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Old 09-12-2008, 08:53 AM   #21
ehmcfarl
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Signal Mtn.
Posts: 280
M.O.C. #8206
Gotcha Brad, now it makes sense to me. I am still new on maneuvering around these RVs. I think this is the best thing for me to do. Just run a dedicated circuit for the air compressor. One more question if I could. Where do you buy the receptacles with the little plastic swivels on the ends (like a cut-in box uses) that is used hold them in the wall. I haven't pulled any of them out of the walls yet; but, I was told that no RV uses wall boxes to house the receptacles in.

Again, many thanks for the info.
 
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:02 AM   #22
bsmeaton
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
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Buddy,

The RV electrical devices are self contained, so they don't need a box. I have never found them, and actually don't like they way they splice into the wire. I just used "shallow" cut-in boxes from Home Depot. It gets tight in there, but they work if you use the side screws instead of the push in terminals (Most force you to anyway with 12-gauge wire because the push in holes are gauged to 14). For the basement, you could even surface mount, or go to the ceiling like Keystone did.

Good luck, and add a battery operated smoke detector to the basement while your down there! (my community service part in lieu of standing on the corner with the fire boot this year)
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:10 AM   #23
MacDR50
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Your compressor places a maximum draw of 12 amps on the circuit. Its first peak is when it starts and it then reaches its maximum as it builds pressure. Ten seconds into its running it is probably drawing significantly less then 12 amps.
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Old 09-12-2008, 10:01 AM   #24
ehmcfarl
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Thanks Brad for the info on the boxes, and the suggestion about the smoke detector. I'll add one when I run the new circuit. We are going to be in Pigeon Forge all next week so it will be week after next before I can get to it.
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