Disc brake progress

[Dave W]

Scott - if you crawl under your 5er, on the middle of each axle is a part number stamped on the tube. With that number, you can then call Dexter or look at the Eastern Marine website. Etrailer is good in some respects but when you ask them a question they often have to call the manufacturer or wing off one that may not be right. One more note and if you 'piece' your mod out, Eastern Marine had a much better price on the Hydrastar including shipping then Etrailer when I did ours.

Mark - I apologize that I didn't warn you about the added stopping power and the contents of the lower area. It can potentially ending up sliding everything forward. A lesson that I too learned with a pair of Laz-E-Boy chairs and the hideabed

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by Dave W

Scott - if you crawl under your 5er, on the middle of each axle is a part number stamped on the tube. With that number, you can then call Dexter or look at the Eastern Marine website. Etrailer is good in some respects but when you ask them a question they often have to call the manufacturer or wing off one that may not be right. One more note and if you 'piece' your mod out, Eastern Marine had a much better price on the Hydrastar including shipping then Etrailer when I did ours.

Mark - I apologize that I didn't warn you about the added stopping power and the contents of the lower area. It can potentially ending up sliding everything forward. A lesson that I too learned with a pair of Laz-E-Boy chairs and the hideabed

Nothing hurt, the only things that moved were a heater that was on the floor and a couple things that USUALLY stayed put.. LOL

Mark

[jking]

Could you be so kind as to PM me your parts list for this install for my 7k axles on my 2014 3402rl thanx Jim

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by jking

Could you be so kind as to PM me your parts list for this install for my 7k axles on my 2014 3402rl thanx Jim

I don’t have a parts list. But if I did I would’ve been happy to.
Honestly Bill had everything all boxed up and it all fit perfectly. He was also cheaper than I could do buying onesy twosy. Stopyourtrailer.com

Mark

[scottz]

Originally Posted by jking

Could you be so kind as to PM me your parts list for this install for my 7k axles on my 2014 3402rl thanx Jim

I agree with Mark. I let my OCD run wild. I spent hours making a parts list, shopping around, trying to put the best and least expensive package together. Then I called Bill, told him everything I wanted and his quote was less than the others. I ordered the Titan brakes, a Hyadrastar actuator, 9/16" studs. The only thing I ordered separately was a set of Timken bearings.

https://stopyourtrailer.com/

I have not received the shipment yet, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Golfmedik]

Originally Posted by scottz

I agree with Mark. I let my OCD run wild. I spent hours making a parts list, shopping around, trying to put the best and least expensive package together. Then I called Bill, told him everything I wanted and his quote was less than the others. I ordered the Titan brakes, a Hyadrastar actuator, 9/16" studs. The only thing I ordered separately was a set of Timken bearings.

https://stopyourtrailer.com/

I have not received the shipment yet, I'll let you know how it goes.

Any update??

[scottz]

Started today. Spent about 6 hours (I'm not in too much of a hurry), cleaning the shop, getting the Montana up on jack stands/level up jacks, checking all the parts, laying out everything. Started to install the actuator but got side tracked tracing and identifying all the wires going to the hitch j-box. I elected to install the hydraulic system first, work on the hubs last. That way if I get stuck for any reason, the trailer is still mobile. More tomorrow.

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by MARK A

I bought the 13” rotors with the 9/16” wheel studs. Which gives you the larger outer bearings making your axles 8k rated. The outer bearings and stud size are the only difference in 7k to 8k rating.

Mark

Hey Mark, When you made the change to 9/16" wheel studs, which and from where did you pick up the new lug nuts? I understand a set of the stainless run about $85. I did not know if the 9/16" would fit the wheel as opposed to the original 1/2" nuts??

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by scottz

I agree with Mark. I let my OCD run wild. I spent hours making a parts list, shopping around, trying to put the best and least expensive package together. Then I called Bill, told him everything I wanted and his quote was less than the others. I ordered the Titan brakes, a Hyadrastar actuator, 9/16" studs. The only thing I ordered separately was a set of Timken bearings.

https://stopyourtrailer.com/

I have not received the shipment yet, I'll let you know how it goes.

So Bill was not able to supply the Timkin bearings at a good price? He has been helping me as well as you guys input has been great reading.

