Fan Noise At Fuse Box - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

mhs4771 · 08-23-2018, 10:23 AM

I know when using Jumper Cables, they recommend Negative last and to the frame or motor away from the battery. Don't think I ever gave it much thought when just changing batteries.

Lenny K · 08-23-2018, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeffba

sometimes I see a posting and I cannot help,but have fun with it

Well I just saw a source on the internet that says to remove the positive and another that says to remove the negative.

Is me of the internet that is confused?

I was talking about reliable sources...lol

CarWin · 08-23-2018, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lenny K

I was talking about reliable sources...lol

IF it’s on the internet , it’s got to be true...

mtlakejim · 08-23-2018, 10:46 AM

Ok. I just know for decades we always pulled the hot wire only on cars. Then someone said that caused problems with the computers so it went to pull the negative first. That is contrary to all electricians and code practice but it’s what the mechanics were saying

Personally I don’t think it matters on an RV.

Regardless the proper switch and fuse installation is ALWAYS ON THE HOT, RED+ leg on 12 volt DC. PERIOD! At least in the USA

mtlakejim · 08-23-2018, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhs4771

I know when using Jumper Cables, they recommend Negative last and to the frame or motor away from the battery. Don't think I ever gave it much thought when just changing batteries.

LOL and I was always taught you hook up ground first and on dead battery first. But I suppose there is a highly unlikely chance you could have a fire if there were sparks on top of gassing battery and since you are hooking ground up away from the battery and spark only happens when you hook up second terminal.....

But if you ask me all this is much a do about nothing

The important thing is make sure you install switches and fuses on the positive leg

Bierp · 08-23-2018, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarWin

IF it’s on the internet , it’s got to be true...

"Everything on the internet is true!"
-Abraham Lincoln

beeje · 08-23-2018, 02:46 PM

I was always taught to remove the negative first and to reinstall it last. Does not have anything to do with damaging something electronic. It has to do with safety. If you were to remove the positive cable first or install it last and happen to touch a metal grounded surface with your tool you create a dead short and could possibly have a exploding battery situation.

Texan · 08-23-2018, 03:19 PM

Who's on first

mtlakejim · 08-23-2018, 03:26 PM

Oh brother. Y’all do it anyway ya want just make darn sure the switches and fuses are on the hot side.......,,

tulwick1 · 08-26-2018, 06:36 PM

Beeje is correct. Being a retired aircraft mech you always remove the neg first. Should your wrench touch the metal frame the polarity is the same so nothing happens. If it was the positive side a battery has lots of amps. Could get serious burns or melt holes in the vehicle. Who knows what the battery may do. Install the neg last.

Professor Steve · 08-26-2018, 07:16 PM

Well gents sorry for starting that. I’m more confused than before except I will install a kill switch to the rig for storage. I am grateful for your help as we enjoyed a nice short jaunt to the Oregon Coast. Actually had some time to catch up on some owners manuals. Jim I do have the Progressive unit and blinking green light means I’m ok. Texan was my favorite reply!

mtlakejim · 08-26-2018, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Professor Steve

Well gents sorry for starting that. I’m more confused than before except I will install a kill switch to the rig for storage. I am grateful for your help as we enjoyed a nice short jaunt to the Oregon Coast. Actually had some time to catch up on some owners manuals. Jim I do have the Progressive unit and blinking green light means I’m ok. Texan was my favorite reply!

This wasn’t anything you should see the debates over trucks lol

I just replaced a WFCO 65 amp with a Progressive 9200 series 85 amp. Really like having the status light

laverdur · 08-26-2018, 10:48 PM

my converter has a light that blinks at different rates to reflect the condition of the batteries. Check the manual for your converter.

Fred S. · 08-27-2018, 01:53 PM

Now I am getting confused, when I could not figure out why batteries were going down in storage, Camping World service manger said disconnect your negative cables, that's what I have been doing, just taking off the negative 2 cables but I noticed when I hook them up I always get a small spark. Is this normal.

jimcol · 08-27-2018, 02:08 PM

It is. There is always a small 12vdc load. That is why we disconnect the ground wire. The load is the source of the spark when you connect the ground cable.

tulwick1 · 08-27-2018, 02:10 PM

That small spark is the reason your battery is going down. There are some Items that are on all the time with little battery drain. Over time they will drain a battery. Best way to stop is install a open switch in the battery circuit or just remove the cable. Switch should be in the positive side of the Battery circuit. Some have a switch installed from the factory.

GeorgeP. · 08-27-2018, 07:14 PM

The reason to disconnect negitive first and hook up last is a lead acid battery gives off hydrogen gas when charging and removing negitive prevents sparking or arching and possible explosion of battery, I was a professional firefighter for 34 years and have seen the results of a exploding battery.

Ed and Carole · 08-31-2018, 02:29 PM

Some converters do have a small light on them. Itol converters have a light. When light is blinking it is charging the batteries. When light is on and not blinking batteries should be charged.

Disconnect the negative first.

Also, when working on the 12 volts system and Rig is plugged into electric power shut off your converter even through you have disconnected the batteries.

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