ahold of someone to help. I saw a set of blocks online tonight for driving the good wheel up onto and it will raise the bad one far enough off the ground to change it. Might have to look into that as a just in case. I also bought a torque wrench so I could re-torque the lug nuts.

faeb and genb · 10-06-2005, 09:52 PM

I have a piece of 8x8 cut on a slant that I can pull upon or back upon, which ever I need.
Gene

Rudi and Ellen · 10-07-2005, 02:23 AM

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the advise.
I do have AAA Plus and will definitely take advantage of them when needed. However, there may be that occasion when you have to change the tire yourself. The bottle jack sounds like a good piece of equipment to have on hand for an emergency.

Montana Sky - The pull-up block sound like a quick and efficient system. I think I'll look into that as well. Thanks.

OntMont · 10-07-2005, 03:06 AM

I asked this question of the Lippert Rep. at the GLR Rally. Their response was it is better not to jack it, just pull it up onto a block so that the other wheel just clears the ground. I have not done this yet, but they suggested that a couple of pieces of 2x8 would do the trick.

I do have a roadside assistance plan, and would use it if needed, but even then, it might be better to pull it up onto a block rather than let them jack it.

It seems neither Lippert not Dester/Alko are too keen you using their components as jacking points, and the wheel and block trick sounds simple. (I'll have to try it at home before I get forced into into on the road).

drhowell · 10-07-2005, 03:20 AM

I have a bottle jack but have used the block method. It helps to have a small piece of 2x4 to put between the frame and the spring at the equalizer on the axle you are running up on the block. That small block will allow the other axle to come off the ground quicker. I have the plastic stack blocks and can make a pyramid ramp. With the spring block it only takes 2 blocks high and without it I have to use a 4 block high pyramid.

patodonn · 10-07-2005, 05:29 AM

Thought I heard that it is a no-no to jack under the axle..always jack under the frame. Looked at the Dexter FAQ mentioned above and that is also what they say. I went to some effort and expense to get the axle camber correct...don't want to screw that up again!

I might add that it seems to me to be better to have the TV connected while jacking, with all the struts up. That will allow the frame to be jacked on one side without putting a lot of weight on one or the other fwd (or aft) support struts.

JMHO

sreigle · 10-07-2005, 06:34 AM

I also have a bottle jack but am very reluctant to use it under the axles. I'm not sure it will go high enough to help much when jacking at the frame, even with blocks under it. On a previous fifthwheel I used one of those commercial "blocks" you drive one wheel up on and that worked very well, so I think the concept is a good one. That particular block was designed for 15-inch wheels and will not work with this trailer. So I will use a block under one wheel in the future.

I also have Good Sam's roadside service but there are times I'd like to get the wheel changed now rather than wait for them to arrive, so having a second option is desirable to me.

Rudi and Ellen · 10-07-2005, 11:27 AM

drhowell - A nice little trick, using the 2x4 between the frame and the spring at the equalizer on the axle. I'll try that.

You're right, OntMont. Using the block is probably the smartest thing to do.

Thanks guys!

Parrothead · 10-07-2005, 06:55 PM

With our first 5th wheel we had hydaulic jack and changed the tire but decided as we got larger units, we would let Good Sam do it.
Happy trails...............

H. John Kohl · 10-07-2005, 10:14 PM

I stored my Big Sky on jack stands. I use a 6-ton bottle jack. I use a 6"x6" foot long solid wood block cut from landscaping timber and set the jack on two of them. I also use these for the front landing jacks. I jacked on side at a time with the jack on the frame and put the 3-ton jack stand under the frame. There are two jack stands on each side. I placed one stand in front of the tires and one behind. I had to make sure I leveled the trailer to distribute the weight.

Yes I do have the trailer connected to the tow vehicle when raising or lowering either side. The front landing legs are too flimsy for me to handle all that weight.

Good luck and safe towing.

melnjoy · 10-08-2005, 03:18 AM

I am with Steve I have a hyd. jack that can lift the rig but don't know that I would lift at the axles.[AL-KO says no] I have Good Sam Road service, I think in most cases I would use them because we don't get flates in nice level parking lots.
Mel

drhowell · 10-08-2005, 04:50 AM

Where does AAA or other tire service mechanics place their jacks? Axle or frame?

When I jack any trailer I put the jack on the axle directly under the spring U bolts. Usually use a block between the jack and the trailer to spread the weight. If you jack at the frame it is important to place the jack directly under the I part or the spring hanger where you can spread the weight at a reinforced point. The lip of the channel frame could bend if you concentrate the one inch top of the bottle jack near the open edge of the channel. And you have the possibility of the trailer slipping off the jack.

One of the concerns I have with the one axle up on a block method is the amount of weight we are now putting on the one axle and wheel. This would double the weight on the one axle on dual axle trailers and could change the camber more easily than jacking the axle in the wrong place. The other stress on the axle and wheel with the block method is from the brakes. Not only are we rolling up onto a curb (block) with all the weight on the one axle but we increase the stress by locking the brakes when at the top of it. This puts fore and aft stress along with the double weight.

When I had my trailer in for alignment the professionals jack on the axles right at the spring U bolts. Or as close to them as possible. They do not jack the frames.

I guess my point is that which ever method you (or your serviceman) employ there is the potential for damage. Use common sense and reasonable caution to lessen the potential.

patodonn · 10-08-2005, 04:52 AM

Great tip! Any problem with stress on the equalizer or the bracket it mounts onto?

dsprik · 10-08-2005, 06:28 AM

Rudi and Ellen, just a side note. I believe there was a thread a few weeks ago about road service and AAA was said to NOT be able to handle transporting fifth wheels to a service facility. Might want to do a search on "road service", "camping discounts", or just "AAA". I believe there are a lot of those out there with AAA, but I think they have additional services also.

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