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Old 06-19-2017, 12:08 AM   #21
Forsch
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Has anyone contacted Keystone about adding the third air conditioner? What do they recommend?

I just came back from a trip in 118 degree weather with little shade. The two A/C's were able to maintain about 80 degrees during the day with very little door opening, but that is not good enough for me. I know I will have to do some cleanup of the factory ductwork to get better results. I am also going to add additional duct outlets. I did that on a 2007 Eclipse Stellar and was able to maintain 70 degrees at the same RV park with the same temperatures. I was thinking of adding the third air conditioner so maybe they didn't have to work so hard.

I'm just wondering what Keystone recommends.

Thanks for any comments or recommendations.
 
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:01 AM   #22
bshgto
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can`t make this stuff up

If you want a 3rd A/C it would not be a difficult task for a seasoned electrician to fish a wire from the non-moving cabinet wall to the ceiling vent for a 3rd A/C and have it tail out at the 50amp plug location on the back of the camper. then you could just use a 20 or 30 amp receptacle with a matching cap and cord over to the power pole along with e 50 amp cord. This would keep the moon and stars in balance and you wouldn`t have to juggle around appliance use. " Wait honey you can`t dry your hair just yet the 3rd a/c is on... You said what? OK OK I`ll turn it off
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Old 06-19-2017, 11:34 AM   #23
DQDick
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Actually you've missed the point. The new Montana's are already wired for a third AC unit. You take the vent out over the entry way (on our unit) and, supposedly, it is already wired for it right there.
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:10 PM   #24
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can`t make this stuff up

Quote:
Originally Posted by DQDick View Post
Actually you've missed the point. The new Montana's are already wired for a third AC unit. You take the vent out over the entry way (on our unit) and, supposedly, it is already wired for it right there.
AH yes but from what I`ve heard (which maybe incorrect) you have to stager what units you run and that would defeat the purpose of running all 3 at once to cool the unit in the stinking hot days. My way is safe and will solve the problem. If the units are wired for a 3rd a/c then this would make it even easier to connect just pull the wire out of the panel and extend it to the rear and follow the other instructions. Bingo
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Old 06-19-2017, 04:18 PM   #25
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So I called Keystone today and spoke to one of the people in production. He said while the coaches are wired for three air conditioners, they are not capable of running all three at the same time.

Here is what I found out:

The coach is wired for a third air conditioner that is non ducted (dump only). The power wiring and thermostat wire are both in the outlet next to the fan unit that will be replaced by the new air conditioner. The other end of the thermostat wire is routed to the rear of the existing wall thermostat in the main living area. I was told the added unit can be a 15,000 BTU.

Camping World made a call to Dometic (existing units are Dometic) and they were recommended the Blizzard NXT unit. The unit that was quoted with all necessary hardware installed was quoted at $1,700.

So my plan is to add the third unit. I will then check all of the ducting of the existing units. I will open any collapsed duct and aluminum tape all points of intake. After that I will cut down or replace all duct vents and seal with aluminum tape. I also plan to add at least two additional vents in the bedroom, maybe four if there is room. I am also going to add two, possibly four, in the living room. I am also going to look into blocking the furnace vents and the vents under the stairs. I will make them easily removable, but I doubt I will ever use the furnace. We have the fireplace and the heat pump in one of the A/C units, witch are more than enough heating for my wife and me.

I know this seems like overkill, but I hate being hot.

Also, according to Keystone the info given by bshgto is the only way to run all of the A/C's at the same time.

Thank you to all who have added their experience to this issue.
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Old 06-19-2017, 05:18 PM   #26
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If you look at other manufacturers that are doing this they are using an energy management system that staggers when they can come on, but lets them run all at once similar to a unit the electric company installed on my stick house once. Still trying to see if that could be adapted to a Monty.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:24 PM   #27
Forsch
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That would be nice. If you find something please let us know.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:59 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsch View Post
So I called Keystone today and spoke to one of the people in production. He said while the coaches are wired for three air conditioners, they are not capable of running all three at the same time.

Here is what I found out:

The coach is wired for a third air conditioner that is non ducted (dump only). The power wiring and thermostat wire are both in the outlet next to the fan unit that will be replaced by the new air conditioner. The other end of the thermostat wire is routed to the rear of the existing wall thermostat in the main living area. I was told the added unit can be a 15,000 BTU.

Camping World made a call to Dometic (existing units are Dometic) and they were recommended the Blizzard NXT unit. The unit that was quoted with all necessary hardware installed was quoted at $1,700.

So my plan is to add the third unit. I will then check all of the ducting of the existing units. I will open any collapsed duct and aluminum tape all points of intake. After that I will cut down or replace all duct vents and seal with aluminum tape. I also plan to add at least two additional vents in the bedroom, maybe four if there is room. I am also going to add two, possibly four, in the living room. I am also going to look into blocking the furnace vents and the vents under the stairs. I will make them easily removable, but I doubt I will ever use the furnace. We have the fireplace and the heat pump in one of the A/C units, witch are more than enough heating for my wife and me.

I know this seems like overkill, but I hate being hot.

Also, according to Keystone the info given by bshgto is the only way to run all of the A/C's at the same time.

Thank you to all who have added their experience to this issue.
Before you go chopping up your rig, your A/C duct works on pressure. The entire duct system must pressurize before any air will come out. if you chop more holes than the fan can fill, you will see a decrease in flow from your system.
I would probably try adding one of the portable ones that sit on the floor and exhaust through a flex vent in a window if it was that darned hot.

Mark
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Old 07-01-2017, 09:21 PM   #29
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Here's the answer from someone who did it and posted on Facebook:
There is a stagger control mounted behind the breaker box. The bedroom and the 3rd unit are hooked to it and the bedroom has priority. I disconnected the third A/C power line and put it in with the central vac on its breaker. Will have to turn off the air conditioner when I vacuum. I can run all three with it wired this wa
Used a Dometic Brisk 2, 13.5
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Many thanks to Kenny for the info.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:09 AM   #30
Clemson1881
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With my old 30 amp fifth wheel I added a second A/C. Ran an independent power circuit. Plugged 30 amp shore cord into 50 amp outlet with an adapter, and plugged A/C into 30 amp outlet independently. If a third A/C is necessary the independent port and cord is a winner.
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Old 07-04-2017, 04:48 PM   #31
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So I finally was able to look at the intake vents. Wow. The ducting was collapsed to about 1/2 inch both in the living room and the bedroom. I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC as recommended in an earlier post to open the duct. You could feel the difference in the exit pressure of the A/C vents. When I checked the intake vents in the bedroom I was amazed to see that the opening cut by the factory was only about 1/2 of the size of the vent covers. I was amazed at how little air was exiting the A/C vents in the bedroom. I cut the intake opening to match the size of the vent covers and re-taped them with aluminum tape. Again, what a difference in the output pressure of the A/C vents.

If you are having any issues with your A/C not moving enough air, I would definitely recommend checking these two things. They are very easy to correct and don't take much time.

Third A/C will be installed this Friday. Dometic Blizzard NXT. I will comment on that after it is installed.

Now to adding more output vents to the bedroom ceiling...
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:12 PM   #32
Razrbk
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Need help. Concerning the operation of three AC's, someone posted about a device(s) that you could install which would allow for such operation. I have searched but can't find the thread. Does anyone recall information on this control system???
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:00 PM   #33
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The new rigs are wired for three, but there is a control that will allow only two to run at a time with, I believe the bedroom one, being the control. Some have talked about wiring the third so that a 110 wire comes out of their coach that can be plugged into the pedestal separately and get it's power that way.
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Old 09-12-2017, 06:14 AM   #34
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We had a motor home with three ACs. Very seldom did it, like setting up after driving all day, but it would run all three at once...providing the power stalk was up to speed.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:13 AM   #35
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It might have been an install that allowed 30amp operation of both AC's. It was a fairly recent thread.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:00 PM   #36
Forsch
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So I have used the trailer with the 3rd A/C twice now. Wow, what a difference. The only thing I don't like is that it is wired with the bedroom A/C and the bedroom has priority. I am going to try to switch the bedroom and the main ducted unit. The direct vented 3rd A/C does a much better job of cooling the living room area of the coach. If I can swap the bedroom and main ducted unit everything will be great.
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:11 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQDick View Post
Here's the answer from someone who did it and posted on Facebook:
There is a stagger control mounted behind the breaker box. The bedroom and the 3rd unit are hooked to it and the bedroom has priority. I disconnected the third A/C power line and put it in with the central vac on its breaker. Will have to turn off the air conditioner when I vacuum. I can run all three with it wired this wa
Used a Dometic Brisk 2, 13.5
Kenny Bogard

Many thanks to Kenny for the info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forsch View Post
So I finally was able to look at the intake vents. Wow. The ducting was collapsed to about 1/2 inch both in the living room and the bedroom. I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch PVC as recommended in an earlier post to open the duct. You could feel the difference in the exit pressure of the A/C vents. When I checked the intake vents in the bedroom I was amazed to see that the opening cut by the factory was only about 1/2 of the size of the vent covers. I was amazed at how little air was exiting the A/C vents in the bedroom. I cut the intake opening to match the size of the vent covers and re-taped them with aluminum tape. Again, what a difference in the output pressure of the A/C vents.

If you are having any issues with your A/C not moving enough air, I would definitely recommend checking these two things. They are very easy to correct and don't take much time.

Third A/C will be installed this Friday. Dometic Blizzard NXT. I will comment on that after it is installed.

Now to adding more output vents to the bedroom ceiling...
I noticed you guys used different units for your 3rd AC. Does either match what is already up there from the factory? Does anyone know which Dometic units the factory puts on? Thanks
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Old 02-12-2018, 11:37 PM   #38
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Both are Dometic. I used the Blizzard NXT to match the unit in the main living area. 15,000 BTU.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:50 AM   #39
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So Keystone puts non matching units on? Did you do a Blizzard with a heat pump? Is the bedroom unit a Brisk? Thanks
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:04 AM   #40
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Hmmmmm.....been watching this thread for a while now. Makes me wonder when they started wiring the units for the third AC unit. Mine's a '16 but after the midyear change. Even though, after it went back to the factory for the frame and the AC, it's done well even in direct sunlight, but this is definitely something to consider...
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