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Old 02-13-2018, 05:20 AM   #41
LaydBack
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I'm basically contemplating dual panes vs third AC unit with a heat pump. I'm thinking if I have the dealer install the 3rd AC, I would have them actually put it where the bedroom AC is, and move the factory bedroom AC to replace the vent fan where the 3rd AC goes. That way I could have the 2 heat pumps on the duct system. I'm just wondering if the rear bedroom unit is taller and would present a height issue on the 3731.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:33 AM   #42
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We travel all over the country example we were at a FCRV rally in Shawnee,OK a couple of summers ago and the outside temp 107 degree both A/C running full blast kept us sort of comfortable. We have been in very hot temps in Az, Texas, New Mexico and our 2 A/C's kept us from roasting. We have considered a 3rd A/C but since we manage t o be in moderate climates most of the year we decided the 3rd A/C was not
a good cost VS benefit decision considering how much we might need it. If we spent most of our time in very hot climates we would probably have the 3rd A/C
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:58 AM   #43
CaptnJohn
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We 'most of the time' and travel during September thru May. Keep the boat on the Atlantic the other 3 months. Beat the heat and most importantly the crowds. The 2 do us well and appreciate the heat pump more even winter in Florida.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:33 AM   #44
Forsch
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Montana's come with two different model A/C's. A 15,000 BTU in the main living area and a 13,500 BTU in the bedroom. I added the second 15,000 BTU (no heat pump in this one) in place of the roof vent over our entry area. I would have liked the second A/C in the bedroom to be a 15,000 BTU as well. I'm not a fan of the ducted systems. In theory they sound good. The issue is they are not installed well. I understand they are much quieter, but for me I would rather have the cooling power. Here in Southern California and areas where we travel it can get quite hot. When you pay this much for a 5th wheel I don't want to be kept from roasting, I want to be comfortable. In my opinion if the two factory A/C's and ducting were installed with care they would be sufficient to cool the trailer, but that wasn't the case for me.

LaydBack,

We ordered our coach after speaking with two of the supervisors in production at an RV show. I was also interested in the dual pane windows and was told I shouldn't spend the money on them. I was told that unless I travel to extremely cold climates they wouldn't make that big of a difference and eventually the space between the panes would develop condensation. That alone convinced me to avoid the cost to upgrade.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:07 AM   #45
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We've decided to just shoot for having the bedroom upgraded to a 2nd heat pump, and then down the line, adding a 3rd AC if we feel the need...that way we don't incur the expense and then realize we don't use it... I figured a 2nd heat pump upgrade should be reasonable.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:13 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsch View Post
So I finally was able to look at the intake vents. Wow. The ducting was collapsed to about 1/2 inch both in the living room and the bedroom. I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC as recommended in an earlier post to open the duct. You could feel the difference in the exit pressure of the A/C vents. When I checked the intake vents in the bedroom I was amazed to see that the opening cut by the factory was only about 1/2 of the size of the vent covers. I was amazed at how little air was exiting the A/C vents in the bedroom. I cut the intake opening to match the size of the vent covers and re-taped them with aluminum tape. Again, what a difference in the output pressure of the A/C vents.

If you are having any issues with your A/C not moving enough air, I would definitely recommend checking these two things. They are very easy to correct and don't take much time.

Third A/C will be installed this Friday. Dometic Blizzard NXT. I will comment on that after it is installed.

Now to adding more output vents to the bedroom ceiling...
What length 1 1/2 inch PVC did you use to opne the duct
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:26 AM   #47
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I used around 3 to 4 inches. It doesn't take much. The issue is making sure the opening in the ceiling is the size of the intake vents and the ducting is not collapsed. The small piece of PVC works well.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:49 AM   #48
LaydBack
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Originally Posted by Forsch View Post
Montana's come with two different model A/C's. A 15,000 BTU in the main living area and a 13,500 BTU in the bedroom. I added the second 15,000 BTU (no heat pump in this one) in place of the roof vent over our entry area. I would have liked the second A/C in the bedroom to be a 15,000 BTU as well. I'm not a fan of the ducted systems. In theory they sound good. The issue is they are not installed well. I understand they are much quieter, but for me I would rather have the cooling power. Here in Southern California and areas where we travel it can get quite hot. When you pay this much for a 5th wheel I don't want to be kept from roasting, I want to be comfortable. In my opinion if the two factory A/C's and ducting were installed with care they would be sufficient to cool the trailer, but that wasn't the case for me.

