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Old 08-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #61
CaptnJohn
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
First, I'll admit I have never towed our Monte with a DRW. But I have towed it with the SRW in 30 mph cross winds with higher gust, and barely know the wind is blowing until we stop and I get out and have to lean into the wind. Same with passing trucks, little to no effect. Unlike MHs I have been behind moving back and forth across the lanes. And winding mountain roads are no problem. I will not doubt a DRW is maybe more stable, but that does not mean an SRW is unstable. DRW may be necessary for payload, but not for stability. I suppose some people are just more sensitive to movement.
Have had a dually (one and done) I agree with you 100%. The only reason one is required is if needed for payload. I'd never go over payload above all else.
 
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:53 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Bob Bo View Post
Hey all, we just purchased a 2018 Montana 3810MS and I'm trying to make sure I've got enough tow vehicle. Anyone that can give me some advice, I appreciate it.

Tow Vehicle:
2018 Ram 2500
6.7L Diesel
Automatic
4x4
Long Bed
Crew Cab

Keystone Montana 3810MS
Dry weight: 13385lbs
Carry Cap: 3365lbs
Hitch weight: 2745lbs

Again, any help is appreciated. Hopefully we haven't gotten ahead of ourselves.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob Bo

I did that in 2015 and my 3/4 ton SRW steered like a barge so I felt quite unsafe in it. I bought a 2015 Shivalay 3500 SRW and we got along just fine .... until a rear tire slung off it's cap and tore up the fender well and such on the pickup.

I really thought the pickup was big enough and I thought the tires were rated for enough weight carrying capacity until I weighed the whole she bang one axle at a time on the pickup and both axles at the same time on the trailer. I then bought the highest load rated tires I could buy for the drive axle and I'm still 15 pounds over weight on each tire when fully loaded out. I now haul less drinking water and other stuff in the storage compartment and Wife and I removed some of the junk from the trailer and we are just below the rated capacity of the tires.

In short we really need a dual wheel pickup but I have worn out a number of them and do not want to deal with them anymore.

BE SURE whatever you do for a tow vehicle that you have enough tire load rating to handle the loaded weight put on your tires.
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Old 08-15-2018, 02:59 PM   #63
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Hmmm.... Interesting because my understanding is if you buy a Ram SRW with the 6.7 you get the 3.42s, period. No other options available. Check out the towing guide linked below. Ram does not publish towing specs for any gear ratio other than 3.42 for SRW trukcs equipped with the Cummins.

https://www.ramtrucks.com/assets/tow...ing_charts.pdf

I would be interested in the gear ratio listed on your build sheet. Add your VIN to the end of the link below. You will see the actual axle ratio under optional equipment.

https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice...etServlet?vin=

And I am certainly not trying to argue with you. If there is some super secret method to order 4.10s in a diesel RAM 3500 SRW then I will visit the dealership soon. Though 3.42s as the only SRW option is a topic of angst and frustration on the cummins forums.

Kevin
Kevin I would never argue! I'v seen the build your truck on line and ya 3.42 is the only thing is show but whats funny my dealer that I bought my truck at only get with 3.73 for the trucks that have in stock on the lot. nobody want's 3.42 for towing! so maybe you need to talk to a dealer I like to order things from people not computers. But that is just me.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:17 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Bob Bo View Post
Hey all, we just purchased a 2018 Montana 3810MS and I'm trying to make sure I've got enough tow vehicle. Anyone that can give me some advice, I appreciate it.

Tow Vehicle:
2018 Ram 2500
6.7L Diesel
Automatic
4x4
Long Bed
Crew Cab

Keystone Montana 3810MS
Dry weight: 13385lbs
Carry Cap: 3365lbs
Hitch weight: 2745lbs

Again, any help is appreciated. Hopefully we haven't gotten ahead of ourselves.
Thanks,
Bob
Bob Bo, nothing will increase your pin capacity on the truck you have. It is what it is and clearly the only thing you might consider is keeping other "stuff" out of the truck - like wife, kids, extra fuel, spare DEF, fire wood and other "stuff". You cannot change very much the 5r hitch weight or the weight of the hitch in the bed of the truck. After saying all that, one thing you might consider as an add on for the 5r is the addition of disc brakes.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:36 PM   #65
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The "can I tow my 3810MS with a SRW vs DRW " is more akin to.... can you cross a busy fast moving freeway in a rainstorm on foot or not. Yeah you can, but only if you have nerves of steel or a death wish. You will exceed your payload or RAWR or both with that trailer. While the CCC is 3365, remember if you carry that much... about 20% or 673 lbs will be added to that 2745 unloaded trailer pin in other words your pin will now be over 3400 lbs. Plus the hitch(you said 500 lbs), plus any gear in the PU bed, plus anything else (proportionately in the truck.... spouse, dogs, other gear in the cab... you get the picture.) Now you are pushing over the RAWR of the PU (in SRW configuration). The published RAM max trailer weight of 17210 is the ideal max (with gooseneck and not with RV. Gooseneck trailers typically have much lower pin weights than RVs.) You will also probably go over your CGWVR of 25300 all in. Air bags do not raise your ratings. they do add more weight to your truck thus reducing what you can tow.


There are those that will do it, most will tell you not to. Enough said. Listen to those that are hammering you to get the DRW.

I see, on edit, you went ahead with a 3500SRW.... so everything I just said is moot. Be careful.

We are also looking at the 3811MS (99% likely) and we will not consider anything less than a 3500 DRW--- current the RAM is our top pick.
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:40 PM   #66
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Its all about the weights. Your current truck is probably has a GVWR of 10,000 lbs. The crew cab long bed version is the heaviest model. You didn't specify trim level so if it is a fancy one, all the toys add weight. Unless you have weighed the trailer, you may find that the pin weight of 2,745 is lower than what it will actually be when you load up for a trip. If you are lucky, you might be under the TV GVWR. Otherwise, you might need a 3500/350 model. Again, depending on weights, you may need a dually to be legal on weights. I'd recommend loading the RV for a trip and going to the scales with your current TV to see what the weights are.
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:44 PM   #67
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Kevin I would never argue! I'v seen the build your truck on line and ya 3.42 is the only thing is show but whats funny my dealer that I bought my truck at only get with 3.73 for the trucks that have in stock on the lot. nobody want's 3.42 for towing! so maybe you need to talk to a dealer I like to order things from people not computers. But that is just me.
The second link I provided is not the build your truck online tool. It will detail the actual build of your specific truck based on VIN. Can you verify and post a screen shot?
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Old 08-15-2018, 04:50 PM   #68
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Hi Bob Bo. We also have the 3810MS, a 2017 model, and really like it. We've done several mods, so feel free to ask what we did, and what experience we've had. This is our second season with it.

In regards to your truck, as mentioned you went with a 3500. That's what we did as well, a GMC 3500 SRW. Yes, SRW, and we've had no problems with handling. If towing was the ONLY thing we used it for, then I would have gone with a DRW. But, this is also an "in town" driver, and I did not want to deal with duals for that. We are about 500 pounds under capacity on the truck, so not a lot of room for extras, but we manage the load well.

Pulling hills is no problem (with the diesel) and stopping has been no probem either. I don't know where they get the pin weight for their literature, but our pin weight is around 3400 pounds.

It's all about liability. Sure, the small truck could tow it, but if it comes to an "incident" then the legals will be checking every detail. That's what made me go to a larger capacity truck.

Good luck and enjoy that 3810. We sure enjoy ours.
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Old 08-15-2018, 05:01 PM   #69
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Liability, that’s what you have insurance for.
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Old 08-15-2018, 05:11 PM   #70
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I had a 2005 Ram 2500 Cummins powered, towing a 12,000 lb fiver. I had to put a anti-sway bar on the back so the trailer wouldn’t pull the trailer off the road in a wind....the bar helped but it was just n the upper envelope of my comfort ability. I would never pull a 15,000lb trailer with that truck.
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Old 08-15-2018, 05:54 PM   #71
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Liability, that’s what you have insurance for.
Lynwood
Yes, you have liability insurance to protect from some things. However, if your insurance company and the "legal beagles" find out that you were running overloaded, then your insurance is going to say "claim denied"......, or worse. Maybe your insurance will cover you, BUT you can bet the other person's insurance is REALLY going to go after everything they can get. And your insurance company will then not renew, and good luck finding reasonable insurance after that. Do what you want, I've got too much at stake to take that kind of risk.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:01 PM   #72
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I had a 2005 Ram 2500 Cummins powered, towing a 12,000 lb fiver. I had to put a anti-sway bar on the back so the trailer wouldn’t pull the trailer off the road in a wind....the bar helped but it was just n the upper envelope of my comfort ability. I would never pull a 15,000lb trailer with that truck.
They made a lot of changes in later years on the trucks. We had a 2008 GMC 3500, with 9900 pounds GVWR. Towed our 3400 with no problem, and under the weight limit. Then we got the 3725. Tongue weight went from 2700 pounds to over 3400. Now we were over the GVWR. Went to the 2015 GMC 3500. Basically the same truck, but with some improvements it's GVWR is now 11,600. The newer trailers seem to be running a higher pin weight. The new 2015 is under the GVWR, so we're good. BOTH trucks were under the GCWR, but it was the load on the rear axle that did in the 2008 and made us get the 2015. And even with a brisk side wind, among other things, I've never felt "unsafe" with the SRW's. To each his own.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:07 PM   #73
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Lets be honest here.... Heaven forbid it ever happens to any of us, but IF we are in a serious crash/incident and it is our fault(sometimes even if its not ), you WILL be sued for everything that insurance covers plus some!!! Its just the reality of todays world we live in.

