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Old 02-18-2016, 08:02 AM   #1
rfdbrown32166
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M.O.C. #17238
Water Heater not working

I have an SW10DE LPGas water heater. It was working fine but it quit working during the night. The igniter is firing, there is an electrical potential across the gas valve when the igniter fires, although it seems to jump around from 0 - 11.5 volts. I have gas, my 500lb tank is at 30%. I have shorted out the high/low sensors and the igniter fires, although it fires without shorting them out. There is an unmarked 15amp fuse on my 12 volt panel that was burnt out, which I replaced and suspect is for the gas water heater. It seems as though I'm not getting any gas to the heater. Any thoughts? The local dealer here isn't any help he says it can't be tested unless I bring the unit in. I"m set up full time in a park and am not moving my 5th wheel.
Any ideas?
 
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Old 02-18-2016, 04:04 PM   #2
DuneBuggyBuilder
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9 out 10 times this is caused by a failed solenoid. Go read tis posting http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...eater,solenoid Read this post and the ones linked to it for instructions on diagnosing the coil problem.

For those who don't like to read a lot, here is the gist of the processence to diagnose a bad coil. Remove the wires from each coil and using a volt/ohm meter measure the resistance of each coil. A normal one is around 35. If it is open (resistance is 1.00) it is bad and needs to be replaced. The solenoid coil closest to the burner tube is usually the failed one.
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Old 02-18-2016, 06:30 PM   #3
Irlpguy
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Rick: I think because you do not want to uproot yourself to take your unit to a dealer and the dealer says it cannot be tested without taking it in you are looking for ways to troubleshoot the problem yourself.

The tests you have performed indicate there is no problem with the high limit switch and thermostat (not high/low sensors)

To confirm you have propane to the heater propane valve you can first ensure there is no power going to the heater, ensure there is no open flame near the heater then carefully open the propane line going to the valve. You will hear/smell propane right away if you have propane there. Re-tighten the fitting and turn off the propane. Now check the solonoid. You can do this by removing the electrical connections to the solonoids and checking the continuity across the two connections. You should have a double solonoid if it is like my Suburban heater so check both of them. They should read infinite resistance. However even though they may read correctly that does not mean they are not sticking or that the control board is sending 12V to them to open them.

With the propane still off, re-connect the electrical connections to the propane valve coils (solonoids) and turn on the heater, when you do this the control board should send 12V to the solonoids to open the valve, you should be able to measure that at the coil, this voltage should not fluctuate but remain constant until the control board stops sending the 12V to the coils. The igniter should now be sparking also. After several seconds the board will sense no ignition and stop the igniter and stop sending 12V to the solonoids, if the propane were on it would shut it off at the propane valve. Turn off the heater as you cannot repeat this process for about 15 seconds or more because the control board will not open the valve or start the igniter for a time period so that any propane not ignited is purged. If you get the voltage at the coils and the system shuts off after a short period of time I think you can be fairly certain the control board is ok. (however the condition might be intermittent, so you cannot yet dismiss it entirely)

To confirm the propane valve is actually opening and allowing propane through you can turn the propane on and repeat the above process but use a butane lighter at the burner, if there is propane there and you can light it with the butane lighter and you have a good blue flame then it is a likely a problem with the igniter which may not be close enough to the flame to ignite it in the time limits of the control board.

The most likely problem is either the propane valve or the control board.

Here is a link to the operators manual on your model of heater: http://www.dyersonline.com/downloadf...tfile_id/1984/

I hope this helps in some way to resolve your issue. There are things I would do that I would not necessarily recommend to others but I have worked on these heaters many times and am very careful.







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Old 02-19-2016, 04:04 AM   #4
BB_TX
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If you have no success in your troubleshooting, check to see if there are any good mobile RV repairmen in the area. Park management would probably know.
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Old 02-22-2016, 06:14 AM   #5
rfdbrown32166
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M.O.C. #17238
I've tested the solenoids on the gas valve and the one furthest from the heater (#1) shows 40 ohms while the one next to the heater (#2) shows .2 ohms. So it appears that the 2nd solenoid has shorted out. I see that I can order solenoids on eBay or Amazon for around $29/pair or a complete valve for about $44. I think I'll order the complete valve, that way I'll have the old valve (which should still be good) and an extra solenoid for future breakdown repairs.

Thanks to everybody for their advice. It's nice to have a group of knowledgeable people that you can count on!!
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