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09-18-2008, 03:23 AM
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#21
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Troy
Posts: 1,980
M.O.C. #808
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I've just been catching up on this water heater topic and wanted to make sure to tell fernsco to turn off the electric switch when there is no water in the tank and hooked up to shore power.
I'm not a full timer, so when I park my Montana beside the house after a trip, I drain the water heater tank and then put the Teflon tape on the rod and screw it back in. I flush out the tank a couple times a year like rames14 said.
I carry a spare rod that I purchased about 3 years ago, but as of today, I still have the original anode rod and there is still over 3/4 of it left. I think that is only due to not leaving water stand in the tank for weeks at a time, no other explanation I can think of. What it means is we are not using our Montana enough!
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09-18-2008, 05:22 AM
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#22
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by dsprik
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by SlickWillie
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fernsco
Yes, I see the switch on the outside. Thanks to all for the clarification and help. Also noticed I am close to needing a new anode already. Lots of rust, but one hard place to get a socket or vice scripts too!
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How did you determine you need a new anode if you have not removed the old one? Is there something I missed here?
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Will, you can simply pull it out and look at it. If most of it is left, you can teflon tape it back up and put it back in. It works until completely gone. I just have a routine of changing mine out once a year. Not that expensive. We [s]are[/s] were FTers, though.
I also use that time to flush the white crud out of the WH.
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From the post I felt the anode had not been removed yet. Thought perhaps they were just going by the rust on the outside hex on the anode.
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09-18-2008, 06:51 AM
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#23
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Selma
Posts: 102
M.O.C. #4412
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Question for DSPRIK You said you need a 1 ¹/16", six point socket (½" socket) and a breaker bar. Need a short extension.
What DEPTH of socket is needed standard or a deep socket and how long of an extension also ?
Thanks
Kim G (kegger5769)
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09-18-2008, 06:58 AM
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#24
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Nokesville
Posts: 70
M.O.C. #8144
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Thanks Emmel. When our Montana is not on the road we keep it at a private campground where we can hook up to water and electricity. However, to save wear and tear on the rig, we do not leave it hooked up. I will have to keep in the back of my mind that if I do leave it hooked up (if going back down the next weekend) to be sure to throw the switch or circuit breaker for the hot water heater if the tank is empty. I am going to buy an extra 9" anode as a spare like you did and keep it on hand. Already have a roll of teflon tape in the tool kit in the Montana.
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09-18-2008, 04:10 PM
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#25
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Fort Myers
Posts: 5,933
M.O.C. #4282
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by kegger5769
Question for DSPRIK You said you need a 1 ¹/16", six point socket (½" socket) and a breaker bar. Need a short extension.
What DEPTH of socket is needed standard or a deep socket and how long of an extension also ?
Thanks
Kim G (kegger5769)
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Kim, I believe it was a regular socket. Some have had problems, I know, but I had no problem with that setup.
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09-18-2008, 05:06 PM
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#26
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location:
Posts: 243
M.O.C. #549
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If you don't turn off the electric switch or pull circuit breaker before you drain tank, you will burn out the heater element. If you do Home Depot has replacement element for about $9 compared to RV Store $25+. Just get a 1000 watt replacement, 110 AMP about 10" long.
Been there, done that twice on the Monty. ALL my other rv's had a switch inside the unit for Elec function.
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