20 and 30 amp = 50 amp converter

[Montana_1424]

I have seen at Camping world, a coverter which will let you utilize both a 20 amp service and 30 amp service, available at almost all the places I stay, to give you a full 50 amps. I was wondering if anyone has one, used one, likes it, dislikes it. Most of the places I stay have both 20 and 30 amp service, and I would like to utilize the full 50 amps, especially with the winter coming, and me staying indoors more. I have read that these converters do not work with Ground Fault Circuts, but this confuses me, as all the 20 amp services I have seen are ground fault outlets. Again, and info will help. As I do not check these fourms everyday, feel free to email me opinions directly at sfd124@earthlink.net
Thanks

[Montana_621]

If anyone has suggestions or comments to this post, please post here so the rest of us can benefit too. THANKS!

[Montana_381]

The only "converter" of that type that I'm familiar with is a dual-input pigtail.

First, you need to be aware that 50A service isn't one 30A 120V leg and one 20A 120V leg - it's two 50A 120V legs. [50A 240V Single-phase].

Second, you need to be aware that a 30A-max pedestal can only supply 30A no matter how many sockets it has. (The 20A an 15A both feed off the same incoming "supply" circuit.)

If the goal is to connect a 50A power cord to a 30A pedestal then an inexpensive pigtail adapter can be used. (We got 2 with our trailer)

Bob

[faeb and genb]

Bob I always thought that 50 amp service was 1 30 amp & 1 20 amp for total of 50 amps 120 volts, not 240. May be wrong.
Gene

[Montana_1424]

I already have the pig tail from 50 to 30 also, I am looking to get 50 total from the 30 and 20 amp circuts available. I have seen the dual pigtail you speak about, and didnt know it that gave you true 50 amps, and all that, which is why I am asking. I too, also thought that 50 amp service was made up of the 20 and 30 amp, both at 110-120 volts, at least that is the way the dealer explained it to me.
More information would be helpfull, thanks.

[Montana_381]

quote:Originally posted by faeb and genb

Bob I always thought that 50 amp service was 1 30 amp & 1 20 amp for total of 50 amps 120 volts, not 240. May be wrong.
Gene

Believe me, Gene, you're wrong.

Check with a licensed electrician, if you wish, about having a 50A RV outlet installed.

The circuit breaker box inside the trailer (or MH) for a 50A setup has two seperate busses that are isolated from each other and are fed from seperate legs of the power cord.

Each buss can handle up to 50A.

FWIW, My Onan genny supplies 30A 240V single-phase with each leg routed through the transfer switch to a seperate leg.

[Treecounter]

It is true both incoming legs are 50 Amps at the source. My rig has a 30amp and 20 amp breaker. We took a fifty amp RV female outlet we removed to install a Hot tub and ran a 30 amp and 20 amp male plugs to so we could have power to both sides of our fifty amp service. True it is not a true fifty amp service but it does share the load. As stated by CW this will not work if the park has a GFI circuit. Have not used it yet. But the design is right. Treecounter

[NJ Hillbilly]

Diffeent trailers (bulid dates) have different panels. The earlier 50 amp trailers had the 20/30 amp mains and the later (later '03)have the true double 50 amp mains.

John

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by kozzy45
I have read that these converters do not work with Ground Fault Circuts, but this confuses me, as all the 20 amp services I have seen are ground fault outlets. Again, and info will help. As I do not check these fourms everyday, feel free to email me opinions directly at sfd124@earthlink.net
Thanks

I have one that I purchased at CW a couple years ago. They are not converters. They merely allow you to obtaine something more than 30 amps but less than 50. They are sold with the idea that you can get 50 amps but you can't. There is some "boost" in current above the 30 amps but that is all. They work very good at older parks where the old type 20 amp receptacles are used and then only if the 30 and 20 amp outlets are on separate circuits.

What you have heard about them not working where there are 20 amp ground fault receptacles installed is correct. They will not work there. However, I liked how mine worked when I was using a lot of county parks across the country. A lot of them have poor wiring and they haven't upgraded wiring. As you probably know, Camping World sells them to Presidents Club members for $72.00. I'll sell mine for $55.00 and pay the postage.

[Montana_1424]

Thanks for all the good info. Ols, thanks for the offer, but I have never stayed at a park that does not have the 20 Amp on a ground fault, I check at every park I go to, that does not have true 50 AMP, so it will really not do any good for me, but thanks for the offer, and thanks to all for the information. Now I know that the adapter would just be a waste for me.

[NJ Hillbilly]

You could easily make one also for less than $50. Just need the 30 amp male pigtail from CW or somewhere else along with a 50 amp female.

John

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by NJ Hillbilly

You could easily make one also for less than $50. Just need the 30 amp male pigtail from CW or somewhere else along with a 50 amp female.John

If you make one, be careful how you wire it! It is not as simple as just wiring them in parallel. Believe me -- I have friends who have tried. As an electrician, I'm saying don't do it unless you check with a bona fide electrician.

[Coro from Maryland]

I bought a simular unit, and it has worked fine for me at many campgrounds. I usually only need 30 amps, but running two lines for 50 amps makes it less likely that I will trip a breaker. Since I sometimes leave the dogs in the trailer with the A/C on, I would not want something to kick the power off.

One thing that has puzzled me is that at my home campground I have the type of service that actually delivers 30 and 20 amps on separate lines, But the combiner hasn't worked well there (where I need it most). However there is a ground fault on the 20 amp side,

I hadn't thought about the ground fault issue. I guess what you folks are saying (me not being an expert) is that the return current would be combined on the neutral, and the ground fault wiould see the imbalance and trip. Is this right? If so, I will remove the ground fault.

By the way, there is great 50 amp RV wiring info at
http://www.myrv.us/Pgs/RV/50amp.htm

[ols1932]

quote:Originally posted by Coro from Maryland



I hadn't thought about the ground fault issue. I guess what you folks are saying (me not being an expert) is that the return current would be combined on the neutral, and the ground fault wiould see the imbalance and trip. Is this right? If so, I will remove the ground fault.

You are absolutely correct. The ground fault senses the imbalance, causing it to trip. I've found that just about the only place I can make use of mine is at campsites where there is "old" wiring -- wiring that met the codes of years ago and hasn't been upgraded.