[masterdrago]

Scott, looking at you pix, did you manually raise on level-up to get tires off floor, then put jack stands under for safety only (leaving working weight on level-up)? Then to remove tires, choke them to keep from spinning while removing nut? I've been following these brake threads closely since I've never done a brake job of this magnitude. At least not in the last 40 years :+|

[jking]

Wow Scotty, I sure envy that nice shop and concrete floor �� I will be doing it in the dirt here at the park�� but I can get plenty of cardboard to sit/lay on and it ain’t my first rodeo ��. Keep us posted on your progress.

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

Hey Mark, When you made the change to 9/16" wheel studs, which and from where did you pick up the new lug nuts? I understand a set of the stainless run about $85. I did not know if the 9/16" would fit the wheel as opposed to the original 1/2" nuts??

The lug nuts were included in the kit. They are the ones with the staimless covers, but if you use a deep socket you’ll be fine.

Mark

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by scottz

Started today. Spent about 6 hours (I'm not in too much of a hurry), cleaning the shop, getting the Montana up on jack stands/level up jacks, checking all the parts, laying out everything. Started to install the actuator but got side tracked tracing and identifying all the wires going to the hitch j-box. I elected to install the hydraulic system first, work on the hubs last. That way if I get stuck for any reason, the trailer is still mobile. More tomorrow.

That was my thinking as well. I have to be able to move it until the last thing LOLOCD....😳

[scottz]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

Scott, looking at you pix, did you manually raise on level-up to get tires off floor, then put jack stands under for safety only (leaving working weight on level-up)? Then to remove tires, choke them to keep from spinning while removing nut? I've been following these brake threads closely since I've never done a brake job of this magnitude. At least not in the last 40 years :+|

Yes, that is what I did. Most of the weight is on the level up jacks, but I put some weight on the jack stands just to make sure they were stable. No problem removing lug nuts with my air impact wrench. If you don't have one, break the lug nuts free before the tires are off the ground.

[MARK A]

Originally Posted by scottz

Yes, that is what I did. Most of the weight is on the level up jacks, but I put some weight on the jack stands just to make sure they were stable. No problem removing lug nuts with my air impact wrench. If you don't have one, break the lug nuts free before the tires are off the ground.

I bought a DeWalt 20V 1/2” drive impact wrench. It goes with me everywhere now.. It’s great!

Mark

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by MARK A

I bought a DeWalt 20V 1/2” drive impact wrench. It goes with me everywhere now.. It’s great!

Mark

That looks like a nice tool to add to our stable. Bit pricey but when you need it, sure will save some time. Right now I'm just using the cheater I have laying around for other tasks.
DeWalt 20V 1/2” drive impact wrench

[scottz]

Originally Posted by masterdrago

Hey Mark, When you made the change to 9/16" wheel studs, which and from where did you pick up the new lug nuts? I understand a set of the stainless run about $85. I did not know if the 9/16" would fit the wheel as opposed to the original 1/2" nuts??

The 9/16 lug nuts were extra; $108 or 32. Yes, they will fit. If your wheels are the same as mine, the holes are 5/8".

[Golfmedik]

I've had the Milwaukee Fuel 18V(1400 ft/lbs loosening torque) impact now for two weeks and have used it thee times. Expensive, but so worth it.

[scottz]

Mark, take a look at this photo, tell me if I have it laid out correctly; the only drawing I could find is pretty vague. Where did you attach the tee that goes on the end of the 19' hard line? Side of frame rail? What did you do with the excess hard line? On my Montana it is 15' from the battery compartment where I mounted the actuator to the front axle. I rented a flare kit, guess I'll cut off any excess. What's the purpose of the flex line after the 36" hard line? Guess it will become clearer as I start mounting stuff.

[Dave W]

Doggone - now I 'have' to buy another tool. I've been using a couple air aging and dying air impact guns but dragging the air line from my basement car shop which is 100+ feet from where the 5er is parked and firing up the compressor is getting really old. I only wish that I could afford a Milwaukee or even a DeWalt, but a Lowe's Kobalt will have to do the job at a couple hundred bucks less.

And this is all your fault here on the MOC