Making parts

[rpkittle1]

When we purchased our 2011 Montana used in 2019 it did not come with a rail bar to the upstairs. At out age this becomes a necessity so I installed one.

One problem was the door to the bedroom would hit the rail. I cut a notch in the door so we could close the door all the way. This left a ragged edge which we covered with tape.

Not the best looking but worked for a while. I thought about a custom made piece to cover the notch but was worried about the cost. I decided to design my own protector to save on cost. I knew it had to be 3d printed because of the custom angle of the notch. I learned have to design in 3d and then checked on the price of printing. I sent the design to a company that just asked for a 3d file and they would quote a price., $220. What if I was just off a little bit on the design and had to print again, $220. I checked on the price of a 3d printer and the one a chose, $180 reconditioned. A few supplies and the total was less that the price of printing twice. I was lucky and the printed part was right. Now we have a solid plastic piece in place to protect the raw edge of the wood on the door. Looks good too.

I am planning to travel with the 3d printer. I am rebuilding to back of the 5th wheel to carry the printer. Lots of nice things you can make with a 3d printer.

[rpkittle1]

I also added a handle in the toilet room.

[Carl n Susan]

Where you able for find studs for the rails, and if yes, what did you use?

[Mikendebbie]

Carl - I installed a similar handrail that we bought at Lowe’s. I used a $13 stud finder, marked both edges of the stud using painters masking tape. Then I measured up off the steps to locate the distance for grabbing the rail that felt right to DW. Then I marked where my screw holes would go and drilled some pilot holes with a small bit. I located the lower rail starting point first (according to DW's natural reach), then the rail assembly sort of swings into place to meet the in-wall stud. I did not measure up to get the 39"...that is where it naturally fell. Can’t remember what screws I used but they were probably 1” lg. The rail came out great - very sturdy…and with the dark color we chose you would be hard pressed to know it was not OEM.

Edit: the grab bar we chose has "square" wall attachments. The sketch below shows the height dimension to the mid-corner wall attachment from the stair tread. The bottom screen shot is the grab bar we bought - but I don’t remember it being $156…I thought it was just shy of $100. I think when I was all finished - I found a paper template in the box that would have made it a little easier. Look for the template!!

[mlh]

Thesis 3D Printers are amazing. The real value is making prototypes. Where a machine shop will take days a 3D printer will take hours and not tie up hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of machines. I wish I would have had one when making a new product.
Lynwood

[rpkittle1]

I did not use any studs. For the rail at the stairs I used large metal wall anchors and screws to hold the rail. Very sturdy. For the one in the toilet room I drilled through the wall and used metal backer plates. The metal is hidden by the medicine cabinet.

[Carl n Susan]

Thanks Mikendebbie and rpkittle1 the extra info helps a lot.

[wjg315]

What 3d design software are you using?

[rpkittle1]

I use Selfcad for most of the design because it is simpler to use. I also have Blender but it is more complex but will somethings Selfcad won't. I use the free versions so I know I am not useing the latest and greatest.

[Mark7]

Very impressive work! Thanks for sharing.