With that said, Lets all just use common sense and stop bickering over what someone does or doesn't tow with. This is my final post on this thread , thanks for the discussion!
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:07 PM   #74
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Well here is my two cents worth. I agree with mtlakejim. I had a 1989 F-350 460 DRW that I pulled vatious trailers with until I traded it in on a 2008 F-250 Super Duty with V-10. Then DW wanted this 2006 Montana 3475RLS with 14000 GVWR. The F-250 handled it ok, and I was legal on weight but I was nervous about being so close on the weight and only having SRW. For me, I needed peace of mind, especially in mountain driving. DW said spend some of the kids inheritance and get a bigger truck. I got the 2017 F-350 6.7 diesel 3.55 DRW. For me there was alot of difference. More power, stability, two more wheels on the ground, and peace of mind. All said, consider a heavier truck. Try them all like has been suggested. I love my F-350.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:12 PM   #75
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This is a valid concern. Three years ago I ask my Allstate agent if we were covered if we were overweight. She called Allstate and yes you are covered. You are covered if you run a stop light, speed, drive drunk or overweight. Your insurance co. can’t pick and choose when you are covered. If they could they would never cover anything.
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Go talk to your insurance agent. Mine told me that no matter how many tickets or wrecks I had Allstate would not drop my policy. She smiled when I said it might get expensive.
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Old 08-15-2018, 06:45 PM   #76
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None of you would question the Kenworth under a Class A diesel pusher but some of you are perfectly fine with a 3/4 ton SRW towing something just as big?????

Buy a truck you are absolutely sure is enough plus at least 10% and if that doesn’t suit you for a daily driver buy a small car. I don’t want to drive our beast to the grocery store it costs too much to waste it’s mileage on that!!
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Old 08-15-2018, 08:51 PM   #77
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Whether you get a DRW or SRW should be based on the weight you are towing. Reading the above, everyone has different trailers with different options and different weights. I have a 2016 3720RL. Which I towed with a 2013 RAM 2500 with a 3.42 rear end. After attending last years rally, I went to a Cat Scale and weight my rig, then weighed my tow vehicle. Go to RVSEF website, there is a tow vehicle calculator and plug in your weights. This is the best way to find out how much TV you need. I found out I was OK on everything except Payload. I was 1000 lbs. overweight. Yes, my truck pulled the trailer just fine. But as others' said, if your in a accident your liability goes thru the roof, and what if you kill someone on the road knowing you were overweight, well you can live with that. This year I'm towing with a 2018 Ram 3500 DRW 4x4 with 3.73 rear end, that has 5370 LBS Payload and 24,700 tow weight capability. I guess it is peace of mind, that I am towing as safe as I can for both my family and others on the road. The real plus is the trailer tows effortlessly and it is more stable. I normally tow at 60 - 65 mph. I will be at 2018 Rally in Goshen, c'you there!
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:39 PM   #78
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I also have a Dodge 2500 that COULD pull my 3810MS, but bigger is safer and I've always believed go big or go home.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:40 PM   #79
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Such good information, the only thing I would add is never trust what your insurance company says, anyone you can talk to has no authority when it comes to a claim, it's someone much higher up that has the company's interests in mind. The only thing you can do is beat them at their own game and not give them a reason to deny.
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Old 08-15-2018, 11:23 PM   #80
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3/4 ton vs 1 ton

We have a 2007 3400 RL Montana that's about 14,000 lbs loaded. THat's 5 lbs over the trailer GVWR. Close enough. We have pulled it with a 2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax (LBZ) and it has done a very fine job of pulling that heavy trailer. We live on the west coast of BC and travelled across Canada a few years ago and up to Alaska last year. The truck did fine. BUT, I've replace the turbo twice. The last time was $6,350 CAD. We loved the truck, but we were overweight, both on the back of the truck (500-800 lbs) and the GCVW, about 2,000 lbs.

Although the truck has done a very good job, I was feeling uncomfortable about being overweight, and in changing the turbo for a second time. We decided to get a 1-ton. A few weeks ago we picked up a 2018 GMC Denali SRW 3500HD, but have not yet pulled the trailer with it. We'll do that next week.

We needed to adjust the hitch height on the trailer as the 1-ton is about 6" higher than the 3/4 ton.

My suggestion - get the 1-ton, if nothing more than peace of mind.
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