Towing in 4 wheel drive?

[jeffwilliams1954]

Hi all,
I can't seem to find anything in my truck manual about towing while in four wheel drive. Have any of you out there done this while driving on bad road conditions? Will it cause any harm to the truck? Thanks all.

[ols1932]

A lot depends on your speed. I've towed mine in 4-wheel drive, high range at about 40 miles per hour for about 50 miles. I would do it as a last resort.

Orv

[Jim Jarvis]

I do not believe it is recommended to use 4X4 on dry pave. Your manual should guide you.

[bsmeaton]

Interesting question. I have used it on icy mountain passes, but then again I told myself if I need it I shouldn't be here . Never more than a few miles like Orv, and low speeds. Still works and both driveshafts are still attached .

I actually need to read the manual as well. My GMC would defeat anti-lock brakes when in 4WD, but that was a few years ago. It was frustating because I always felt like I had to pick the less of two evils; ability to go, or ability to stop. I have no idea if that is still the case on these trucks.

[H. John Kohl]

My Dodge locks the axles when in 4x4. I use it all the time backing any distance 4x4 LOW. As stated I would not recommend it on dry pavement because it will really tear up the tires and stress the drive train. I would only use it when you loose traction. As bsmeaton says, If I need it I should not be out here.
Best of luck and safe towing.

[OntMont]

We use it (4x4 High) in snow and icy patches, sometimes even when it is just wet in stop and go traffic. So far as I am concered, that is what I bought it for, and I use it.

I once did accidently leave it in 4x4 high and drove it about 100 miles on dry pavement that way with no apparent ill-effects, but that was not intended, and wouldn't normally do that.

[Delaine and Lindy]

I never tow in 4 wheel drive. And I don't think any 4 wheel drive should be run on dry pavement for long distances, when parking in the Rv park you will be moving very slow and can be used.

Trucks and cars equiped with full time 4 wheel drive are designed different. GBY...

[levietta]

My DW and I were hauling FEMA trailers a couple of years ago during the Katrina dilemna. We ran from the Pacific Northwest to the Gulf coast area, and from the Indiana area down the Baton Rouge and New Orleans. We had to run, whatever the weather, and that included over the Rockies during the winter months. Whenever it was snowing, or when there was still some patches on the road, I ran the 4-wheel drive on our Dodge 3500 duallie. We probably ran (all told) several thousand miles in 4-wheel while hauling. I never exceeded 50 mph during those times. I had no trouble. There was no residual effect. The only noticeable result was the decrease in fuel mileage.

[Glenn and Lorraine]

4X4 only when absoulutely necessary. 4X4 Low when backing up the rig on the slighest upgrade, wet grass or loose gravel. I never ever drive in snow or ice conditions. Never at Hiway speeds but that comes from the Old School when we didn't want to mess up the transmission and or transfer. With today's more modern commputer controlled everything I have no idea whether or not hiway speed and towing are good for the TV or not.
I will say one thing, "Any one that pulls a 5th wheel on a regular basis that does not have 4X4 is kidding himself." In over 4 years I have used my 4X4 more times than I care to remember. On everything from mud,loose gravel, sand, wet grass, etc. There were a few times I'd still be stuck had it not been for my 4X4. Even when entering and exiting the Oregon drive-on beaches and I wasn't pulling the 5er. There's even an MOCer with a 2X4 dually who can vouch for the Oregon beaches. Even on some mountain roads with some beautiful vistas you are required to have a 4X4 or stay out. I also use 4X4 Low whenever I have to back up or pull out the 5er on even the slighest of inclines. This puts muchless strain on the tranny and also keeps the tranny running much cooler.

BUT, Due to any possible warranty issues I would be directing that question to the TV Manufacturer, the experts and the folks that cover the warranty, and not taking advise from anyone less.

[CmdrDewey]

I have driven nothing but 4x4 for nearly forty years. It is perfectly ok to run all you want on dry road in four wheel drive but there is no reason for it. What is not ok is turning sharply on dry pavement. Those front wheels need to slip. If you are turning to sharply you will feel it and it doesn't feel good. Sand, dirt, gravel, wet, and of course snow and ice, let them slip a bit.

I have run in heavy rain in four wheel drive at highway speeds (but slower than the speed limit) I'm not sure it was necessary but it made me feel better.

YMMD

[stiles watson]

The only time I have used 4X4 was in the Apalachians at a campground with very steep access roads. in 4X4 low, we crawled up the hill and it worked great. This thead has been interesting due to my limited experience with 4X4.

[bsmeaton]

David - I have to counter your statement given a little history.

In the 70's and 80's, the 4WD vehicles were designed with slightly lower gear ratios to the front as compared to the rear. This forced the front axle to always try to outrun the rear, holding the vehicle straight at higher speeds. With identiical output ratios like they had on the older 4WD, the vehicles would get squirrely at higher speeds on ice because everytime you turned the front travel reduced and the rear axle would try to outrun the front. You usually ended up in a ditch or doing a doughnut at 50mph.

However - on dry pavement, the different ratios could really put additional stress on the drivetrain, mainly because neither axles was ever able to unwind like it could with loose traction. The stress caused premature wear on the U-joints, CV-joints, ring and pinion gears, and even the transfer case, not to mention what it was doing to the tires.

