Hot Water Heater - Less Hot Water

[TYR]

Typically I can get through a shower with plenty of hot water, but not so the past few nights. Dave mentioned just a little while ago that the hot water did not seem as hot or last as long when doing dishes. This is a new issue.

We're full-timers and are on shore power, so we run the hot water heater on electric.

Thoughts? Thermostat/element going bad?

Could there be build-up in the HWH tank and perhaps needs flushing? I've read to do this with vinegar . . .

We've had a brutal winter here in New Jersey, so there are several routine maintenance items we'll be tackling when the weather gets warm enough to do so.

No, I haven't pulled out the manual yet as it's getting kind of late but will do so tomorrow. Asking here at this time of evening is easier than getting out my manuals and besides, you all typically have much more information than the manuals!

Thoughts are appreciated! Hope everyone is staying safe and warm. Bring on Spring!

[H. John Kohl]

I would suggest turning off and flushing the tank. Check the anode rod and see what junk is coming out. From there it is a couple options. If a lot of junk I would look at coated heating element. Pull and check.
If element looks ok then I am guessing faulty thermostat.

Try using propane to heat water when shower needed. I am guessing the thermostat controls both but do not know for sure.

This is all wild guesses because I have not had that problem yet.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

[Ozz]

John is right on...as usual.
I would add that it would be prudent to have a spare element on hand and also get the correct socket to remove the element.
A new thermostat wouldn't break the bank, then you would have a 'like new' heater after the work done. Sorry it is cold there, spring will come.
Ozz

[BB_TX]

Rather than using vinegar, I would suggest you get a water heater rinser like this. Pull the anode rod, insert the rinser, and flush out the tank. I get a lot of junk out of mine each year. Good time to check you anode rod also if you have not lately.

[Carl n Susan]

The "gunk" which accumulates in the water would have to be really deep (as in no anode left) to start to impede the electric water heater. Take John's suggestion and try using propane for a while. There are two thermostats - one for electric, one for propane. That is why there are two reset ports in the heater.

I suspect you have a faulty thermostat on the electric side. Suburban changed suppliers (Hecho in China) a while back and got a bunch of bad ones. Remove the rubber cover over the reset buttons, the thermostat on the left is the electric one. If it has a red plastic reset button it was manufactured by the old (bad) supplier. Newer thermostats have a gray plastic reset button. One indication of problems is burning or arcing on the top terminal. In my case, the water just never got hot. Warm yes, hot - not so much. Suburban was supplying the newer ones for no charge last year. You might give them a call.

Changing the thermostat is easy. Just be sure you turn off the electric (and propane) hot water switches so there is no stray voltage present.

[TYR]

Taking John's suggestion, I switched the HWH to propane for my shower last night. Wow, did I have a wonderful shower again! Plenty of hot water. That's the way it used to be with the HWH running on electric. Whoohoo! Thanks, John!

So, guess that sounds like the electric thermostat?

Checking that and changing it out is just one more project added to our our list of TLC things to do for Monty when the weather levels out around here. It's nice right now, but rain later today and still some snow in the forecast for this week.

[Bigboomer]

quote:Originally posted by TxYellowRose

Taking John's suggestion, I switched the HWH to propane for my shower last night. Wow, did I have a wonderful shower again! Plenty of hot water. That's the way it used to be with the HWH running on electric. Whoohoo! Thanks, John!

So, guess that sounds like the electric thermostat?

Checking that and changing it out is just one more project added to our our list of TLC things to do for Monty when the weather levels out around here. It's nice right now, but rain later today and still some snow in the forecast for this week.

Betty,

I hear you with the forecast...wishing Spring would pop already! Been a tough one this year but we have survived so there are no complaints more looking forward to some Robins in the camp.

Along with everyones great things to look for, do you have a filter on the water line? I know in this area (NW NJ/ NE PA) there is a lot of iron and sulfar in the water and that will corrode the anode up and leave a lot of goop in the bottom. We installed a 3 stage filter system with one of them being for iron and it has made a big difference.

Stay warm over there!

Les

[steelpony5555]

For $10-$12 my money is on the heating element. As Oz said get the socket thing to change it. I think it was like another $4-$5 and then you'll have it for future use. The elements do go bad.

