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Old 10-24-2011, 04:48 AM   #1
Montana_10714
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replacing batteries in Dodge Diesel truck

I have a 2005 Dodge 2500 Diesel...
I think it's time to change batteries (2) .
Has anyone done this recently ?
What did you buy - what CCA ?
Thanks
 
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:47 AM   #2
Art-n-Marge
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I did this a few months ago on my Ford Superduty.

There were two batteries, they both died after five years (the window on the top showed red and stayed red). They were 650 CCAs. The book specifies the standard battery requirement is 650 CCA and an optional setup is 750. I think it's overkill but it's done. The prices were lower than another brand with less CCAs plus this had a longer warranty. Are there any problems with getting more CCAs than are needed?

The replacements I got were Bosch 825 CCA, 9 year warranted batteries, 4 year full replacement, then 5 year at a prorated schedule. I forgot what I paid, but I want to say about $200 with taxes and core refunds for both batteries out the door.

These batteries provide 825 CCAs @ 0 degrees and 1000 CCAs at 32 degrees. I have never started my truck at low temps. Do the CCAs go much higher at higher temps? The truck starts like a champ now, but am I cranking too much amps? Does anyone know how this works?
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:00 AM   #3
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When you shop for batteries for diesels and get close to making a decision, IMHO, I would by the one that weighed the most, that means more lead and in spite of all claims and promises, when you get to the point of purchase the weight of comparable batteries is the most important factor. Weight = power =longevity. The winner between comparables for me would be the heaviest. Larry
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:28 AM   #4
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I like the Duralast battery's from Auto Zone you will have a choce of CCA also have the same in the Montana. National Warrinty is a nice feature
I purchased the top of the line which is Gold Series about a $100.00
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:14 PM   #5
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Art, not a problem. Your starter will only draw the amperage it needs. You just have lots of extra reserve now.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:29 PM   #6
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x2 what MHS4771 said... CCA = cold cranking amps so where your located likely overkill but us northerner's need all that extra for good glow plug and starter turn-over speed. When I did mine I did one at a time keeping the plus from contacting ground so my PCM didn't loose its mind and have to re-learn.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:27 PM   #7
c214dick
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I replaced the batteries in my 03 Dodge last year with Interstates. They're easy to have replaced if there's a problem, the price was good. I think they are 850 but I could check tomorrow and let you know for sure.
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Art-n-Marge

I did this a few months ago on my Ford Superduty.

There were two batteries, they both died after five years (the window on the top showed red and stayed red). They were 650 CCAs. The book specifies the standard battery requirement is 650 CCA and an optional setup is 750. I think it's overkill but it's done. The prices were lower than another brand with less CCAs plus this had a longer warranty. Are there any problems with getting more CCAs than are needed?

The replacements I got were Bosch 825 CCA, 9 year warranted batteries, 4 year full replacement, then 5 year at a prorated schedule. I forgot what I paid, but I want to say about $200 with taxes and core refunds for both batteries out the door.

These batteries provide 825 CCAs @ 0 degrees and 1000 CCAs at 32 degrees. I have never started my truck at low temps. Do the CCAs go much higher at higher temps? The truck starts like a champ now, but am I cranking too much amps? Does anyone know how this works?
I don't know Art, You may overcrank that baby
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:21 PM   #9
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We still have the oem's in our 2006 Cummins Ram 3500 and they seem to be working well after 83,000 miles. We live in Illinois and one of the characteristics of the Cummins engine is that the intake air heater ( in place of glow plugs) takes a huge amount of current. When the engine is cold the lights will dim and go back to normal every 20 seconds or so as the heater comes back on. At first I thought I had a bad alternator but I finally determined that it was the heaters cycling on and off. The dash voltmeter drops like a rock when the heaters kick in.
Because of the high peak current requirements I'll replace them with as heavy a battery as I can fit sometime in the next 6 months.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:56 PM   #10
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What battery to use is akin to what tires to buy for your RV ... generates a lot of discussion and comes down to what you can afford and what works best for you.
For me, when it comes time to replace batteries on my 2009 2500 CTD, I'll get the ones with the most CCA, best warranty, largest dealer network and best price. I'll probably do it in the "off season" when I won't be towing the Monty so I can research the heck out of it.
Good luck with your purchase.
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:58 AM   #11
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CBTraveler, your story on the intake air heater is very interesting. Are you saying this dimming occurs every single time the truck starts up and the engine hasn't warmed up, or are you saying when you start your Cummings in cold weather? After the engine starts up, aren't the glow plugs no longer needed and as well the air heater should not be needed either?

My BIL has a Cummins in his Dodge albeit it's an older model. Would yours still have the 5.9L engine and you're saying the engine changed by going to the intake air heater as opposed to glow plugs? I'll have to ask my BIL if he notices this too.

I only bring this up because I thought there was a voltage regulator somewhere (I think it's on the alternator) that should be preventing fluctuations such as this and maybe you need a new alternator or voltage regulator if there is one. Has it always done this? I've just never heard of this before as being normal or acceptable. This fluctuation reads like it's pretty pronounced. Do the headlights dim or the radio volume get reduced, too?

I do like learning about stuff and I'll add this one to the list.
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Old 10-28-2011, 01:50 PM   #12
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Art, I think that Cummins has used the grid heater for several years and they will cycle on and off depending on the temp. of the incoming air. The voltage output of the alternator is controlled by the computer,not by a separate stand alone regulator. My lights do dim slightly when it cycles but radio is not affected. The voltage gage will show low for a little bit till you give it some throttle as you drive away. At least this is how mine works and I am comming up on 8 years on oem batteries. I have never plug mine in as I do not have the cord for it. The truck is my daily driver since day one The international school bus that I drive also uses grid heater and I beleive that it cycles also, but I have not watched the voltage gage. It is just now getting cold enough here over night for the wait to start light to stay for a little bit. I may watch it come Monday if I remember(that memory thing). JHE
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Old 10-28-2011, 07:24 PM   #13
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That grid heater sucks a LOT of juice but it only comes on (as John says) depending on the temp of the incoming air. I plug my truck in now whenever I park it in the driveway and the heater grid does not come on when I start it 1st thing in the AM. All 1989-2012 Cummins engines on Dodges come with a heater plug installed from the factory. The wire that connects to it is easy to install. Here is a good source for it:
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....EATER_CABLE_FL
The engine warmup is much faster when you use it.
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