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Old 08-03-2018, 09:17 AM   #21
Sappruski
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Ok, those are not like mine i guess. My stairs are full carpet. there are louvers under the Fridg that are about 2' square on the left of the stairs and a floor louver on the right side of the stairs. I wasn't sure if i could take the one off that is under the fridg and seal that one up or not??
Thanks for the pics as now i know mine is different.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:00 PM   #22
Phil P
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Ok, those are not like mine i guess. My stairs are full carpet. there are louvers under the Fridg that are about 2' square on the left of the stairs and a floor louver on the right side of the stairs. I wasn't sure if i could take the one off that is under the fridg and seal that one up or not??
Thanks for the pics as now i know mine is different.

Hi

I would make sure the ones under the refrigerator may be needed for the refrigerator I would make sure they are not there to provide ventilation for the refrigerator. Even the domestic electric refrigerators need air circulation to work.

How about some pictures so we can see what you are talking about.

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Old 08-03-2018, 07:01 PM   #23
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Pics

I will need to figure out how to add pics from my phone and I will put up these pics. Thanks
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Old 08-03-2018, 10:34 PM   #24
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Pics

Here is the fridg and the pics. Thanks for help
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:19 AM   #25
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I fully understand the cold air return system in a S&B home. That return air is plumbed into the inlet side of the furnace squirrel cage blower. An RV - that return air just becomes 'common' air in the basement and belly area and requires more Btu input to replace that heat which is lost by recirculating through that virtually open to the atmosphere basement. Those return air grilles without a plenum/ducting then becomes useless as 'preheated air with a slightly open window or roof vent doing about as much good for good heat circulation. Add some ducting back to that inefficiant furnace from the grills and you will probably pick up several efficiancy percentage points.


Now, with that said - yep, I block off those grilles to preserve a/c cool air or cold air on a chilly morning seeping in. Other then that, it is what it is - an inefficient system that should be better (but only at an added cost to buy an RV)
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:52 AM   #26
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Here is the fridg and the pics. Thanks for help
That area was the furnace return in our previous TT. If you have an RV refrigerator, as far as I know it does not require any inside ventilation. You should have two outside air openings for the refer.
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:53 AM   #27
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I fully understand the cold air return system in a S&B home. That return air is plumbed into the inlet side of the furnace squirrel cage blower. An RV - that return air just becomes 'common' air in the basement and belly area and requires more Btu input to replace that heat which is lost by recirculating through that virtually open to the atmosphere basement. Those return air grilles without a plenum/ducting then becomes useless as 'preheated air with a slightly open window or roof vent doing about as much good for good heat circulation. Add some ducting back to that inefficiant furnace from the grills and you will probably pick up several efficiancy percentage points.


Now, with that said - yep, I block off those grilles to preserve a/c cool air or cold air on a chilly morning seeping in. Other then that, it is what it is - an inefficient system that should be better (but only at an added cost to buy an RV)
I think the system is designed that way to provide heat to the water lines.
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:02 AM   #28
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So if that area below the fridge is not needed for the fridge then it would be ok to block during the summer months as cooling is our main concern but will open up if we ever use the furnace. There is a good amount of area down there seems like a waste of possible storage area. Has anyone done this in a 15 318re
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:53 AM   #29
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I think the system is designed that way to provide heat to the water lines.

Our last 5er, a Glendale Titanium as well as the current High Country both had/have a hot air duct directly to the tanks and water lines
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Old 08-04-2018, 12:04 PM   #30
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Our 3121 has switches for tank heaters. Looking behind the basement wall, the water lines are all within the open area under the floor and open to the return registers. But there may be a furnace supply duct under there too. That would make sense, I may have misspoke. I'll pull the walls down and check as soon as I can.
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Old 08-04-2018, 05:35 PM   #31
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I think the basement wall buts up to this wall below the fridge. I can see the back side of the water heater and a hot water line through the louver. I guess I can just go ahead and take that louver out and really see what all is down there and see if that is where the cold air is getting into the basement.
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Old 08-05-2018, 07:11 AM   #32
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Sapproski, One of my previous campers had a louver similar to your pic. The furnace was mounted under the fridge so the louver was absolutely necessary in that case since there would be no where else to draw air from. FYI I removed that louver/ cut it down a bit/ hinged it so it would swing open easily and latch with a magnetic catch. Long shot, but maybe yours is the same ?
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Old 08-05-2018, 08:32 AM   #33
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That is a great idea Thanks everyone for all of the information. Great site!!!
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:06 AM   #34
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Thanks for the pictures. Without pictures it's just words open to misinterpretation.
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Old 08-06-2018, 05:44 PM   #35
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We have a 2010 Mountaineer rear kitchen, slotted wooden grill on first step going to the bedroom. The duct, if you can call it that, is a thin aluminum sheet stapled over 2x2(?) aluminum runners running the length of the trailer. It runs up the middle of the trailer from back to front. Not airtight by any stretch of the imagination, nor insulated. Three-floor registers, one between bathroom and bedroom, one in middle of coach near the entry door, and one a couple feet from the tail end of the trailer. Like this illustration from the furnace service manual. There are no other ducts coming off the furnace.

Ductexample.jpg

I have not pulled the underbelly cover. I've been behind the convenience center trying to silence the water pump. I've been behind the main cargo bay panels doing converter maintenance. From what I remember there is no flexible ductwork coming off the aluminum duct, at least as far as I could see along the duct. Couldn't tell if Keystone put a register on the bottom of the duct somewhere towards the back out of sight. All of the other open gaps described by dieselguy are present in our unit.

So based on this apparent design, it seems Keystone is using radiant heat from the duct to warm the underbelly. The floor registers seem to be our units primary outlets for the furnace. It seems to me the grill under the steps can be sealed off (at least in our unit) during the summer. And most likely during the winter and shouldn't have return air issues.

There has to be an easy way to measure return air flow for blocked off and unblock step grill

All thoughts, suggestions, concerns, recommendations welcomed.
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Old 08-08-2018, 10:03 PM   #36
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Remove grills, cover from back side with saran wrap and cover floor grills from back side with saran wrap . Cuts down on hot draft in summer and keeps dirt out of furnace ducts in floor. Easy to remove for winter
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:12 AM   #37
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Simple and easy. One of those why didn't I think of that solutions. Will try it this weekend. Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:25 AM   #38
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Remove grills, cover from back side with saran wrap and cover floor grills from back side with saran wrap . Cuts down on hot draft in summer and keeps dirt out of furnace ducts in floor. Easy to remove for winter
I think we have a winner! Do you just tape the saran wrap to the back of the vent?
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:16 AM   #39
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Had the AC running and pulled the back wall of the basement forward. greeted to blast of cold air.

Will sommerize the vents for sure.
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Old 08-10-2018, 01:47 PM   #40
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Have not heard the Saran Wrap version before but I like the idea and I think I'll do this on the unit to see how it works. Thanks!
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