[TYR]

Thanks for all the comments, ya'll. Dave will be looking at our HWH today, pulling the anode, etc. We are thinking it's the element and/or the anode. At any rate, we're sure it needs a clean-out flush.

We'll probably get one of those flushers, too. That looked pretty nifty and I read good reviews on them at the Camping World Web site. The closest RV dealer is about 45 miles from here and there's a Camping World about 75 miles from here. So then it's a toss up of whether to order online or go pick up; I really like to see parts before purchasing them just to make sure I'm getting the right one. You know, take the old one in and compare. Would also love to make a road trip of going to CW (sans Monty of course), especially as I've never been in one (can you believe that???); however, we've got snow, rain and wind in our lousy weather forecast the next few days. At any rate, gotta get this taken care of one way or another.

Les, yes, there is an inline water filter at the water supply here on the property. We are on a well. Hey, I did see the first groundhog of the year yesterday afternoon and my tulips are coming up again now, so maybe Spring really isn't far away!

I tell ya, we've had one crazy, hard Winter up here this year. I'm ready for warm weather and a week at the beach!

Thanks again, everybody! Safe travels!
Betty

[NCFischers]

If you have ever turned the electric on for the water heater without water in the tank, the element will have burned out in a very short time.

[snfexpress]

From our experience, the socket needed was a thin wall one.

[halfwright]

This opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Elements are a go-nogo item. They do not slowly go out. The electricity will flow through them until they burn out. Thermostats are a different item. They will do funny things, like fade over time.

[TYR]

Okay, after replacement of the anode and element (which both needed it anyway), we are still in the same spot as we were yesterday with water temperature.

We're full-timers currently static. There was plenty of water in the tank. The water on electric is warm, then fades to cool/cold. Was working great until last week.

Next thing must be the thermostat. Is it located behind the reset buttons?

Like if I take off the reset button cover, is the thermostat there?

Darn manual has that blown out schematic which shows part 15 to be the "Cover, Thermostat/Hi-Limit" so I'm guessing that's where it is. Dang if I can find a part number that actually says "Thermostat."

So the thermostat should be an easy thing to replace?

Is there a resource with step-by-step instructions on replacing the thermostat?

Found videos online of replacing a thermostat but they're for Atwood HWH, not Suburban.

Sigh. Give me a decent manual and instructions and I can do the job. Hate floundering about.

Again, plenty of hot water when on propane.

Thanks.

[Ozz]

Here ya go buddy:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad =rja&ved=0CE4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwaterheatertim er.org%2FHow-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html&ei=LB1DUYDFBMakrQGx04HoCQ&usg=AFQjCNF-C_mmqfOMoLMdPCHHC4RXENUw9w

[Ozz]

Here is some good instruction.
You will do fine

http://tinyurl.com/Changeout

[TYR]

Ozz, thanks for the thought, but the links were for a household water heater. I'm talking about our Suburban HWH in our Monty.

[BB_TX]

Here are a couple of links that might help.
exploded parts view For some reason they only list the part number for the 12v thermostat and not the 120 vac thermostat
and
WH manual Scroll down to the thermostat section for picture and ID numbers.
But it looks like you can buy thermostats here.
Or maybe this view and parts list is even better.

[Carl n Susan]

As I wrote three days ago, the thermostat is the problem and it is very simple to change. Remove the rubber cover over the Reset Buttons (two screws hold the retainer plate) and you will see two 1/2" x 2" (+/-) pieces of metal. The left one is the electrical side thermostat. Unplug the two wires and remove the screws holding it in. Install a replacement thermostat by revering the steps. If you buy the replacement (get one with grey reset buttons!!!) first you will see how easy it is to change.

If my RV was here I would take pictures for you. This is a good project to document for the next time someone has a problem.

[TYR]

Carl and Susan,

Thank you! That's what I was asking for! From looking at the manual and the diagram, I figured that's where the thermostat was but wasn't sure.

I agree, documenting this is an excellent idea and I will. I have a girlfriend close to retirement who is planning on getting a 5th wheel, so I'm already compiling notes, tips and tricks, etc. for her. This will definitely be one of them!

Thanks again! It's cold and overcast with rain and snow in the forecast this weekend, so we'll tackle this as weather permits. At least we have great hot water with the HWH running on propane!

Betty

[Ozz]

This is on mine.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink