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Old 03-03-2018, 07:50 PM   #1
MARK A
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Disc brake progress

I am purposely taking my time with this but I got sick last week but back at it now. Iíll post pictures as I go along. Brake lines tomorrow!

Mark
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Old 03-03-2018, 10:08 PM   #2
BuilderBob
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Looks like a good and clean install so far Mark
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Old 03-03-2018, 10:43 PM   #3
MARK A
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Thanks Bob, It's not difficult at all, but it sure makes my OCD go tick.....tick..

Mark
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:50 AM   #4
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Looks good. I ran the wires to our disc mod to the pin box junction box as well. That box was so full of wires and wire nuts that I added a 1" extension ring (Home Depot). Wire fishing was probably the hardest part of the job.

It amazes me that RV manufacturers leave such a bunch of dangly visible wiring. Ours wasn't as bad as yours and several others have pictured - that is until I looked behind the basement bulkhead, Lots of wire ties and a few cable clamps reduced that tangle somewhat
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Old 03-04-2018, 08:31 AM   #5
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It would take solid day of rerouting/organizing the rats nest of wiring behind my basement wall. It is on the "to do" list but not top priority yet.

Following this thread with great interest, as this is 1 mod that IS priority.
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Old 03-04-2018, 10:28 AM   #6
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Dave,
I feel like I lucked out. I don’t care for the way the videos show pulling them between the skin and the trailer frame so I gave this a shot. Poked my fish tape in the factory loom tube and it came out on the street side just above the propane tank where the others are! Literally 3 minutes.

Mark
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:21 PM   #7
offroad71
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Wire loom

When I did mine, I spliced in right at the wire loom in the front compartment. No fishing of the wires.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:17 PM   #8
MARK A
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Originally Posted by offroad71 View Post
When I did mine, I spliced in right at the wire loom in the front compartment. No fishing of the wires.
I did look at that route, but for me I wouldíve had to remove all 4 6V batteries to get to the wires where they come out. I also didnít see factory terminations and I have an aversion to chopping into factory harnesses. I opted to go out where there was already terminations and access. The factory couldíve made it easier for sure.

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Old 03-04-2018, 02:50 PM   #9
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Really like the detailed post with pics!!
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Old 03-04-2018, 03:16 PM   #10
MARK A
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Glad you like it. More to follow, just finished the long brake line install, and called it for the day. It’s really hard to make this 1/4” line look good, but it’s not too bad. The drop frame up front presents a challenge with the side skirting wrapped all the way under.

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Old 03-04-2018, 05:21 PM   #11
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Glad you like it. More to follow, just finished the long brake line install, and called it for the day. Itís really hard to make this 1/4Ē line look good, but itís not too bad. The drop frame up front presents a challenge with the side skirting wrapped all the way under.

Mark

Mark - I used a flex hose at that frame drop after ruining a couple pieces of brake line. Do you have a good line bending tool such as this one. It's for 3/16 but the 1/4" is identical. The flaring tool is not for standard 45 degree fittings but the 37 degree SS AN that were used on my street rod
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:34 PM   #12
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Dave W ... I hope your street rod's brake lines weren't made with the Rigid 37 degree flaring tool. You really need double flares on any brake line ... OEM uses double flares for a reason. Look at what kind of flare is on pre-made brake lines you buy at an auto parts store. If they used stainless line ... it's near impossible to double flare with a hand tool. If your Rigid tool has the double flare adaptor ... disregard my concern. What I'm saying here for others is ... a single flare on your fivers brake lines if you are doing a conversion is not a wise choice.
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:53 PM   #13
MARK A
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Mark - I used a flex hose at that frame drop after ruining a couple pieces of brake line. Do you have a good line bending tool such as this one. It's for 3/16 but the 1/4" is identical. The flaring tool is not for standard 45 degree fittings but the 37 degree SS AN that were used on my street rod
Dave,
I do have a bending tool, I just made the line work when the frame rail went back up. Our trailer's kitchen slide begins right there also so it wasn't too tough, just not quite like I had it pictured in my mind . I haven't ruined anything yet but I think I'm out of the woods!

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Old 03-04-2018, 08:27 PM   #14
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Dave W ... I hope your street rod's brake lines weren't made with the Rigid 37 degree flaring tool. You really need double flares on any brake line ... OEM uses double flares for a reason. Look at what kind of flare is on pre-made brake lines you buy at an auto parts store. If they used stainless line ... it's near impossible to double flare with a hand tool. If your Rigid tool has the double flare adaptor ... disregard my concern. What I'm saying here for others is ... a single flare on your fivers brake lines if you are doing a conversion is not a wise choice.
Yes, my street rod has 100% 37 degree fittings on every line, be it brakes, fuel, oil or vacuum. But with that said, it also has the correct AN 37 degree fittings. No you do not use 45 degree double flared lines with these fittings. 37 doilegree fittings are not conventional parts but were developed originally for the military during WW2, i.e. Army -Navy. They are 3 piece fittings - the 37 degree male, a sleeve that goes on the line to support the flare and a nut to hold it all together. They are so positive sealing that every NASCAR, NHRA and most other race organizations vehicles are required to use them and each have dozens of them - as are most military vehicles. My car has had these fittings with zero leaks for over 10 years.

I'll post a couple photos in the AM of what they look like when I get back to the desktop 'puter
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:31 PM   #15
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I know what an AN fitting is ... worked at Boeing for 34 years. I guess I'm behind on accepted brake line hardware.
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Old 03-05-2018, 06:51 AM   #16
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I know what an AN fitting is ... worked at Boeing for 34 years. I guess I'm behind on accepted brake line hardware.
Mark - first of all, I apologize for the hijack. After this, we'll get back to your mod

For sure aircraft use AN fittings by the bucketful. Our GE gas and steam turbines used Swage Loc compression fittings instead

OK - here's a view of my street rod chassis. Every fitting you see is an AN and installed on either SS tubing or SS braided line. The lines to each disc brake, front and back are AN construction and DOT approved. Unfortunately the photos I took during the actual brake installation have gone away somewhere:
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:51 AM   #17
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Have right at it! I’m learning the whole time! LOL
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:27 AM   #18
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Very nice street rod!

I have run literally hundreds of miles of SST in the oilfield during my 30 year career selling hazardous chemicals. Many applications at continuous use at several thousands of psi. Some even with Hastalloy tubing and fittings for acid service! Some of the deep water projects had multimillion dollar control tubing bundles with unspliced tubing runs up to 18 miles long!

Even with all that experience I consider myself a rank amateur compared to the companies that ran control lines on the platforms. I have seen racks with over 50 SST lines payed out perfectly thru a dozen turns. There were people out there that did nothing but run tubing for a living!

But offshore not a single flare fitting it was all Parker or Swagloc Feral fittings. Many on lines with upwards of 10k psi!
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Old 03-05-2018, 08:57 AM   #19
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Looking at your master cylinder/control unit you are using the Complete system from Performance brake ? I am really interested in that system for my 5r.
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Old 03-05-2018, 09:29 AM   #20
MARK A
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Looking at your master cylinder/control unit you are using the Complete system from Performance brake ? I am really interested in that system for my 5r.
I got all my stuff from Bill at Stopyourtrailer.com it was reasonably priced and heís very helpful. Incidentally Titan and Kodiak use the same rotors and Dexter has purchased Titan. My boxes had zero markings. The kit is all inclusive however I did replace the bearings and races with Timken (recommended by Dave here on the forum)as they come with China bearings. Peace of mind, and after inspection I am glad I did the Timkens are clearly a superior product.

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