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Old 05-26-2019, 02:41 PM   #21
saber707
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Originally Posted by Woodworker View Post
I own a 3811MS, set up on a cement pad.
I want to buy a stabilizer tripod because sometimes I feel some bumps when DW is walking throughout, she feels the same when I'm walking through.

What is a decent brand that will do the job without breaking the bank?

Please and thanks.
All my friends that have had them (6 or 8) have given them away. Can't tell any difference with them. and they're a pain to haul.
 
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Old 05-26-2019, 08:54 PM   #22
CaptnJohn
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All my friends that have had them (6 or 8) have given them away. Can't tell any difference with them. and they're a pain to haul.
Now those 6 or 8 are trying to unload them on another,,,,,
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:22 AM   #23
Dave W
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We don't have auto leveling so while parked for most of the summer at one site, use 2 of the BAL X-Chocks and 2 left from an earlier 5er now spare stabilizer screw jacks at the frame drop down on our HC. I also have a pair of homemade 'strong arms' that were used on our last 5er about to be installed (forgot I had them). This takes about 95% of the jiggle out. The remaining 5% will stay as long as I have tires with flexible sidewalls. While I've never used a tripod pin gadget. It to me looks like one more thing for me to add more scars to my body and lumps to my head.
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:26 AM   #24
DebNJim B
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Originally Posted by Woodworker View Post
I'll try the wooden blocks under the Lippert Level up so that the landing gear doesn't have to extend so far.
We have the level up system and use the Anderson blocks that attach to the jack pads with magnets and we get little or no movement. Putting in a concrete pad this year and hope for things to be even better.
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Old 05-27-2019, 08:35 AM   #25
Figit090
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I read plenty about tripods not working. We use two pairs of EAZ LIFT telescopic jacks through the length of the RV, and while I have purchased the Steadyfast system, we've been happy without it.

We do full time living, and I will install the Steadyfast system, but we realized a dramatic reduction in bouncing by using the 4 heavy lift jacks and four slide stabilizers. FWIW the Steadyfast system is built VERY well and I look forward to using it to stop the side-to-side shaking.

Here are the heavy lift jacks that can (literally) lift one end of the RV off the ground (6k lb capacity, so two easily can hold one end up). I've used them to do that, in fact. (do not take my word as safe and proceed at your own risk they aren't MEANT for that)

They work well to eliminate up-down bouncing allowed by chassis flex and suspension movement. place two in front of your front axle near the entryway, roughly halway between the axle and your landing gear. Place another two behind the rear axle, halfway from there to the rear stabilizer jacks.

With that, the RV is basically sitting SOLIDLY on the ground in 6-8 locations. 6 if you have folding jacks, 8 if you have the stiffer scissor jacks. My folding jacks can move too much to call solid.

Adding the JT strongarm or Steadyfast system should eliminate nearly ALL movement, but for an easy-to-add jack system these work great. DO NOT buy the cheaper model of Camco jacks, their capacity is suited for small trailers and I would use it for minor stability enhancement but would never actually put most of the RV's weight on those. The whole set of four cheap jacks has the same capacity as ONE of the proper jacks, this link is to the heavy duty ones that can support most of the rig's weight:

https://www.amazon.com/EAZ-LIFT-4886...ateway&sr=8-33

For a cheap and good option to stabilize shaky slides, pick the appropriate set of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Husky-81080-S...s%2C198&sr=8-3

DO NOT jack the slides up when using supports for them. They should be used per the directions, and only limit downward travel by barely touching the slide support. They do reduce bounce this way! Long term campers be advised to check them for settling so your rig doesn't sink and cause these to lift your slide!

Use lithium grease on the threads of both and you'll be happier by the way. screw jacks should always have some kind of lubrication and corrosion protection. Turn much eaiser that way.
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Old 05-28-2019, 07:32 AM   #26
RichardD
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We have a 3810MS and we very little movement without a pin tripod. We use a pair of adjustable chock block between the tires. As long as the tires are in contact with the ground these chocks will eliminate 60-70% of the forward to back movement.
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Old 05-29-2019, 05:47 PM   #27
druryg
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Originally Posted by RichardD View Post
We have a 3810MS and we very little movement without a pin tripod. We use a pair of adjustable chock block between the tires. As long as the tires are in contact with the ground these chocks will eliminate 60-70% of the forward to back movement.
Missed the chalks on my post. They are important as well. The Elephant feet and clamp type chalks between the tires fixed us just fine for many years! Having your front jacks as low as possible helps even more. Tripods are not worth the money spent and take up valuable space!
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