Swivel wheels for 5th wheel - Montana Owners Club

D&D Young · 06-30-2018, 06:22 PM

Swivel wheels for rear of 5th wheel. We recently purchased a Montana 3811 ms and we are having a difficult time getting it down to our house. We live on a narrow street that has approx 27 degree grade on one section if the hill. the bottom levels out and the rear of the unit will scrape. We ended up putting boards under the wheels to raise it high enough for the rear to clear. We removed the hitch from the frame and we now just clear It by like an inch. Does anyone know if the make small swevil wheels that can be connected to the frame that would raise the rear up a couple of inches without damaging the frame. There is 13' from the rear wheel to the end of the trailer. I have seen this type of wheel on travel trailers but never on a 5th wheel.
Yeah I know It was piss poor planning.

rohrmann · 06-30-2018, 10:41 PM

I had skid plates made that I bolted on each side of the rear end that works well for our rig. There are a number of places that carry rollers that can do what you are wanting. https://www.etrailer.com/search/rv+skid+rollers

D&D Young · 07-01-2018, 08:10 AM

[QUOTE]Bob and Becky, thanks for your response and the information regarding the skid wheels you installed on your 5th wheel. I need to raise the rear of the trailer like an inch or so to be sure I don't drag the rear when backing down my hill.
Do you have a pic of your set up that you can post or send me.

Thanks

**scottz** · 07-01-2018, 12:47 PM

I put skid wheels under mine on the hitch. You could do something similar attached to the frame. As Bob pointed out, they also come in a swivel version, but I have not used it.

jimcol · 07-01-2018, 02:29 PM

They came on our used 26' travel trailer. Previous owner needed them to get in his driveway. I only remember them helping once as we went up a steep drive to a liquor store in Flin Flon Canada. Was sure glad we had them but have since tried to avoid that steep of grade. 4" heavy duty swivel casters bolted right to the frame. Seen similar casters I think at Harbor Freight.

dhuhn · 07-01-2018, 08:04 PM

I had these wheels put on mine
https://www.etrailer.com/Skid-Wheels...ll-description
Had a welding shop mount them on back of mine, I had same problem as you. They did a good job of me not dragging back end.

**Rondo** · 07-01-2018, 09:29 PM

The wheels sound like a good idea but I myself would not put the swivel wheels on. Think of what would happen IF the wheels pivot the unit sideways as you come up a hill or in a drive and the unit swings to the side and hits something. If you put the wheels on that do not swivel you would have less of a chance of the unit swinging to the side and hitting something. JMHO You don't say what year your unit is but if it is less than 5 years old, putting the wheels onto the frame MAY void your frame warranty. I would check on this also before putting the wheels or skids on the frame.

packnrat · 07-02-2018, 02:07 AM

possable to adjust ride higth?
as in at the shackles? or spring over?
maybe a set of air shocks?
but if you must drag then get a set of heavy duty rollers ( not wheels think rolling pin) bolted on. bad ground/ dirt-rocks then curved skid plates

jimcol · 07-02-2018, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rondo

The wheels sound like a good idea but I myself would not put the swivel wheels on. Think of what would happen IF the wheels pivot the unit sideways as you come up a hill or in a drive and the unit swings to the side and hits something. If you put the wheels on that do not swivel you would have less of a chance of the unit swinging to the side and hitting something. JMHO You don't say what year your unit is but if it is less than 5 years old, putting the wheels onto the frame MAY void your frame warranty. I would check on this also before putting the wheels or skids on the frame.

Rondo, These wheels are not of the size they will bring the 5'er tires off the ground. They just decompress the 5'er suspension to keep from dragging the back of the unit.
See ya in a couple of weeks.

BuilderBob · 07-02-2018, 10:40 AM

I would not use the swivel kind I have seen them get torn off when the turn side ways I would the use the all steel ones they last longer!

