Remote thermostat - Page 4 - Montana Owners Club

Broome101 · 03-06-2005, 10:05 AM

Mazeff, I hate to burst your bubble but I also asked them about splicing into the existing frost control sensor they said no. operated different and would freeze up on you if you used that, it had to be placed into the coil as diagram they sent with ti showed. The existing one if you follow it up does not go into the coil it goes to compressor only, so it's different.

mazeeff · 03-06-2005, 11:58 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

Mazeff, I hate to burst your bubble but I also asked them about splicing into the existing frost control sensor they said no. operated different and would freeze up on you if you used that, it had to be placed into the coil as diagram they sent with ti showed. The existing one if you follow it up does not go into the coil it goes to compressor only, so it's different.

Oh well! That will give me something to do next weekend. Any idea what the old sensor does? It plugged into a connector labeled "sensor", so I thought it was the freeze guard. Did you route the new freez guard to the outside, and then poke it into the evaporator coils, or did you poke it in from the inside? Did you leave the old sensor installed?

mazeeff · 03-06-2005, 01:30 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Broome101

Mazeff, I hate to burst your bubble but I also asked them about splicing into the existing frost control sensor they said no. operated different and would freeze up on you if you used that, it had to be placed into the coil as diagram they sent with ti showed. The existing one if you follow it up does not go into the coil it goes to compressor only, so it's different.

Deleted.

mazeeff · 03-06-2005, 02:19 PM

OK. Here is my attempt to describe replacing the 2005 remote controlled thermostat with the digital Duotherm Comfort Control Center.

Called Dometic (1-800-544-4881) to ask about the upgrade kit. Talked to Pat. Answered a few questions about what had been replaced and tried. Answered all the questions properly, and was told that I would be sent a free kit. The kit arrived today! What service. The kit includes a Duo-therm comfort control system digital thermostat (Part # 3109228.001), and a "Electric Kit" (part # 3109226.005). Here are pictures of everything that came in the kit. The four long bolts are not used. They are normally used to bolt the inside and outside units together.

Installation Instructions:

1. Go to this link and print out the service manual for the DuoTherm CCC. Study it prior to performing the swap.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc5.pdf

Turn off both the 110 volt A/C and the 12 volt power.

2. Remove the filter cover and filter from the inside ceiling A/C unit. The cover is removed by simply pushing two tabs and removing. Once removed, you will see this. Make a note of all the wiring connections and color coding, just in case you have to revert back to the remote system! On the left side of the of the picture, you can see the grey wire nuts that connect the furnace wires, and the yellow wire nuts that connect +12V and Gnd. The right side shows the heavy yellow 120V line.

3. Remove the metal plate, covering the 110v wiring. It is held in by one phillips screw. Once removed, you will see this. 120v wiring, and freeze control spade lugs connected to two black wires. Remove the spade lugs, and 120v wire nuts.

4. Remove the white A/C control connector from the side of the box, unplug the rj11 connector which connects the control unit to the wall unit, and then remove the wire nuts from the 12 volt feed and the furnace connectors.

5. Remove the two sheet metal screws securing the control box, and remove it.

6. Mount the new control into the structure, and secure it with two sheet metal screws. It is easier to go ahead and connect the 120v lines prior to mount the box. Connect up the white A/C control connector. Plug in the rj11 connector into the receptacle closest to the edge of the box. Re-connect the 12 volt and furnace lines.

A. Large wht/red (+12v) wire from trailer to large red wire on control unit.
B. Large wht (GND) wire from trailer to large blk wire on control unit.
C. Small wht wire (Furnace) from trailer to blue wire on control unit.
D. Small red wire (Furnace) from trailer to blue wire on control unit.

I highly reccomend crimping all the connections and not using wire nuts. Crimping provides a much more solid connection in a moving vehicle!

The yellow wires are unused. The furnace lines on the new box are blue. wiring order on the furnace lines does not matter. Here is the new box mounted. (not all wires are crimped yet!)

