Replacing the Anode Rod

[Glenn and Lorraine]

How often do you replace the anode rod in the hot water heater?

[kdeiss]

Glenn, I replace mine about every 3 years.It starts to get thin for lack of a better word. I hit it with a wire brush to clean it in the spring. Now I am not full timing so keep that in mind.

[NJ Hillbilly]

They tend to disintegrate near the plug end. I guess it's the chemical reaction between the rod and the pipe plug that causes this. More than 3/4 of my rod looks like new but the end near the plug is getting a little dissolved. We won't be camping too many more times this year so I plan to replace it in the Spring. I do carry an extra one.
I would keep an eye on it since I would not want it breaking off (especially while bouncing down the road) and rolling around the inside of the tank forever, it would probable be pretty hard to fish it out.

John

[BigBlue]

It really depends on where you travel and the water you get in the system. We had to replace our anode rod after one summer of traveling (trip to Washington state and back plus some weekends) We didn't drain the system during idle periods. At the end of summer when I drained the water heater for winterizing I saw the rod was about gone.

[joe2speed]

Glenn, if your full timing and the water heater is constandly used it would not hurt to change every six months. the rods are under $10 so we are not talking a lot of $$.

[sreigle]

Glenn, I used to check it at the end of every camping season but only changed it after about two years. When fulltiming I try to check it about every six months. The first time it was about half gone, best estimate, so I changed it (I keep a spare in the basement). The second time it looked almost brand new. I'm overdue to check it again and will do so end of the week when we get back to the KC area. The others have given good advice, too. John mentioned possibility it would break off when thin. I hadn't thought of that. Our heater is at the extreme rear where it gets bounced around.

[Montana_593]

I believe the tech guy on the RV Today show recommended to change out every year. I remember it because they have now played that particular show about 10 or 12 times. See sometimes reruns are good.

[OntMont]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

John mentioned possibility it would break off when thin. I hadn't thought of that. Our heater is at the extreme rear where it gets bounced around.

I was helping a friend winterize his Cougar last night, he removed the anode rod and it was almost all gone, but... there seems to be a steel core that does not corrode away. I doubt that they would ever break off, but it is still a good idea to change them as suggested.

[BillyRay]

I agree with big blue, depends on the type of water and frequency of use. I check mine every year...I've had some years where it was real bad and some where I've reused it the second year. just inspect it on a regular basis.

[snowbunny]

I will agree with OntMont. When we left for the rally our anode was about half way through near the threads. Yesterday I pulled it out to replace and it was all gone except for the steel core holding the eight inch tip to the threads. I wonder if it works like that? It should as steel is a good conductor.

[OntMont]

quote:Originally posted by snowbunny

I will agree with OntMont. When we left for the rally our anode was about half way through near the threads. Yesterday I pulled it out to replace and it was all gone except for the steel core holding the eight inch tip to the threads. I wonder if it works like that? It should as steel is a good conductor.

No, it won't work like that. The anode is properly called a "sacrificial anode". It is usually a magnesium rod that corrodes very easily, thus protecting any the other metallic components from corrosion.

[Montana_1235]

In the Keystone manual it suggests the anode rod be changed annually, more often if the water has more iron in it. I had mine in the last camper for three seasons before it needed changing. If you are full timing you may want to check it every six months or so. Traveling you come across different types of water systems and are subject to the rod deteriorating faster.

Bill

[Bowie]

Holy smokes folks--we sure better keep an eye on those handy rods!! Just winterized the rig--and the state of the rod was amazing--at least 50% gone at the top! We DID take that long cross country trip but no way we used the rig like some of you full-timers must. I would err on the side of conservatism and check every 3 months if I was on the road full-time and didn't know what the water was doing to my equipment. It only takes a few seconds to save yourself a lot of trouble.

[harleyrider]

Ok I have a question on this rod.Where is it???haven`t drained my hot water heater yet so i`am clueless.When you take the drain plug off is it connected to that?And if it is does it screw on to the plug??Thanks for your help.

[OntMont]

quote:Originally posted by harleyrider


When you take the drain plug off is it connected to that?
YES

And if it is does it screw on to the plug??
NO, you replace the entire plug/rod assembly, costs about $10.

[Chester]

On our trailer I have changed the rod after the first season, then had another last a couple of years. It depends on the water you get so in my mind it's best to check it regularly. In our case we do not fulltime so I drained the HW tank after each vacation. This lets you keep on top of it.

Just be REAL careful putting the rod/plug back in. It's very easy to crossthread it. There's not a lot of finger room on most of the HW tanks. I've also found that to totally prevent drips I put plumbers tape on the plug.

[sreigle]

Speaking of that, has anyone discovered an easy way to get the plug/anode rod started threading properly?

[jerryb]

if you stick your tongue out like Mike Jordon it helps to get it threaded. I wonder if using the electric element has anything to do with wear of the anode, it used to on some block heaters. We have been in Az. with a lot of salt in the water and that didn't seem to bother it.

[OntMont]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Speaking of that, has anyone discovered an easy way to get the plug/anode rod started threading properly?

I ran into that the other day too. I found that if I put the plug into a socket with a short extension bar attached, the extension bar balanced the weight of the anode rode sticking out the other side, and the plug could easily be started by hand. At least it seemed to work for me, or maybe I just got lucky.

[sreigle]

OntMont, that's how I do it, too, and it was easier than with just the plug/rod itself but still seemed a bit unwieldy.

Jerryb, does the tongue go on the left or right side?