Sewer Pipe move

[mountaineer2010]

Sorry to ask this here but have not found what I am looking for else where. I have a 2010 345DBQ with two sewer out lets. What I would like to do is route the one in the back to the one in the front. It is a pain to have to move the 5er to hook up and dump the rear tanks. I will have to route over the axles to get to the front main pipe, has anyone done this and if so how did it work, or does anyone see a problem with doing this. I think there is room over the axles to do this mod but just want to check with all of you first. Thanks for the help.

[kab449]

Don't think its possible. You will never be able to completely drain the tank that has to flow over the axle. I've seen people with the setup you have use a Y and connect both tanks to the Y with hoses and then take one hose to the pipe in the ground.

[racerjoe]

For one thing, you would be creating traps that as the tank loses volume,waste will start to settle in the low spots. Most black tanks have a short run to empty properly. It would work if you could run a straight pipe from one end to the other,something you could flush out

[dieselguy]

On my 3150 ... the galley tank drain line is run over the axle into the main drain line ... don't see why you couldn't do similar.

[HOOK]

The galley tank has no solids passing through. The "Y" is the simple answer.

[dieselguy]

All this brings to mind Robin Williams in "RV" while they were at the sewer dump.

[DQDick]

All too true. When they add IS they have to deal with the kitchen tank on rigs like mine, but as Larry says we hopefully aren't dealing with much in the way of solids and that line is significantly smaller.

[bw2]

Agree with all, it is all about the "drop" of the sewer line.

[Art-n-Marge]

I agree with everyonea that the drop and that the drop is continuously in a downward direction with NO humps or dips! The Y at the dump with both sewer lines to this Y should work. The most difficult part is getting both sewer outlets to slope to the Y. Even though I have only one sewer dump, I found the best system is gutters that the angle the hose to the dump. Then I have different heights of standoffs to support it. This has worked out very well.

I am very close to getting a macerator style of dump and this should all go away. In a dual outlet rig, it would have to be portable to each outlet.

I would try to eliminate any chance of Black effluent hanging around in my rig including any sewer lines.

[dieselguy]

Such worry about solids ... every day at my job it is positively documented and verified ... s__t flows downhill.

[DQDick]

You should have been there when I pressurized the sewer line. It will fly sideways under certain conditions.

[HamRad]

What is this pressurization that you speak of? I've been RVing for about 10 years now and connected and disconnected the sewer hose many times and NEVER have experienced any pressure in the lines. Please help me to understand what you're talking about. Thanks, Dennis.

quote:Originally posted by DQDick

You should have been there when I pressurized the sewer line. It will fly sideways under certain conditions.

[mountaineer2010]

quote:Originally posted by mountaineer2010

Sorry to ask this here but have not found what I am looking for else where. I have a 2010 345DBQ with two sewer out lets. What I would like to do is route the one in the back to the one in the front. It is a pain to have to move the 5er to hook up and dump the rear tanks. I will have to route over the axles to get to the front main pipe, has anyone done this and if so how did it work, or does anyone see a problem with doing this. I think there is room over the axles to do this mod but just want to check with all of you first. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for all the comments. Let me try to explain this a little better, What I have is a 3 inch dump in front of the tires and one 3 inch dump in the back of the tires. The front is for the front toilet, ,shower and sink and the back is for the back toilet and sink. I do have a smaller drain going over the axles for the galley drain to the front 3 inch. To hook up the back tank it would have two 90's then a strait run over axles for about 6 ft to the front 3 inch with a sweeping 90 to hook into the 3 inch it will also have a slop to the front ( hot is on the left and S&%T runs down hill). I want to do all of this to help with the draining without having to move the hose. I know I can do the Y thing just don't want to be on you tube with it all over me. We don't do a lot of full hookups we do mostly smaller campgrounds where you have to dump on the why out, It is a real pain to drain the front then move hose to the back.It has gotten to be such a pain that I dump when I get home in the home dump station. I also have 4 drain handles. I want to change two of them out to remote electric drains when I have the extra $$$$. If you all think this will not work that is fine just trying to make my life a little easier. Hope I have made this a little easier.

[8.1al]

I don't understand your problem with a Y. One hose from the front,one from the rear, both into the Y then one hose from the Y to the drain

[mountaineer2010]

quote:Originally posted by 8.1al

I don't understand your problem with a Y. One hose from the front,one from the rear, both into the Y then one hose from the Y to the drain

I don't have any problem with the Y I just am trying to make one hookup and one dump without moving the hose, just easier I thought. and what everyone else thought about the idea is all.

[8.1al]

Sorry for the DUH moment, I've been thinking long term in one place. If I were somewhere for just a short time I wouldn't want to be fussing with 2 hoses,Y fitting, et.

[Ozz]

OK, I will try and put my 2 cents worth in here.
If I understand the situation..
If you can run the back to the front, or the front to the back and hook them together, why not?
You must have 1/4" per foot drain to keep the solids and the liquids together so they will drain right. You must use a sewer type Y so there is a smooth drain fitting, you also must support the drain pipe every 3 or 4 feet, so it is sturdy under a load, and while traveling. The longer run should not be a problem if you keep to the 1/4" per foot and rinse good.
I see your problem and agree it would be something I would modify.
Dumping is a pain in the keester enough without moving to complete the task.
Now measure to see if the run will be Ok with 1/4" per foot.
Maybe run both of them to the middle with one electric valve??
Ozz

[kab449]

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

OK, I will try and put my 2 cents worth in here.
If I understand the situation..
If you can run the back to the front, or the front to the back and hook them together, why not?
You must have 1/4" per foot drain to keep the solids and the liquids together so they will drain right. You must use a sewer type Y so there is a smooth drain fitting, you also must support the drain pipe every 3 or 4 feet, so it is sturdy under a load, and while traveling. The longer run should not be a problem if you keep to the 1/4" per foot and rinse good.
I see your problem and agree it would be something I would modify.
Dumping is a pain in the keester enough without moving to complete the task.
Now measure to see if the run will be Ok with 1/4" per foot.
Maybe run both of them to the middle with one electric valve??
Ozz

The biggest obstacle is jumping the axle either going front or rear to connect the two discharges. Going to make one big trap where there should be none.

[Ozz]

Yes Keith, it is all predicated on the 1/4" per foot drop, my kitchen is real tight coming out of the bottom cover, so I think it would work for quite a few feet.

[Ozz]

One more thing, when you use 90's on your drain pipe use the long sweep type, smoother flow, less resistance to the drain of solids/fluids.
Here is the difference:

Couldn't delete the company name. I just found these pictures on the Internet, no connection to me.