7. Route the new freeze control shown here to the evaporator. The evaporator is the set of coils in the ceiling, that can freeze up and cause problems. Follow the instructions that come with the new freeze guard. It is a bit tight and tricky to get the sensor postioned properly in the evaporater fins. I used a tie wrap to further secure the sensor wire, just to make sure that it would not fall out of the evaporater. Plug the blue freeze guard connector into the P5 (blue) socket in the control unit. The old freeze guard can not be used! I simply tie-wrapped the old freeze guard wire off to the side to get it out of the way, and could use it, if I ever went back to the remote system (not likely!)

8. Make sure that dip switch #5 (Furnace) is flipped on. All other switches should be off. Double check all wiring, mount new metal plate to cover 110v wiring.

9. Remove the two phillips screws from the remote wall unit shown here. Remove the rj11 connector from the back of the wall unit. Make sure that is does not fall back into the wall!

10. Mount the new wall unit to the wall. Plug the rj11 cable into the thermostat. Final installation will look like this.

11. After power is restored, and the unit is turned on, the unit will display "EE" as shown in the previous picture. Reset the unit by holding the "mode" and "zone" buttons in while turning power on. The display will turn to "FF", and the unit should work if you hit the mode button. When you initially turn on the A/C, it can take 3-5 minutes for the unit to turn on. This is normal. The time will seem like forever, as you wonder if you wired it up correctly or not! Test all functions to vierify that everything works. Sit back and enjoy!

I hope I did not forget any steps! Total time was a little over an hour for the total installation. Good luck.

campbud · 03-12-2005, 01:02 PM

mazeeff
Did you route the new freez guard to the outside, and then poke it into the evaporator coils, or did you poke it in from the inside? Did you leave the old sensor installed?

Ok I am confused about this, mine has a new one to use. So just follow them instructions?

mazeeff · 03-13-2005, 03:09 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by campbud

mazeeff
Did you route the new freez guard to the outside, and then poke it into the evaporator coils, or did you poke it in from the inside? Did you leave the old sensor installed?

Ok I am confused about this, mine has a new one to use. So just follow them instructions?

Yes. It is a bit confusing. The instructions are kinda vague. I poked the new freeze guard sensor through the coils from the inside on the same side as the 12 volt hook up wires. Be real careful when pushing the sensor through the coils. They are very easy to bend. I left the old one intact and simply tied up the unused wires. We are currently camping and used both the furnace and A/C extensivily. It works a lot better than the remote system!

Montana_3378 · 03-17-2005, 05:57 AM

Dometic Corporation would appreciate the opportunity to address any concerns you may have regarding your remote thermostat. Please contact us at CustomerSupportCenter@DometicUSA.com or call 800-544-4881. Please reference KMCR in subject line or when calling. We look forward to helping you solve the issues you are experiencing.

RVWheels · 03-17-2005, 08:07 AM

Thank you Dometic Corporation for offering your assistance via the MOC Forum.

RVWheels/MOC Admin

Parrothead · 03-19-2005, 03:39 AM

I emailed Dometic at 9:52 am. Dometic called me at 10:50. My replacement parts are on the way.

rames14 · 03-21-2005, 01:54 PM

I haven't checked back on this post in a while, because I wanted to install my new unit first. About a month ago Dometic sent our dealer a replacement kit with new remote, control board and wall control. I am confused now (even more than normal). If they are replacing others with the new Duotherm, why did they send me the replacement remote system? I sent an e-mail to Duotherm asking that question. I was going to work on this Friday, so this is very timely. I hope Dometic will be as quick to answer mine as they were for Parrothead.

rames14 · 03-22-2005, 06:59 AM

I was very pleased to receive a call on my cell phone today from Dometic. They are monitoring the thread to make sure that Montana owners are satisfied. It looks like I will be installing my replacement remote system this weekend (if possible). If that doesn't work, we'll go to the Duotherm system. Better late then never. We've been discussing this issue now for six months and I have been through my dealer, Keystone and Dometic. Hopefully this will resolve the issue. I will keep everyone posted, but it looks like we're going to get resolution.

tractor · 03-23-2005, 12:15 PM

I am having a new 3500rl built,Is this a problem I can look forward to or can I have it corrected a the factory.My old camper thermostat was worthless so I replaced it with a digital hunter,Worked like a champ.

mjcjtroy · 03-23-2005, 02:37 PM

I would not have the remote system put in your new 3500rl. Request the Duo-therm Comfort Control. It uses the same hookups as the Dometic remote. We changed ours to the Comfort Control and are extremely pleased.

carlson · 03-24-2005, 02:30 AM

Called Dometic yesterday and spoke to Bob, reference to uneven heat in our 3400RL.
We spoke at great lenght and he was nvery pleasent to deal with.
He is sending me a 18' control cable.
He asked if I would do some experimenting for him.
I will remove the wall mounted control and attach the cable and contect the cable to the control unit in the air conditioner.
With moving the control head to different locations to see if it makes a difference in the 8 degree difference in temperature that I am getting.

carlson · 03-24-2005, 02:36 AM

Tractor,
If you are having a 3400RL built, I would ask them to move the location of the wall mounted control unit.
In my 2005 3400RL they put it on the rear wall of the stationary part between the kitchen and entertainment unit slides.
When the slides are closed the unit is in the small space between the wall and the slide.
I think I would like the unit in the middle of the trailer not the back 1/3 or atleast on the same stationary wall but facing the interior.

mazeeff · 03-24-2005, 02:44 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by carlson

Called Dometic yesterday and spoke to Bob, reference to uneven heat in our 3400RL.
We spoke at great lenght and he was nvery pleasent to deal with.
He is sending me a 18' control cable.
He asked if I would do some experimenting for him.
I will remove the wall mounted control and attach the cable and contect the cable to the control unit in the air conditioner.
With moving the control head to different locations to see if it makes a difference in the 8 degree difference in temperature that I am getting.

Good luck. I already tried this, and it made no difference. I also took a highly accurate digital thermometer, and measured the temp right at the wall unit. The temp at the wall unit was no different than the rest of the trailer. You may have to push the issue with them, and strongly ask for the non-remote system to be sent to you. Since replacing mine, I have been extremely happy. I set the Comfort control digital thermostat at 76 degrees, and the trailer stays at 76 degrees!

carlson · 03-24-2005, 12:20 PM

Mike,
Thanks for the info.
Today I was out working in the trailer and set the heat to 60 degrees, the furance came on and after awhile it went off, I thought it was still cool in there and it was 43 degrees.
The furance came on and off and never got to above 46 degrees.
So I brought it up to 70 degrees and it warmed up to 54 degrees.
I will try the cable when it get here and give Bob a call back with the results.
If it is not any better I am going for the wall unit.
I am also going to move it from the back side of the wall.

rames14 · 03-26-2005, 11:51 AM

Well, got my new remote, wall unit and control box installed on Friday. With big arms, it is difficult to get the freeze plug up in the coil, but, finished the job. When I turned it on, heat, so the wait was on. Unfortunately, this unit is off about 15 degrees. Wrote Dometic today, so, hopefully next weekend I will be putting in the new Duotherm unit. I will keep everyone posted. Sounds like the remote is doomed to failure.

mazeeff · 03-26-2005, 12:11 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by rames14

Well, got my new remote, wall unit and control box installed on Friday. With big arms, it is difficult to get the freeze plug up in the coil, but, finished the job. When I turned it on, heat, so the wait was on. Unfortunately, this unit is off about 15 degrees. Wrote Dometic today, so, hopefully next weekend I will be putting in the new Duotherm unit. I will keep everyone posted. Sounds like the remote is doomed to failure.

Ron. Your test proves the remote system is junk! I replaced mine with the non-remote system a couple of weeks ago, and the performance as been flawless. One neat feature of the replacement system, is that the fan speed varies when on A/C, depending on how big a difference between programmed temp and actual temp. What this means, is that after you reach your target temp, and start to cycle, the fan speed is generally "low". This really cuts down on the noise.

OntMont · 03-27-2005, 11:17 AM

[quote
Ron. Your test proves the remote system in junk! I replaced mine with the non-remote system a couple of weeks ago, and the performance as been flawless. One neat feature of the replacement system, is that the fan speed varies when on A/C, depending on how big a difference between programmed temp and actual temp. What this means, is that after you reach your target temp, and start to cycle, the fan speed is generally "low". This really cuts down on the noise.
[/quote]

Ron,
That sounds very interesting, can you tell me exactly what you used as a replacement? Any further info you wish to divulge?

John.

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