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02-04-2012, 07:42 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: summerside
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #10550
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converter trouble
Last night noticed that the lights on the fridge were out and the 12 volt lights were dim.I turned off the 12 volt lights then the fridge lights came back on.Checked the breaker box, the breaker for the converter was down and would not reset. Today we unplugged the converter and checked the fuses.Fuses were good.Turned the main power back on , reset the breaker,tried to plug the converter in,
lots of sparks, blew the converter breaker again. I have no experience with this stuff at all, any help would be appreciated.
Thank you, Jef
the converter is a iota dls 75 , on a 08 3000RK
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02-04-2012, 09:21 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: corning
Posts: 694
M.O.C. #6635
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Sounds like you need a new converter.
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02-04-2012, 07:07 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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Is this a new problem, that is, you've been using the rig for a while, then this occurred?
If so, it does sound like the converter failed, I'm guessing the sparks were in the converter. While not unusual hopefully this was not caused by something worse. It would be a real bummer to find that plugging in a new unit and then it fails again would be a real bummer.
Get at least the same rating. Hopefully someone can comment if this 75amp unit is enough. When you replace it, make sure there is NO power present - no shore power connection, no generator, no solar panels and disconnect the battery, too.
Please keep us posted on what you find out and what works for you.
On EDIT! Whoops, the 75 amps from the converter is DC amps, not AC amps. The trailer uses 50 amps at 110v. This converter provides up to 75 amps output at 12v. I got this mixed up. The 75 amps provides battery charging and power to 12v devices. Sorry about the mixup. I hope someone can confirm this. This is why when I disconnect my batteries I can still operate the landing gear and the slides. But will 75 amps be enough? I should check the rating on mine.
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02-05-2012, 01:47 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,707
M.O.C. #7992
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It sounds like the converter is bad. To be sure disconnect the output wires from the converter. With the AC breaker open,, (in the blown position), plug the converter in. Reset the breaker and see if it holds. If it pops the breaker then it is probably the converter. If the breaker holds it could be a problem beyond the converter and further isolation efforts will be required. Jim
__________________
2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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02-05-2012, 02:48 AM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: summerside
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #10550
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Disconected the battery and black and white wires on the converter. The first time we left the breaker on and it blew the breaker when we plugged it in. So then we left the breaker off (in the down position), plugged it back in, when we turned the breaker on , the breaker held. Now it seems to be holding either way. Thanks for your input,what should we try now?
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02-05-2012, 03:15 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,707
M.O.C. #7992
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With the converter connected and the battery disconnected are all your 12volt appliances and lights still working? Jim
__________________
2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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02-05-2012, 03:48 AM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: summerside
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #10550
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Opps, my bad. If I had followed your first post properly the breaker would not hold. It threw the main breaker and I didn't realize it.
Now I hooked it back up, no battery, breaker will not reset. With that being said, it is probably the converter. Any ideas where to get a new one? Looked online at leisure time RV , in Orlando. They are $475.00. If anybody knows where I could get one cheaper, we are in Lake County, FL. Thanks again for all your help.
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02-05-2012, 04:24 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern
Posts: 4,294
M.O.C. #311
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Jef,
No mater what converter you get I suggest you ensure it has or you add the "Charge Wizzard" or Iota Q4 monitor. They take the two step charge pattern and make it three voltages and better monitor your battery charge process.
I had the Iota without the Q4 and now have the Inteli-Powers converter. You will have to determine if you get just the converter or the whole system. You did not state what year and model you have. Best of luck.
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02-05-2012, 04:46 AM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: summerside
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #10550
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Are we okay to go a few days without the converter if we order one on-line?(fridge?) Does anybody have a good link where we could order one? Do we have to replace it with another Iota DLS 75?
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02-05-2012, 05:03 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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H. John Kohl - it was posted the owner has an '08 3000RK, or were you asking about the converter? H. John does have a great idea about the Q4 smart charger!
jef - Go to Amazon.com and do a search for iota dls 75 and they have them for $255 to $275. You can probably use the dollars saved to select a fast delivery or not. I believe you can purchase a higher rating if you want, say like a 90 amp. This means you have more 12V power when on shore power. I don't believe this should hurt anything and just means you would have more power available. You could probably raise your landing gear and operate the slides all at the same time, but I still wouldn't do that.
Not having a converter means you cannot run 12v stuff for very long because you are discharging the batteries and they aren't being recharged at all. Being connected to shore power or using a generator will not be able to provide 12v power at all or assisting the batteries and running all the 12v off the existing batteries directly is like running your car without an alternator. Eventually the trailer (and your car) will die. If you can find an external means of keeping the batteries charged you might be okay - something like a Battery Minder/Charger/Conditioner. But this is something else you need to purchase (locating, purchasing, shipping?). I hope I am explaining this right.
Here's a link to the amazon site I mentioned:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ds=iota+dls+75
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02-05-2012, 09:21 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 2,707
M.O.C. #7992
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Jef, I think you might be able to get by with a 12 volt battery charger if you truly limit the use of 12v. If possible check to see what state your battery is in. Your battery level light on your tank level indicator should tell you how much battery you have left. Get a charger hooked up to your battery immediately. Avoid using any 12v application that you can until your battery returns to full charge and then use it sparingly. Save the battery for frig, furnace, co2 detector. Watch the charger and make sure it is not overcharging the battery. That should get you by until the new converter arrives. Jim
__________________
2006 3000RK
2009 Ram 2500
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02-05-2012, 12:42 PM
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#12
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: summerside
Posts: 6
M.O.C. #10550
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I have an Iota DLS 75 with Q4 moniter on order from Amazon.My battery went dead today so charged it up with my Honda Generater, it is showing 3/4 tonight, so should hold to run the fridge for awhile.I will keep an eye on it while I await the converter. Thanks again for all the help MOC rocks!!
Jef
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02-05-2012, 03:55 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: New Braunfels
Posts: 664
M.O.C. #920
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Try this source for converters
http://www.bestconverter.com
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02-05-2012, 04:27 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Omaha
Posts: 6,750
M.O.C. #7560
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jef-- Where are you at? I just went through a converter change out and I worked with Stewart RV out of Avon Park. I had Parellax converter in my unit (2004-2980RL). I lost the 12 volt side and we put in a Progressive Dynamics replacement unit that had the Wizard on it. When we got here to Old Mill Stream at Umatilla John Kohl checked out the unit and he found it had a bad cable on it for the Wizard indicator. We called Progressive Dynamics and they sent us out a new cable. It is installed and working now BUT we found that the converter had a wire holding the fan blade for cooling the unit thus burning out the fan motor, we think. Have to call Progressive tomarrow and see if we can get a new fan and motor. Will keep you advised of outcome.
Oh, by the way, until we got the converter in from Progressive we hooked up a battery charger to the battery and charged it up and then took the charger and hooked it to the battery leads from the battery and turned on the charger to charge @ 2 amps. This kept all our 12 volt appliances and lights lit until the new converter was installed. You might try that also if you want to. Remember the frig is run off of the 12 volt system to work and if I'm not mistaken so is the AC to get it going. Don't quote me on the AC deal and I'm sure if I'm incorrect someone will let me know here also.
Keep us informed on your outcome!
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