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Old 06-10-2012, 10:36 AM   #1
oldgeezor
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Hot Water Heater Startup

Just getting ready for our first long trip. I wanted to try the hot water heater before we took off, so I have water loaded and ran the pump for a few minutes to get water into the lines.

Is there a switch that you turn on to light the propane? If there is I can't seem to find it in my rig. (I have a 2007 3400RL).

Any hints on how to start it up would be appreciated..thanks
 
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:10 AM   #2
Countryfolks
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Try looking behind the water heater burner [I think]. Our old Montana had a black rocker switch there. This one has it on the panel inside with the slide switches.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:28 AM   #3
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Even the new ones still have a small black rocker switch in the water heater bay that has a pin through it to keep it from accidentally being turned on. I believed it only controlled the electric element, but it may have some function with propane as well.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:32 AM   #4
awaywego
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The propane switch is on the monitor panel next to the pump switch. The electric switch is inside the water heater bottom left.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:47 AM   #5
K&Gs3400RL
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Leave the black switch off and the pin in, in the water heater compartment unless you want to run the water heater on Electric. The switch next to the water pump inside is all you should have to turn on to get the water heater to fire up. If you cant hear it from inside go outside and take the cover off. Have your wife turn the switch on and then listen. You should hear clicking for a few seconds and then it should light up.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:25 PM   #6
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Agree with George. Also if you have never fired it, have you fired your range? You may try burning the range a bit and then try the w/h. In other words bleed the line.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:54 PM   #7
oldgeezor
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Thank-you...found the switch and fired it up...didn't wait to see if there was hot water but everything seemed to come up properly.

Cheers
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:15 PM   #8
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Did you turn the by-pass in the Convenience Center to the "off" position so that water will flow to your tank? If you don't have a CC, then the by-pass valves are behind the plastic cover plate behind the cabinet doors next to the right of the TV/Fireplace.
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:20 PM   #9
oldgeezor
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I believe the folks at the RV shop who did the de-winterization ensured that all the valves were in the correct position..i'll check tommorrow..(I do have a CC)
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:52 AM   #10
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Sorry to change the subject a little but I have a question. Last time out I used LP instead of electric on water heater. Everything worked ok, but the exhaust made the side of the camper so warm, I got nervous and went back to electric. Is that exhaust heat common and nothing to worry about? Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:26 PM   #11
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It does make it warm but never thought it reached dangerous temp's. Jim
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:45 PM   #12
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If you are connected to shore power turn on both and it will regenerate quicker....
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:19 PM   #13
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Maybe I over reacted, but it sure seemed to make camper side hot. Took the paint off of the outside grill cover of heater. Heater had been on 10-15 minutes warming the 10 gal. of water to probably too hot a degree. I don't think there is an adjustment on the thermostat for heater. I usually just use electric, so I am not used to how hot , etc. the LP exhaust gets out there. Sure don't want a fire! Thanks for the reply.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:22 PM   #14
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The reason I was using LP was weather was very hot, and using AC, and a few other appliances tripped the pedestal 30 amp. breaker. I agree using electric and LP would speed heating process. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:18 PM   #15
steelpony5555
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If you're burning the paint off the grille cover something ain't right. I never seen one get that hot. If you haven't used it in a long time you might want to check it for mud dopper nests or some thing blocking any of the vents or openings...
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:24 PM   #16
campfire42
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That is what I was thinking, Steel, and I shut it off. But it being just a water heater, there are no vents except through the grill. Furnaces are direct vents too, but they use a stainless vent cover to take care of the heat, and heat is directed straight out of trailer. Water heater vent allows heat to go up into side of trailer. I'll have to check things over some more, too hot.
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:32 AM   #17
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I agree something does not seem right and it's good that both electric and propane are good things to have for the best in versatility. Using only electric means that in winter you can save the propane for the furnace. Using only Propane means you can save the electric for the A/Cs to cool the rig. Using both means not as much electric OR propane are needed because they both heat quicker than using only either.

Now, there is an adjustment but I've read these are done at the factory and I don't believe this can be user adjusted but this might not be the issue. There is also a thermostat for the unit and this might not be working right and the propane heater may not be shutting down properly when the WH temp is correct so the propane heater runs and runs and runs. The paint getting burned off is a good indicator that things are getting too hot and staying too hot. This can be dangerous as well. Have you noticed water "leakage" at the WH which might be coming from the pressure relief valve and indicating the WH is running too hot?

You might want to have this checked out.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:12 AM   #18
campfire42
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Good morning, the relief valve isn't going off or leaking, and the valve is free and appears to be able to work. You are right about thermostat, I think I can access that and see if it is close enough to heater to sense temp. right. I had put an adj. thermostat on previous camper water heater, but I don't want to do that again unless I have to replace this one. I believe they are factory set at 140, which is too hot for me, I blend even at 125. Thanks.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:49 AM   #19
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Well, I pulled the therms, put them in water on stove, using my VOM, both opened at 140 deg. I vacuumed out the burner, some rust flakes, now all clean. Since I'm at home and plugged into a 20 amp. circuit, electric side of heater just kept tripping breaker in basement, so that was no help this time. I also bent the exhaust diverter a little so exhaust heat would come out better then up. So, I turned it on, it lit fine, and 1/2 hr.+ later, it turned off. And it is 92 deg. outside today here in NC Wis. I guess the camper won't start on fire, but pretty warm on the side of camper. Those therms could open at 120 deg. though. Do you realize how hot the water has to get to radiate 140 deg. through the water heater jacket? Very hot!!! I know, they don't want us to run out of hot water, but it is dumb to be such a hot turn off temp. So, I am done with it. I think I did everything you all suggested to me, and thank you very much.
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:22 AM   #20
steelpony5555
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Now the question is why is it kicking the 20 amp breaker?? A water heater should not kick it if that is all that is on. Now if you're running the AC and had the water heater on then yeah but not just the water heater.
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