One of the Detroit answers to this was the Chrysler New Process 203 full time 4WD transfer case in the early 70s. A chain driven, 10-40 motor oil filled crock pot used as an option not only on Dodge, but Ford and GM also used them as optional drive trains all through the 70 and early 80s. They were the ones that had the 4WHigh Loc - 4WHigh - 4WLow - 4WLow Loc selections on the transfer case, and no hubs. Warn made a kit that you could install to convert the front axle and transfer case back into hubs so you could disengage the front axle and direct power to the rear. The warn kit was popular, as the vehicles running the NP-203 transfer case got terrible mileage and the kit would improve it, at least theoretically. The gas crunch in the 80s killed the NP-203.

That said, after 1990, I have no idea what has changed in the technology, nor do I know if it is good or bad on the drivetrain to leave them in 4WD. In fact, I haven't even figured out why my "shift-on-the-fly" Ford still has engageable hubs??

[ole dude]

Off the subject a little-- had an old rancher tell me one time that having 4 wheel drive means youall be farther from the house when you get stuck.

[jeffwilliams1954]

Well, I guess I should have clarified the bad road conditions a little better. I wasn't talking about dry road condidtions at all, what I meant was rain, icy, snowy roads etc. I have no reason for using under dry conditions. The manual is no help because it doesn't say anything about towing while in 4 wheel drive. Thanks everyone for your input. I am going to have e-mail GM and ask them directly. Does any have a good link to GM for something like this?

[Jim Jarvis]

quote:Originally posted by bsmeaton

David - I have to counter your statement given a little history.

In the 70's and 80's, the 4WD vehicles were designed with slightly lower gear ratios to the front as compared to the rear. This forced the front axle to always try to outrun the rear, holding the vehicle straight at higher speeds. With identiical output ratios like they had on the older 4WD, the vehicles would get squirrely at higher speeds on ice because everytime you turned the front travel reduced and the rear axle would try to outrun the front. You usually ended up in a ditch or doing a doughnut at 50mph.

However - on dry pavement, the different ratios could really put additional stress on the drivetrain, mainly because neither axles was ever able to unwind like it could with loose traction. The stress caused premature wear on the U-joints, CV-joints, ring and pinion gears, and even the transfer case, not to mention what it was doing to the tires.

One of the Detroit answers to this was the Chrysler New Process 203 full time 4WD transfer case in the early 70s. A chain driven, 10-40 motor oil filled crock pot used as an option not only on Dodge, but Ford and GM also used them as optional drive trains all through the 70 and early 80s. They were the ones that had the 4WHigh Loc - 4WHigh - 4WLow - 4WLow Loc selections on the transfer case, and no hubs. Warn made a kit that you could install to convert the front axle and transfer case back into hubs so you could disengage the front axle and direct power to the rear. The warn kit was popular, as the vehicles running the NP-203 transfer case got terrible mileage and the kit would improve it, at least theoretically. The gas crunch in the 80s killed the NP-203.

That said, after 1990, I have no idea what has changed in the technology, nor do I know if it is good or bad on the drivetrain to leave them in 4WD. In fact, I haven't even figured out why my "shift-on-the-fly" Ford still has engageable hubs??

There is a question I can't figure out. Anyone know? Maybe Ozz. Are we suppose to engage the one on the hubs or not? What difference would it make either way?

[snfexpress]

I like 4wd Low-Low to back up onto high blocks to level the 5er. No tire slippin' (throwin' rocks, etc.) when trying to back up onto what, essentially, is a high curb. Also, no shock on the 5er axles. And, better finite control.

Now, I've had any number of 4x4's for about 25 years. My first one was a Dodge Ramcharger with an NP203 transfer case that needed special oil in the differentials to keep it from "bouncing" around corners. I'm like many in that I wouldn't drive at speeds over 25mph on DRY pavement and wouldn't drive over 50mph on WET/slippery pavement or dirt. Of course, like some have written, maybe I shouldn't be driving in these conditions...A wise old rancher told me once: "If you have to chain up your 4WD, you're probably a lobotomy patient."

My 2 cents...

[Montana Sky]

I have towed many heavy trailers in 4 wheel drive, but only on the snow/ice packed roads. Using the 4 wheel drive has not caused any problems with my trucks.

[richfaa]

Hummm. My shinny new Ford IS a 4X4. I have never had a 4X4 truck and I have never been stuck or had problems .Perhaps the fact that I did not have a 4X4 is why we never got stuck or had a problem. Since Helen now insist on careening across the desert and charging up rocky hills in search of ROCKS .I figured a 4X4 might be a wise investment..Wanna bet we get stuck somewhere.

[exav8tr]

I've heard it told that the best piece of equipment on a 4X4 is a good wench. To pull you out when you get stuck.

I have also heard the cons of 4 wheel towing on dry pavement. In my 14 years in Alaska I always had ocassion to drive in 4WD. I tried not to on dry pavement but sometimes we went from slick to dry. No problems. I will admit, however, I have never towed in 4wd only because the opportunity never presented itself. I do use 4wdlow while backing my rig into a spot, more positive control...

[LonnieB]

Brad, the newer Fords have a vacuum controlled diaphram in each hub, I think Ford calls them seals, that can fail at the most in-opportune times. When this happens, you can still lock the hubs manually. I didn't know this until after I was stuck in the sand a couple of months ago .

On Edit - BTW, for those with 4x4 that don't already know, you need to engage the 4x4 about once a month and drive a couple of miles, even if the roads are dry. This will insure all the bearings and gears get lubed, and moved. The roller bearings in the front differential will wear grooves in the bearing races just from sitting in the same place all the time. Then, when you DO need it, the vibration will make you think the front axle is about to come apart, and it is.