LaydBack,

We ordered our coach after speaking with two of the supervisors in production at an RV show. I was also interested in the dual pane windows and was told I shouldn't spend the money on them. I was told that unless I travel to extremely cold climates they wouldn't make that big of a difference and eventually the space between the panes would develop condensation. That alone convinced me to avoid the cost to upgrade.
I keep seeing that they use 2 15K units??? Is the factory heat pump a Brisk, Blizzard, or Air Command?
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:01 AM   #49
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They use a Blizzard for the main unit with the heat pump.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:18 PM   #50
Golfmedik
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Originally Posted by LaydBack View Post
I keep seeing that they use 2 15K units??? Is the factory heat pump a Brisk, Blizzard, or Air Command?
IIRC, both 15k units came on the Legacy Package only at first, but I could be mistaken.
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Old 02-14-2018, 06:49 AM   #51
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We've had three RVs with heat pumps, but very seldom use them. They don't work under about 40 degrees and are noisy. If I had a choice, I'd order the AC without the HP.
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:59 PM   #52
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Talked to a dealer today and got a suggestion that I should have come up with all along...just put a heat strip in the 2nd AC to supplement the heat pump...lot less expensive
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Old 02-14-2018, 10:13 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsch View Post
Montana's come with two different model A/C's. A 15,000 BTU in the main living area and a 13,500 BTU in the bedroom. I added the second 15,000 BTU (no heat pump in this one) in place of the roof vent over our entry area. I would have liked the second A/C in the bedroom to be a 15,000 BTU as well. I'm not a fan of the ducted systems. In theory they sound good. The issue is they are not installed well. I understand they are much quieter, but for me I would rather have the cooling power. Here in Southern California and areas where we travel it can get quite hot. When you pay this much for a 5th wheel I don't want to be kept from roasting, I want to be comfortable. In my opinion if the two factory A/C's and ducting were installed with care they would be sufficient to cool the trailer, but that wasn't the case for me.

LaydBack,

We ordered our coach after speaking with two of the supervisors in production at an RV show. I was also interested in the dual pane windows and was told I shouldn't spend the money on them. I was told that unless I travel to extremely cold climates they wouldn't make that big of a difference and eventually the space between the panes would develop condensation. That alone convinced me to avoid the cost to upgrade.
We have not had an issue keeping our rig cool here in AZ with 2 A/Cs except when you wait till the afternoon to turn it on with the inside temp 125+ and everything inside really hot. We generally don't stop anywhere with really high temps unless we have to. The ducted air is much quieter than the direct air. We have good air flow from ours.

The real advantage of dual pane glass is noise reduction although it doesn't hurt when its really cold or hot.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:24 PM   #54
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Installed 3rd air conditioner, Lots of info!

Ok...Here is the Deal on the 3rd a/c

I own a 2018 3811MS. I spend most of my time in Southern New Mexico around the Carlsbad area. Camping world installed the 3rd air conditioner for me when I purchased the unit.

The Weather: The temperature where I am at routinely climbs over 100 to 110. My unit is the oyster exterior so it is about the lightest color I could find. It is parked in a shop yard on black top (yes, I know its horrible but there is no where to live here).

My Life: I live in this unit full time and work in the oil field 7 days a week. When it is hot out I follow the golden rules. No heating up ovens, I take a cold shower, keep the doors closed, and I keep the awnings down as often as possible.

My Unit: The 2018 3811MS comes standard with 2 a/c units. A 15k heat pump & a/c combo for the rear of the coach and a 13.5k a/c for the bedroom, closet, and bathroom. They both are set up to circulate cold air through the 4" central vents in the ceiling, with the Whisper Air system. I added the 3rd 13.5k BTU for the kitchen.

The 3rd a/c: This unit is a 13.5K BTU DOMETIC Penguin 2 a/c only. It is a dump unit and is what I consider rather loud. But...It is worth it if you are going to hot places. EXCEPT FOR THE POWER SHARE SYSTEM

On May the 10th 2018 in Carlsbad New Mexico my thermostat was reading an outside temp of 110 degrees and with the 2 a/c's running the inside temp was 82. I sleep during the day and cant live like this.

The 3rd a/c is set up on a power share system that shares a circuit with the front unit. Heat rises and with the 3810ms having a black front window it causes the front cap to heat up quite a bit. This causes the the power share system to not work very well. To cool off the back you can turn the bedroom a/c off and turn the 3rd unit on. This leaves you with 28.5k BTU of cooling power at any one time. This was not cooling the trailer to a livable level. I added a 2nd circut to the camper to run all 3 a/c's at one time for a total of 70 amps and 42k BTU of cooling power. IT MADE A HUGE DIFFERENCE.

The Power Share System: It is located behind the breaker panel/power converter box below my coat rack. It is a standard grey plastic 4" square electrical box that says Power Share System with a wiring diagram printed on the cover. It was pretty easy to locate. In my rig there are 2 Power Share boxes, the unit that controls the a/c's was to the right. I disconnected the 3rd a/c which is on the secondary line, the primary line that has control of the power share system is the front bedroom unit. I ran a 12awg 20amp line to the side of the trailer and added a shore power connector. I have a regular 12awg 75' extension cord that I plug in to an 20 amp circuit at my hook up. Now I have the standard 50amp hook up for the rig and a 20amp for the 3rd a/c. DOMETIC states that the 13.5k unit only uses 1731W and 15amps @ 115V. But, I ran a 20amp system for starting load...etc.

This has made a HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!! My rig went from 82 degrees to 72 degrees that day. I totally recommend this if you want to keep it cool!!

PLEASE PLEASE message me if you have any questions or would like any info on this!!

STAY COOL!
Kurt
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Old 05-12-2018, 08:13 AM   #55
DQDick
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Thanks Kurt! Since we own a lot at The Ranch in Lakewood, NM, just north of you the information is very timely. When we retire from the road, our end game is to live there year round so it sounds like the third AC is something we will be doing.
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Old 05-12-2018, 12:09 PM   #56
jeffba
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Our last full summer in Las Cruces, NM we had 45 days of 110+ 3 ACs would be good.
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