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Old 10-25-2017, 03:55 PM   #1
Bochim
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Electric brakes not working

Thanks ahead of time for any help. Pulled into station for fuel and one brake locked up. Got out and noticed breakaway came out. Put it back and wheel unlocked. Noticed nothing else locked up. Was close to home so gingerly went home. Checked starboard side brakes today, no brakes. Checked them first because slide covers both port side wheels. That is all I know. I expect the tire that skidded will work but the others will not. Any help or ideas appreciated.
Steve
 
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:21 PM   #2
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Well it sounds like brake power is getting back to the axles. Look for loose connections at the axle brake wiring. Check for wire rub through where the wires go through the holes into the axle tubes. If that all checks out you may have an issue with the wires and or magnets inside the brake drums.

Just a recommendation, Do your self a favor and be done with the junk electric brake system and have Kodiak Hydraulic disc brakes installed. Around $1500-$1700 to do your self (if Mechanically inclined) or around $3500 to have a shop do it for you. YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT THE DIFFERANCE IN BRAKING ABILITY. I'm not going to said I can stop on a dime but I will say I can now stop 3 times faster.

Also, brake pads are way easier to change. (if you ever have to) they seem to wear like iron.
No more possible grease on brake pads since you can see the back sides of the seals at the axles.
No more taking apart brake drum/bearings to check brake shoes ( you can probable see the condition of the pads through the wheels with them still installed).
Its just a way better system all around (similar to the brakes on todays cars and trucks)
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:44 PM   #3
mlh
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We had brakes that didn’t work. We checked everything, the magnet, checked for oil checked the electrical connections and could find anything wrong. Finally took it out on the highway and held my foot on the break pedal and slowly they started to work, got better and better until they worked like they ought to.
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:25 PM   #4
happy camper x2
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we had intermittent brake issues on are last 2200 mile trip. Found that the right rear brake assembly came apart. the adjusting spring had broke into two pieces the adjusting star had the adjusting notches wore off and the wires had rubbed into.
Here is where it gets good. I collected all the parts put the hub and wheel back on trailer and called CW to start warranty work. CW said they don't do brake work. got ahold of a lady with keystone she asked for a shop who would fix it. I recommend a trailer place in tulsa took it there that afternoon picked it up the next day. Yes two day turnaround.
they checked all brakes and repacked the wheel bearings they stated two bearings had very little grease.
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:54 AM   #5
The Old Fogies
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The older Montana's didn't have self adjusting brakes. Yours could have wore the point that they need to be adjusted
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Old 10-26-2017, 08:54 AM   #6
WaltBennett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Old Fogies View Post
The older Montana's didn't have self adjusting brakes. Yours could have wore the point that they need to be adjusted
Sorry, but 2010 isn't THAT old - ours has self adjusting ones as I replaced all the assemblies a year and a half ago as one had gotten grease on it due to a idiot safety inspector that didn't know how to put the wheel & drum back on after looking at it. Anyway - I wouldn't be surprised if there's a broken wire. During my changing out the assemblies, I found that there's only one wire going to the front street-side brake from the hook up cable & truck. It was then spliced to a wire that went to the front curb side and also to the rear street side. The front curb side then daisy chained to the rear curb side. If the only one that worked was the front street side, then you've probably a wiring problem!
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:11 AM   #7
The Old Fogies
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Sorry if you took that as a put down. As yippy see i have a 2008 and the brakes are manual adjusting.
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Old 11-01-2017, 10:15 AM   #8
Bochim
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Thank You

A Big thank you for all who gave info and advice. Due to magnet wear marks and general condition of brakes I have decided to jump in and redo wiring and brake assemblys. Will let you know when I find the problem. Thanks Again, Steve. Now in South Carolina, hoping to be more south in a month or so.
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Old 11-01-2017, 03:58 PM   #9
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Good Luck - my breakaway came out on a new 2017 - new parts from spindle out on ALL four wheels - $1500 from dealer ... including wheel bearings. Good luck, wished I had put on disc brakes ... food for thought
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Old 11-08-2017, 12:03 PM   #10
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...

Have starboard side done. Pretty straight forward. Did not replace bearings, did clean everything good and put new Red Line grease in. Replaced all bearing seals. Front starboard had grease on pads. Have not found electrical problem, hampered by my own ignorance. Looks like power comes from front down port side on two separate lines (2 lines w/2 wires each). First line exits underbelly via slit, goes to front brake, then inside axle to front starboard side. Other wire goes to rear port, then inside axle to rear starboard side. Question: How do you recommend I check for power? How many volts should there be? Thanks, Steve
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Old 11-14-2017, 11:03 PM   #11
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Should see battery voltage at the magnet by jumping at the trailer plug.

I had a problem a few years ago and it was the wiring run inside the axle. Insulation perforated to ground causing controller alarm and no trailer brakes.
Pulled wire out of axle, ran through pvc EMT,. No more trouble.
Used three tridon work gear clamps on each EMT to secure tubing to axle. I used electrical duct seal to seal the EMT ends
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Old 11-15-2017, 04:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram Montana High Country View Post
Good Luck - my breakaway came out on a new 2017 - new parts from spindle out on ALL four wheels - $1500 from dealer ... including wheel bearings. Good luck, wished I had put on disc brakes ... food for thought
WOW! Just last year I put Kodiak disc brakes on our 2012 Montana. Doing it myself to include all new made in USA Timken bearings only cost $50.00 more than your cost. It was a very easy install and only needed basic hand tools and actually did it in our favorite campground.
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Old 11-15-2017, 08:44 AM   #13
Ram Montana High Country
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Webe - yes - dealer markup ... what Kodiak system did you use?
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Old 11-15-2017, 09:49 AM   #14
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Webe - yes - dealer markup ... what Kodiak system did you use?
I used the Kodiak one piece hub/rotor with E coating. I fed them with the Hydra Star actuator and Kodiak hydraulic line kit and also installed Timken made in USA bearings. Everything worked GREAT and will probably do the 2018 this coming Spring. Kodiak does not make a kit so you have to buy individual parts. I got the hubs/rotors and line kit from etrailer.com and the actuator from eastern marine because they had a better deal on it at the time.

When I do the 2018 I will probably use the same hub/rotor in the "raw" finish because the e coating doesn't stay on the rotor face anyway. The "raw" finish at the time was about $100.00 cheaper.
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:41 PM   #15
Bochim
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Finished putting brakes and new grease on all wheels. Checked voltage at front left wheel and had 6 volts. Ground shows continuity. Brakes are working, as you might imagine, about half as good as they should. Voltage shows good at truck side 7 way plug. I guess the problem lies between the male plug on the coach and the wheels. Thanks for all the comments and help. Steve
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2007 Ford F-250 Tires, outside exhaust, and other things."We all are eternal spirits; and at the end of what we now see and experience, eternity begins, which is reality." SD Shaffer
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:12 PM   #16
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Upon Further Review

Just to let you all know, the last problem was the oem brake controller on my 2007 SuperDuty. Sent it to a guy on ebay who rebuilt the circuit for $80 or so and all is well. So, there were a couple different problems, this being the last. This is a great forum, thanks to all. Steve
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