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Old 12-09-2019, 01:00 PM   #1
Hamlej
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Grey Tank Leak

Discovered about 30 gallons of grey water from kitchen sink sitting in the belly of the trailer. Removed the coroplast and found a leak at the clamp where it exits into the dump valve. Not sure what to do as the pipe was cut to short before insert into the tank. It needs to be about an inch longer for the clamp to tighten down around the pipe. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:59 AM   #2
Desert Rat
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You might look into rubber fernco flexble connectors. I have used them to connect 1 1/2" and 2" pieces of pipe together. It's basically a length of a thick rubber tubing together with hose clamps on the ends. I bought mine at Home Depot. clicky
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Old 12-10-2019, 05:30 AM   #3
jeffba
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can you tell if the tank has moved?
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Old 12-10-2019, 08:30 AM   #4
Daryles
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Maybe glue this (with LOTS of pipe glue) hub-hub repair to the grey tank.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlott...00HD/203393300
Then use this 3" pipe coupler to join to the valve.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-3...9-33/203310955
BTW, while you have the bottom open, can you see what tank heaters you have (pictures?) I am curious what Keystone is using. Also is there any insulation between the coroplast and tanks (4 season?)?
Also, where does the furnace duct that heats the underbelly come out at?
Maybe I should just open mine up to satisfy my curiosity, lol.
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Old 12-10-2019, 08:32 AM   #5
richfaa
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What desert rat said.
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:55 AM   #6
WeBeFulltime
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I also agree with Desert Rat.
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Old 12-10-2019, 02:25 PM   #7
Texan
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I have used rubber coupling at Home Depot and it works great. As for as insulation there is a reflector piece on the coroplast that I assume is used as insulation but it is very thin.I don't think there is really any rv that I would consider 4 season. More like 3 season on account as much problem as we all have cooling these monster rv's heating them to me is more difficult unless you use strictly the central heat and that can be very expensive.
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Old 12-15-2019, 09:57 AM   #8
Hamlej
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I installed the rubber flexible hose and thought the problem was solved then 2 days later we heard a loud bang and discovered the grey water tank fell through bottom of the trailer. We called an RV mobile tech to see if this could be repaired on site. Little did I know or realize that the separation at the inlet was caused by the tank support bracket that was bent causing the tank to shift. Long story short when installed at the factory the tank rests on a stationary cross member at the front and removable cross member at the back of the tank. The tank has a lip all around that rests on these supports. Unfortunately when mine was installed the removable support was placed to far back and just an 1/8 inch of the lip was setting on the supports. As we traveled down the road with waste in the tank it kept bouncing on the very edge of the support causing it to bend downward. It finally got to the point where it allowed the tank to fall through. The mobile tech straightened out the support and reinforced it with angled iron and drilled new holes to mount the support firmly under lips of the tank. Just for my own piece of mind I also had him fabricate and install a bracket across the bottom of the tank.
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Old 12-15-2019, 10:12 AM   #9
Hamlej
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Here is a few pictures of the bent cross member and itís repair
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Old 12-15-2019, 04:38 PM   #10
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I had one of our cross members bend also. We straightened it and set it back into place. Fingers crossed, no more problems and that was two years ago. When we had the mobile tech come out for the tank, he was the one that found it. He said the biggest problem is folks fill their tanks to full and this brace is not made for that weigh and it bends. He told me to only fill the tank about half full or so if possible and then dump. It has worked so far and I'll keep up the practice until I hear or see differently. Oh, by the way when we bent the brace back we also reinforced it with another piece of steel bar to make sure it did not bend again also.
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Old 12-15-2019, 05:44 PM   #11
rohrmann
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After developing a leak in our grey tank several years ago, and was able to repair it with a Plastmend kit, I decided the cause of the leak was due to the bottom of the tank flexing with the weight of water as it filled. I installed two extra braces along with the two that already were installed, I suppose to support the weight of the coroplast, glued varying thicknesses of blocks to the bottom of the grey and black tanks so the braces would contact the blocks after the coroplast was reinstalled and the braces were also reinstalled. Now, the actual weight of the tanks filled with waste is supported by the braces, not the lips of the tanks. I think I've read that the tank manufacturers specify that the lips should not be used alone to support the tanks. We can now dry camp and have the tanks completely full prior to dumping or having a pump out without worrying about having a tank break.
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Old 12-16-2019, 05:07 AM   #12
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Rohrman -
Are all 3 of the steel braces removable?
Are the wood supports anchored/ attached to the steel braces?
Two of the boards are red...why are the red? Paint? Or some sort of wrap? And why? Just curious.
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Old 12-16-2019, 08:28 AM   #13
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Ok, how about the black and freshwater tank?
Do they also have the same design defect?
Lack of center support, held on by the edge lips?
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:18 AM   #14
rohrmann
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikendebbie View Post
Rohrman -
Are all 3 of the steel braces removable?
Are the wood supports anchored/ attached to the steel braces?
Two of the boards are red...why are the red? Paint? Or some sort of wrap? And why? Just curious.

Actually, there are four braces, two were the original U-shaped ones and two 1 1/2" angle iron braces I added, so they are about a foot apart from each other. I attached them with the same 1/4 X 1" TEK screws like what was used on the other braces and also used to attach the coroplast. The tanks are sloped at 1/2" per foot, so I just grabbed a couple of 2 X 4's I had laying around to start with, as that spot was at the 1 1/2" space. Not having any other scrap lumber, I ended up buying a sheet of 1/2" foam board and a roll of tape that happened to be red. I cut the board to make a 1/2", 1", and 2" spacers. I then installed the braces and glued the blocks of foam taped together with the red tape to the bottom of the tanks with silicone caulking. After that was set up, I removed the braces, installed the coroplast back on, and then reinstalled the braces. This is a better photo of the braces.
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:24 PM   #15
rohrmann
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I have never had to open up to see the galley tank, but yes, I believe that tank is also hung by the lips but seeing as its a smaller tank, and I try to keep it from filling all the way, it has never been a problem yet. The fresh tank is a different material and has straps around it holding it up, and we keep it full always and have never had an issue with it. The waste tanks on ours and most up until a couple years ago, I think, are made of ABS, and the fresh tank is some type of polypropylene I believe, so it's much stronger.
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:34 PM   #16
Texan
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My tank bracing is about the same as yours except not quite as colorful. I had several different thicknesses of boards so I could fill in the gaps snug and screw them all in together and then drill small holes in angle bracing and screw some short screws through brace into the wood. I just made a 4300 mile trip this fall and a 3200 mile trip last year and they seem to work very well. Just installed rods on my gray and black tanks in place of the cables so I hope I am all set for a few years of trouble free tanks.
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