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Old 01-25-2020, 06:01 PM   #21
sunshine 1
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Thanks Rohrmann,
I see on the picture that the 80 amp has manual reset, are they better then the automatic reset?
It is also funny that the 3 guys at the RV park all said that those 2 small breakers was not breakers. I guess they didn't know more than me.,��
 
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Old 01-25-2020, 10:00 PM   #22
rohrmann
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This is a link to the manual reset version-
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-C.../dp/B001PYL1VM


This is the link to the auto reset version-
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-1810...motive&sr=1-25


I installed the manual reset version and never have to reset it, as it doesn't trip like the small 40 or 50 amp breaker that was in our rig. Either breaker will work just fine.
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Old 01-26-2020, 08:50 AM   #23
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An auto reset circuit breaker is fine for a circuit that is not continuously energized. The hydraulic pump, for example, is only energized while you hold the switch to actuate it. If the circuit is overloaded the breaker will trip, cool, reset, trip, cool, reset ..... until you release the switch to de-energize the circuit.

But if the circuit was something that may be continuously energized such as a residential fridge, and the circuit was in overload, the breaker would trip/reset/trip/reset continuously until either the breaker completely failed, or the circuit overheated to the point of causing a fire or burned open. In that case, a manual reset breaker would be the better choice.

A manual reset breaker for the pump would be OK also, but would mean having to go open the front compartment to reset the breaker any time it tripped.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:04 AM   #24
sunshine 1
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Thanks guys for the clarification.
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Old 01-27-2020, 10:59 AM   #25
sunshine 1
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When I was out of DC power because of faulty breaker, I tried to run my fridge on the inverter power from my solar panels. I connected a extension cord from the same inverter jack I use for my microwave to the outside fridge plug.It didn't work. Why??? My microwave worked from my inverter.
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:06 AM   #26
sunshine 1
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Could it be, because my extension cord was to long 75 feet??
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Old 01-27-2020, 11:36 AM   #27
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A RV refer requires 12V to the circuit board even if running on 120V AC. No 12V, no cooling.
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Old 01-27-2020, 02:29 PM   #28
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Carl n Susan, thanks for educating me on that issue
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:08 PM   #29
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As to the 75 ft cord... I found a site somewhere several years ago that can tell you the voltage drop for every foot depending on the length and current draw. I know I could run my A/C on a 20A house circuit but went thru a 25 ft cord, to adapter up to 30A, then adapter up to 50A. The cord would be pretty hot when the A/C runs for a while. So 75 ft. could be showing a very large drop if you are using much amperage.
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:56 PM   #30
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Amazon has them.
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Old 02-05-2020, 04:03 PM   #31
Lethbridge Sparky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshine 1 View Post
When I came to set up camp this afternoon, all my 12 volt dc power did not work.
My batteries were fully charged, I have 720 watts solar. My fridge and water pump does not work unless I run the generator. I have checked all the fuses and turned the breakers of and on. I have turned the battery switch of and on.
Does anyone have any ideas why my dc power does not work. I have checked all the battery terminals they are tight.
I had his happen to me twice now on two different units. Both times I traced the problem to dirty contacts on the main relay that switches between battery and shore power. Cleaned with emery board. All fixed
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