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04-24-2006, 03:12 PM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Haldimand County
Posts: 2,413
M.O.C. #122
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sph77
ONTMONT
I've had three flats due to valve stem leaks. Each time I have had them replace with metal stems.
Steve
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I guess I made the mistake this time. I got my terminology wrong. What I really meant was that the VALVE CORE came loose, allowing air to escape. I just tightened them with the other end of the valve cap. Valve stems could be another weak point though.
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05-03-2006, 04:45 AM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Santa Fe Springs
Posts: 4,189
M.O.C. #639
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by sph77
While traveling along Highway 70 from Denver to Oakley, KS I pulled into a rest stop to take a break. During my usual visual inspection of the truck and rig I discovered that one of the rig's wheels had no lug nuts showing. YES, ALL OF THE LUGS HAD BEEN SHEARED OFF!!
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sph77, Just how much did it cost you for the repairs, and was a new brake drum the easy fix?
TT2
__________________
Pulling a 2004, 2980 RL an oldie but goodie.
Tow vehicle is a 2009 RED RAM 3500 DRW.
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05-03-2006, 04:15 PM
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#23
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Winchester
Posts: 142
M.O.C. #551
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TT2
The cost was surprising. They made two trips to other dealers tracking down the correct sized lugs and wheel, The face of the hub/brake drum needed to be ground a little due to scouring, they changed the tire from the old rim to the new and repaired my spare. Total price, $175. I was expecting twice that.
Steve
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05-04-2006, 04:52 AM
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#24
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Santa Fe Springs
Posts: 4,189
M.O.C. #639
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What a DEAL!! that can put a scare on a person if out in the real world, I bet that made your walet happy.
TT2
__________________
Pulling a 2004, 2980 RL an oldie but goodie.
Tow vehicle is a 2009 RED RAM 3500 DRW.
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05-06-2006, 01:48 AM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,568
M.O.C. #4890
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I will always do a pre trip check of my wheel nuts with my torque wrench but when ever you remove the wheels and remount them, it is critical that you check them at 50 miles and keep checking them until you find they are staying tight.
That is why Keystone sent us all the video tape in the mail.I had removed all my wheels to balance my tires.
When I left two weeks ago, I was surprized to find that all the nuts needed to be retightened for my first 3 checks.
I continued to check them and now they stay tight and I have towed over 1200 miles without them changing.
One more point, there seems to be a misconcepion out there that this is an aluminum wheel issue only.
The aluminum wheels may be more prone to this but steel wheels also can come loose and Steve's wheel looks like a steel wheel. I am an industrial mechanic and my guess, in Steve's case the nuts came loose allowing the wheel to move and wear the holes and studs to the point the studs broke. If this happens in a vehicle that you are driving, you can feel it and pull over before it is too late but in a tow vehicle............. man, I am glad no one got hurt.
Good post and a heads up for all of us.
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05-08-2006, 03:52 PM
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#26
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 20,028
M.O.C. #20
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I second what Wrenchtraveller said. Ours are the steel wheels and they require retorquing every 59 to 150 miles or so until no longer tightening, after the lugnuts have been loosened or removed for any reason. That usually is 3 or 4 retorquings. I leave the black nut covers off until done with this sequence, as a reminder to do the retorquing when we stop.
I once had a left front wheel come off at 55 mph in a 1968 Datsun 2000 Roadster on a San Diego area offramp. Totally flattened the disc brake but other than the disc and the lugs there was no damage. The car came to a stop in a straight line. The wheel, on the other hand came very close to entering the freeway after it got done bouncing. Fortunately it stayed in the ramp area. A flat had been fixed and apparently they snugged the lugnuts then forgot to tighten them. They disclaimed any responsibility, however.
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05-09-2006, 04:11 PM
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#27
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Livermore
Posts: 5,142
M.O.C. #1920
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Glad that you found it before more damage was done. I just want to remind everyone about the free DVD on wheel torque from Keystone. They are now giving them to everyone that buys a Montana and if you want one just call and they will send one for free. The service personnel covered this very thoroughly at the Great Lakes Regional rally last fall. RichFAA - the dealers have a routine that they follow religously with new units. They check at (going from memory here) 25 miles, 75 miles and then again at 100 miles I believe. Aluminum wheels especially need to be checked for torque. And, they should be tighted in the star pattern spelled out in the owner's manual and DVD. Hopefully we will have the service techs at the MOC Fall Rally again. It was very worthwhile. We learned a lot about servicing the Monty. Also went straight out and bought a torque wrench. Best of luck, and check that torque at the interval recommended.
__________________
Ron and Terrie Ames - MOC #1920/KF0NTA
2021Montana 3230CK Super Solar Legacy Package
2021 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn, BIM Charging
4x4, SRW, LB, Crew Cab, Pullrite 3900 Hitch
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