Galley Tank

[owenwetzel]

Well I,ve got a little problem with my galley tank. Acouple days ago while sitting at picnic table I noticed a small drip of water under rv. Upon checking it out and pushed on belly at a low spot and got a deluge.
Have been trying to remove belly panels but having some trouble getting them of due to all the holes and lp gas and electric brake lines. Would it be better to cut access out or try to make slites to spread panel at these holes to remove panels?

[Still_waters]

That's what I did. I had a reoccuring problem with the handle of the galley tank drain coming lose. I removed about 3or4 underbelly screws and made a slit in the underbelly. Then I was able to get my hand in there to tighten the handle. Replaced screws and covered the slit with duct tape. Worked for me.

[patodonn]

You will probably need more than a small access hole since you have to inspect the area and get into it to fix it. I think you have to either get the belly panel(s) off to get up into the problem area for inspection / repair, or get the rig into a dealer for the same work. At $60 or more / hr, that's at least a couple hundred dollars to "git 'er done". Hopefully, it is just a connector which needs tightening.

If the rig is still in warranty, that certainly would be the easiest and least expensive route. If that is the case, call Keystone, at least to get the problem "on record".

If you have to do it yourself, here was my experience. I had to take a couple of my panels off in July. After a few false starts, it seemed to be easier if I started from the passenger side and worked my way across with the drill and socket. Leave a screw finger tight in place along each side, and one or two along the long crosswise seams. Start again on the passenger side and work across from the passenger side, taking out those last four screws. LOT easier if two or three people available underneath to help handle the panel for that last little bit. With a little help, you should be able to slip the panel slightly aft and slightly toward the passenger side while clearing the propane, brake and water line access "holes". Reverse the process to get it back into place. You only need the one or two other sets of hands for the 5 min or so needed to remove the last 4 screws and to remove the panel, and for the repositioning to reinstall it while you get the first 4 or so screws back in.

I would cut the "insulation" as necessary. In my case, I was able to remove the front and then next aft panels, so was able to roll the insulation out of the way. Piece of duct tape or metal tape will work fine to patch any insulation seams.

Took about 3 or 4 hours for me, alone, to remove and reinstall the panels. I am not a mechanic, by any stretch of imagination. No "helpers" were available. Not pleasant work, but I've done much worse things, as I'm sure you have also.

Good luck!!

[owenwetzel]

Got one panel droped and there is no insulation I can see between panels and floor. All I,ve seen is the tanks and wires from front to rear. Looks like I may need to install insulation as well as repair.

[uhftx]

I have a quick remark about adding insulation.

If you winter camp and / or have the artic insulation.

I think you want some heat free flowing in this area to keep the tanks from freezing while the heater is ON. I may be way off base though, I have never taken off my belly and I have been wrong in the past.

[sreigle]

Owenwetzel, does your coach have a sticker on the outside that says something about Arctic Package? If so, you should have that insulatin PJ talked about. If you have the sticker, you might get on the horn to Keystone to arrange them putting in that insulation. Just a thought.

If no sticker you could still call them with the VIN and ask if it's supposed to have the Arctic Package.