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Old 01-19-2020, 07:42 PM   #21
Gutz54
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Not to be a smart alec or anything--but can someone explain the easiest and safest method of cleaning out the black tank?? I don't know much about physics or PSI or pound /square mm.etc (LOL). When I empty my blcck and grey tanks and put the cap back on---the next time I take the cap off to attach the "******* " hose as my wife calls it about 3 gal of nasty stinking sewer water comes out-----does that mean the gate thing when I push it back in isn't completey closing off the black tank and it's defective???
 
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Old 01-19-2020, 08:23 PM   #22
bigred715
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I had that same problem like everyone else until I bought the slide gate that fits on the end of the black dump pipe. The slide gate under the plastic cover doesn't always seal and thats why you have that ugly discharge when you take the end cap off. Took me too many years to figure out I needed that extra twist on dump slide.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:17 PM   #23
Carl n Susan
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There is usually residual "gunk" in the 3" lines (black and shower) due to a lack of significant slope to effectively drain everything. There is about 4+' of line after the valves that can hold the stuff. *IF* you raise the front and tilt up on the left (for the black tank) and down (for the grey tank), you will extract much of the fluid. But few do that (unless you are going to change out a valve). A Valterra twist on gate valve at the end of the dump pipe stops the "gunk" from taking you by surprise.


I do think 3 gallons is excessive and may indicate a leaky valve.
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Old 01-19-2020, 09:21 PM   #24
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When flushing the black tank I make that my sole focus and rather than using the clock to judge filling the black tank I use the light gauge and fill it halfway then walk around and turn the water off. Haven’t totally filled it using the gauge. Guess if you gauge seems faulty this won’t work.
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Old 01-20-2020, 04:34 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by rjlamb View Post
While using the Camco Blaster Pro tank flush adapter this morning, I experienced a major problem. Several minutes into the second filling, the black tank fractured its lid and water flowed everywhere. I removed the unit’s chloroplast underbelly and could reach up and lift the damaged section of the tank lid and reach inside the tank. My tank # is HT 543 from Keystone. My RV is a 2014 293RK HC. Where in the Palm Springs area should I begin looking for a replacement? If the roof vent on the tank is clear, how could pressure blow the tank?
I also had the same problem about 2 years ago. The only support for these tanks are on the side mounted rails. As they fill the tabs start to hold all of the weight and the top starts to expand. Remember the only thing holding your pipes on top of the tank are a thin layer of ABS glue. My vent pipe just popped right off and I found where my lid was cracked on the upper right corner.
I removed the underbelly and the tank. I removed the lid and repaired the right side with my own ABS patching I made with ABS glue, ABS pipe shavings and screening material. I then used the same glue to reseal the lid and vent pipe attachment. I screwed in strips of 1/8 steel around the lid for extra reinforcement and then I put 2 straps(with water hose in between to prevent chaffing) on both, my grey and black tanks.
I have never had anymore issues with my tanks.
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Old 01-20-2020, 07:02 AM   #26
mazboy
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If you can't fix the tank yourself get it into a dealer. figure it will be around $1100 to replace.
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Old 01-21-2020, 09:03 PM   #27
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A lot of calculations on psi and so on and how long it takes to fill the black tank. I see it this way once the nozzle of the tank flush is under water it is not flushing anymore. The purpose is to spray water around the inside of the tank to wash the junk out. I start my tank flush with the gate valve open and let it run for about 10 minutes or until it's clear. Then I shut the gate valve for no more than a minute or two and open it back up usually seeing more paper and poo at the clear section of drain pipe. I repeat this procedure until all runs clear or near clear. I see no advantage to pressurizing a black tank at any level. This job is dirty enough as it is. Plumbing law no. 1, S--t runs down hill...let it run.
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Old 01-22-2020, 06:50 AM   #28
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Hblick48, I'm getting one of these flowmeters, great idea. hubby is the one filling & dumping the tanks, while I'm the one in & out of Monty checking the level of the tank sensors. The black tank sensor is wrong sometimes when paper gets stuck on the sensor.
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Old 01-22-2020, 10:04 AM   #29
mhs4771
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I have switched to using a flow meter while dumping. Originally was timeing the flush, but water flow and pressure effect how much water can flow in a specific period of time.
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Old 06-30-2020, 04:53 PM   #30
Pitchbb9
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I need a new tank for my 2010 3400 RL
Where did you get your new tank?
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Old 07-01-2020, 04:49 AM   #31
mazboy
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I assume lamb who posted in January has figured out where to get a replacement tank by now.


but generally the best place to get the original tank is by going through a keystone dealer.
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Old 07-01-2020, 05:02 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Pitchbb9 View Post
I need a new tank for my 2010 3400 RL
Where did you get your new tank?
I repaired mine. I made an and paste and used metal strips and plumbers strap for support.
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Old 07-01-2020, 07:13 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by mazboy View Post
I

but generally the best place to get the original tank is by going through a keystone dealer.
The thing is, getting an original tank is like replacing chinabomb tires with chinabomb tires. If he's in there anyway, may as well get a rotoformed tank. Make that both tanks and be done.
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Old 07-01-2020, 10:13 AM   #34
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The thing is, getting an original tank is like replacing chinabomb tires with chinabomb tires. If he's in there anyway, may as well get a rotoformed tank. Make that both tanks and be done.
Where can you get poly rotoformed tanks? The only site I found says they must be special ordered and they will be spendy.
https://www.plasticwatertanks.com

Also as I posted before the tank source is ICON:
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...drain-ht543ed/
This is the tank for our 2010 2955RL. Black and Gray.
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Old 07-01-2020, 11:17 AM   #35
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The first site you found is a good source. The second one shows the tank most likely to fail. If having the tank repaired by a shop, they will have sources for tanks. It isn't so much about tanks made for your trailer. It is moreso about dimensions and plumbing locations that will fit in the space available. A good shop will know what to do. My preference is an rv repair shop, not a dealer.

Now, can the lesser quality tank repair be successful? Yes. Adding support underneath the tanks will be easy and necessary to for a good repair.
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Old 07-01-2020, 11:43 AM   #36
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The picture of the tank on the ICON ad is upside-down but the it is more than likely the correct tank for both the gray and the black tanks. The biggest problem is getting the tanks out and back up again since the incoming tubes have to be cut and then set up so they don't leak with the new ones in place. Adding support via boards or strapping helps support the new tanks when installed Flexible tubing with radiator clamps, they say works the best for the intake. I've blown a couple of our tanks and its been m own fault because I filled them to full. Got to dump about every three to four days to really be safe.
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