D&D Young · 07-02-2018, 10:50 AM

After reading the responses I received I realized I left a few things out. So I will update. *My rig is a "2018" Montana 3811 with a lenght of 40' 9"which we purchased at the Tampa show in January.

*My road is a village road which is also a dead end without a cul-de-sac. I must back down the hill and turn 90 degrees into my driveway.

*After removing the hitch I clear with about 1 inch if I keep to the extreme right side of the road just inches away from my wall. Way to close for comfort.

* Since the distance is 13' from the rearmost tire to the end of the trailer, I will chance hitting the rear of the trailer into to road where it levels out.

*I do not need to lift the trailer so the wheels leave the ground but just need to let the skid wheels touch to keep it from scraping the rear and ripping the cap off. I think the metal wheels from etrailer would work fine causing little or no damage to the pavement.

* I would only drag/scrape for approx 4 feet.

I am adding several pictures to give a better idea of my situation.

This tire in the road indicates where the trailer will hit. ;Also the house at the bottom of the hill is my neighbors, my house is on the left side and not visible in the pictures. I also have to start my turn when my drivers door is between the pole and guide wire.
I have pics but can't upload them.

This topic is also on IRV2, under the same title with pics

D&D Young · 07-02-2018, 01:34 PM

Here are pic of my road.

BuilderBob · 07-03-2018, 01:52 PM

Hay Dennis you should be good at backing into those tight camping spots! At least you don't have any culverts to miss! One place we go a lot has 6' deep culverts on both sides of the real narrow road for drainage in the winter time I'v seen at lest 2 guys drive right into them when the grass is tall. The metal wheels should help you out a lot.

papasiemers · 07-04-2018, 01:46 PM

Had the same problem with my 2015 343RL. When I backed over the yard to my parking pad, next to the house, the bumper and spare tire carrier would drag on the ground. Even to the point of bending the tire carrier so that it had to be replaced.

I ended up installing 6 inch swivel steel tires to the back of the frame. I still have to put down boards (1 1/8 inch plywood) so that the wheels do not sink into the lawn and create a rut. My wife has no sense of humor, it's just the front yard.

I not only have to back up onto the yard, but also at an angle and then thru the gate. Makes for an interesting exercise every time.

John Shasky · 07-04-2018, 03:23 PM

Watch out for clearance for the bottom of the ladder too. I know from experience they break easily!

Wyatt Earp · 07-04-2018, 03:28 PM

What about the rear leveling jacks? Are they high enough to clear? Have you had to raise them for this reasons? Sorry for so many questions but the last thing I need is to damage my jacks. Thanks.

Fremont · 07-04-2018, 04:25 PM

Fill in the low spot in the road to Evan out the pitch.

Mark7 · 07-04-2018, 07:57 PM

If I have my bearings right, you are also blindsiding the 90º corner! Bet you get good at that!

D&D Young · 07-04-2018, 08:31 PM

We orderd the Ultra Fab Steel Jumbo Rollers. This should work out fine for us. They should keep me a couple of inches off the pavement. The road was just repaved last September so there is no chance of getting it changed. As for backing it in, it is on the blind side but it's not bad. I have a good view of the side of the trailer so it's ok.
Thanks to all that took the time to read and answer my post.

When they arrive from Etrailer and get installed I will let you know what I think off them

GreatWhite · 07-04-2018, 09:46 PM

Well, I have a set of bolt on wheels for the back of an RV. I'd sell them for $25+shipping.. never used.

That said.. I don't like the thought of using them due to the stress they put on the frame. Think of the pressure on the back and the possible racking of your coach.. flexing, possibly breaking seals, windows, etc. I know people have done it. I would not.

That said 2. Have you considered flipping your axles? I've done that on two fivers and it works great.. your entire unit sits about 4" higher. You can do it yourself or you can have an RV tech or frame shop do it for you. Instead of the axle being on the top of the springs, they are remounted on the bottom. It gives extra clearance if traveling over rough areas.. but it also adds what might be the right amount of clearance to get into your spot.

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