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Old 12-10-2005, 03:54 AM   #41
Parrothead
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fallon
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Dave, the new site Glenn posted last week. They have hundreds and some real cute ones. http://bestsmileys.com/pageindex.htm
Happy trails.....................
 
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Old 12-10-2005, 04:05 AM   #42
RADHAZJOE
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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The wire thickness required to supply 50 Amps without overheating and line losses is what makes the cord so heavy. Houses use essential almost rigid whire which can be much smaller for the same amperage. Your power cord must be more flexible and is repeatedly flexed. Household wiring would break after 10% of the flexing many pwople put their RV cord through in one year. Flexible wire ends up being thicker for the same amperage. Also, the insulation needs to withstand this flex and lay on the grouind, etc.
Finally, most houses are supplied with 220 volts which is split in the house to two 110 volt phases to feed almost everything except electric dryers, stoves, electric heat ect. 220 volts can supply the same power as 1/2 the amperage of 110 volts swo the wire can be thinner.
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Old 12-10-2005, 01:03 PM   #43
JH Sechelt
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Campbell River
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Hi There.

Here is what we ended up doing.
We purchased a 30 foot 30 amp extension cord and a 50 amp marinco female connector. I cut the female end off of the extension cord and put the 50 amp connetor on. You have to add a jumper wire from the Hot ( black wire connector) to the (red wire connector) in the 50 amp plug. A 50 amp service actually supplies two 120 volt circuits to your trailer. If you don't add the jumper only half of the circuits work in your trailer.
It does the same thing as pluging the 50 amp to 30 amp adaptor to your 50 amp monster cord. in that case the jumper is in the 50 to 30 amp adaptor. It seems to work great here in our driveway, and You don't have to man handle the 50 amp monster cord or use a bunch of adaptors.

Take care and thanks for all the info

John & Dawn
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