Clean air...ahhhhh

[Ozz]

Changed the truck air cleaner, then tore apart the old one to see how good it worked.
Pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Jimsue13/TruckAirCleaner?authuser=0&feat=directlink

[CORattler]

I do make it a habit to change mine regularly. Your photos are proof positive of the need and benefit.

[Ozz]

I'm here to help brotha!

[WePull]

Oz, do I see desert dust in there? Yep replaced mine this spring.

[DQDick]

That's why, in spite of the cost, I change them after I've spent a good deal of time in dust storms. Oh how I long for the days when you just took it out and banged it on the wall. Of course the brakes and power steering weren't tied together in those days either.

[Ozz]

Mac, most of that desert dust is from ole Dick, following him on those BLM roads for 20 miles. I should have changed it a long time ago, but the indicator on the air cleaner was not showing.
I will not let it go that long again.

[DQDick]

It's not my fault that my jeep is the stretch model

[richard66]

Try a K&N filter. Clean/treat and put them back into service. I haven't used anything else for years. They have worked great for me.

[BusyCarol]

Those pictures were amazingly nasty!!! She should be much happier now she can breathe!

[Ozz]

quote:Originally posted by BusyCarol

Those pictures were amazingly nasty!!! She should be much happier now she can breathe!

Ha! Carol, no more wheezing for the ole gal, we both feel better with a clean filter.
Glad you joined our Montana family here.
Ozz

[Dave Nowlin]

I know that the K&N filters have a loyal following but there are several problems with the concept. You must wash and rinse the filter gauze to remove the dirt and aerosol tackifier which helps the filter to arrest fine dust. During the rinse process the filter bed will definitely be disturbed. How much depends on the individual doing the washing. The filter bed will be modified every time you wash it. The filter will be less efficient with each successive washing as holes in the media will be created as you rinse. You may not spread the tackifier evenly when you apply it. Excessive tackifier will gum up things downstream of the filter such as MAP sensors. The whole idea sounds great on paper but in real life isn't as good as the OEM filter. I sell filters for a living and it has been my occupation since 1986. I have sold and monitored filters in all kinds of industrial processes in the ensuing years. If I trully believed the K&N filter would do a better job of protecting my engine from harmful dust, I would be running one. I use OEM Motorcraft filters on my Ford.

[Ozz]

Dave, well said, that thought was weaving in and out of the garbage cans and dumpsters in my brain, but didn't make it to the exit.
Give me a clean slate every filter change any day. You saw all the air pockets in my filter autopsy, well designed.

[mlh]

Dave is exactly wright. You can't buy a better filter for your Ford than a Motorcraft filter. It WILL protect your engine better than any after market filter.
Thanks Dave.
Lynwood

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by richard66

Try a K&N filter. Clean/treat and put them back into service. I haven't used anything else for years. They have worked great for me.

Remind me to never buy a used vehicle from you.

K&N filters do NOT work as well at keeping dirt out of your engine as the stock filter does. Don't take my word for it though, look on the web and find out for yourself. Here's a few to get you started:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

[mlh]

Tom thanks for the post.
Lynwood

[Dave Nowlin]

Those test results are very interesting. It must be remembered that each filter tested was new. Once you start washing and reoiling the K&N and Amsoil the efficiency will get worse with each washing. The gauze bed on the K&N will get disturbed and the foam in the Amsoil will begin to degrade. If those other filters were better and protected the engine better from airborne particulate which can cause premature wear in the engine, don't you think the manufacturers with a 100,000 mile warranty on the line would use them? While the black staining is probably composed of hydrocarbons for the most part, there will also be some airborne silica (sand) on the test filter which really won't show up in the photos. This airborne silica is abrasive. Depending on what part of the country you are traveling in the amount of silica will vary. In the desert southwest with high winds there will be a lot. In coastal regions there will be a lot. In other areas the silica content will vary. Remember folks, this is what I do for a living. I have a laser particle counter that I use in air handling equipment in hospitals and other places that need very clean air. It will detect particles down to .5 micron. It has channels at 10, 5, 1, .7, & .5 micron.

[Tom S.]

Dave, A corollary to what you said would be to explain to people how filters can increase air flow. There are only two ways: 1) Increase the filter surface area, or 2) Increase the size of the holes in the filter that let air flow through. Auto manufactures chose approach #1 by creating a coil or winding of paper, which effectively increases surface area dramatically but leaves the actual holes in the filter material through which air can pass, very small - which means they trap dirt particles very well. K&N type filters on the other hand have a much smaller filtration area, and thus rely on larger holes in the filter material to increase air flow, which results in much more dirt passing as well.

To the average person who keeps a car 4 years and sells it buy another new one, either filter will work. However for the person who plans to keep their vehicle longer or who puts high mileage on a vehicle, the right choice is clear.

[TAKPAK]

To go along with what Dave has said, there was a recent extensive analysis done on automotive air filters. Oddly enough, they are least efficient when brand new, and their efficiency goes up as they get dirty. Oddly enough, the filter is most efficent when it is at it's dirtiest, just before changing. You can't really tell by the outside appearance of a filter. The best thing is to have a resistance gage (that you know works) to check it with.

Dave, I know whereof you speak on those HVAC filters. I was chief engineer of a high rise for 31 years. Lots and LOTS of studies on all sorts of filters. It all boils down to total surface area and resistance (airflow) for life of a filter. And regarding washing/re-oiling filters.....ICK. What a mess.........

For my money, I will stick with the OEM filters. 50,000 miles on the original D-max filter, and still working fine. Of course, I'm not chasing anyone down a dirt road......yet.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by TAKPAK

To go along with what Dave has said, there was a recent extensive analysis done on automotive air filters. Oddly enough, they are least efficient when brand new, and their efficiency goes up as they get dirty. Oddly enough, the filter is most efficent when it is at it's dirtiest, just before changing. You can't really tell by the outside appearance of a filter. The best thing is to have a resistance gage (that you know works) to check it with.

Dave, I know whereof you speak on those HVAC filters. I was chief engineer of a high rise for 31 years. Lots and LOTS of studies on all sorts of filters. It all boils down to total surface area and resistance (airflow) for life of a filter. And regarding washing/re-oiling filters.....ICK. What a mess.........

For my money, I will stick with the OEM filters. 50,000 miles on the original D-max filter, and still working fine. Of course, I'm not chasing anyone down a dirt road......yet.

It's not that odd when you think about it. The K&N filters have larger holes than OEM filters. As the oil in the filter does trap some dirt, these hole shrink in size, causing the filter to work better. That's why it works better the more used it is. But this also applies to the stock filters, just on a different scale.

For a visual example, look at a very old fan that has never been cleaned and you will see lots of dust particles clinging to the safety cage that surrounds it. Uncleaned, the fan will pass less air due to the obstructions. Even though they are just dust, they impede air flow and each new layer of dust traps more dust.

[Ozz]

Tom,
I had a jolt when I read your post: For a visual example, look at a very old fan that has never been cleaned and you will see lots of dust particles clinging to the safety cage that surrounds it. Uncleaned, the fan will pass less air due to the obstructions. Even though they are just dust, they impede air flow and each new layer of dust traps more dust.
I thought you wrote "A very old fat man"... I got to get new glasses...