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Old 08-06-2018, 07:48 PM   #1
Bsorge
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Underbelly removal

I have 2008 Montana 3500RL and am wanting to know how hard is it to remove the underbelly? All 3 of my tank valves are a b#@=÷ to open and close. I am installing electrics valves and want to know if it's worth paying RV dealer to do...
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:21 PM   #2
DQDick
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My 2010 used screws to hold the underbelly on. Lots of screws.
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:32 PM   #3
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Our 2015 still has self tappers to include the cross braces. Easy to deal with. Unlike the newer ones where nail guns were used. Not hard. I decided on direct threaded rod pulls which. Have worked well for us but understand the electric configurations are nice to have.
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Old 08-06-2018, 09:03 PM   #4
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You can do it. Regardless of how the bottom comes off, do it and you will have confidence in going up there when something breaks on the road. If it is held up with "nails" let us know and we'll share the trick in dealing with them. Like ^^ the direct pull valves are as simple and reliable as it gets.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:16 PM   #5
Bsorge
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It has screws. I'm very mechanical just would be doing it alone in my driveway.
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:26 PM   #6
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I completely removed the coroplast material from the front belly area a few years ago to repair a crack in the gray tank. While in there, I secured all the electric, hydraulic, and the black tank flush line up to the frame and also added a couple more braces with foam blocking the provide support to both the tanks. It would have been nice having a second person to help reinstall the coroplast, but I managed. I would recommend getting additional Tek screws as you will likely have some break or get lost.
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:21 AM   #7
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I used a floor jack with about a 3x3 piece of plywood in the center of the coroplast and jacked it up to the tanks then went around the edges and screwed it up. As Bob said you will need some extra self tapping screws.
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:05 AM   #8
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Self tapping hex head screws with fender washers work well
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:02 AM   #9
Caniel
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I used a bottle Jack and a 4 foot 2x4. A bit of a balancing act getting the first few screws in. After first few screws it became easier with minor height adjustments as I worked my way forward.
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:33 AM   #10
Bsorge
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Thanks all for the tips. It's going to be my fall project before winter sets in. Will post pictures as I get it done thank you
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:44 AM   #11
Idalogger52
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My black water valve won’t fully close and my grey ( galley) valve vale’s cable is about 4” too long it seems. My question is: do you have to remove the whole underbelly in order to get to these? We have a 2014 3155RL .
TIA
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Old 08-07-2018, 10:54 AM   #12
carl n susan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idalogger52 View Post
<snip>
.... My question is: do you have to remove the whole underbelly in order to get to these? We have a 2014 3155RL
</snip>
TIA
No, you only have to drop the last 2' of the coroplast at the rear of the dropped frame section. Everything you need to access is right there.
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:27 PM   #13
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You might want to rethink the electric valves. I had to use 2 hands to open/close my black tank valve. I was afraid it would break out in the boonies, so I had a Valterra valve installed. I can open it with two fingers - one if I really try hard. Way, WAY better now. I have had it for a year with about 4 months of camping on it.
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:00 PM   #14
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Nail removal

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Originally Posted by Montana Man View Post
.....If it is held up with "nails" let us know and we'll share the trick in dealing with them. Like ^^ the direct pull valves are as simple and reliable as it gets.
This got my curiosity going so I looked at mine today and I have the “nails”. I don’t need to remove my coroplast at the present time - but how do you remove those things? And I assume you go back with self tappers that are removable - right?does the nail come out completely so that you can run a screw back into the same hole?
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Old 08-07-2018, 07:34 PM   #15
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This got my curiosity going so I looked at mine today and I have the “nails”. I don’t need to remove my coroplast at the present time - but how do you remove those things? And I assume you go back with self tappers that are removable - right?does the nail come out completely so that you can run a screw back into the same hole?
I got this tip from scottz, cut out the plastic you see near the head of the nail. I used dykes to distort it, then pinch it off. Then with a 1/4" socket on a ratchet, give the nail a rotation to break its friction from the frame. Then as you "unscrew" it, pry the nail downward with a pry tool of your choice. A standard screwdriver works. It pops out very easily. Replace with a #14 3/4" self drilling/tapping screw in the same hole, with a fender washer to fit.

I replaced all the nails with screws so when stuff breaks on the road I can get in there and fix stuff.
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:28 AM   #16
Bsorge
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Why rethink the electric valves? Have you heard bad things? I'm just thinking it would be a lot easier for my SO to operate when I'm not around...
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Old 08-08-2018, 11:49 AM   #17
twindman
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Originally Posted by Bsorge View Post
Why rethink the electric valves? Have you heard bad things? I'm just thinking it would be a lot easier for my SO to operate when I'm not around...
Just a money thing. I think the Valterra valve is $70/80 ballpark. I know the power valves are much more.
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Old 08-14-2018, 05:14 PM   #18
Montana Man
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Why rethink the electric valves? Have you heard bad things? I'm just thinking it would be a lot easier for my SO to operate when I'm not around...
Electrics are just more things to go wrong. But someone did say they had electrics with a manual pull backup.
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:28 AM   #19
miton 5052
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Just thought I would jump in on this one we have drainmaster electric valves they work very well. Drainmaster has excellent customer service, installation is about a 5 on a 1-10.you do not have to remove all the underbelly just take it loose about 3' pull it down and fold it back the valves will be fully accessible, make sure you raise you trailer in the front when you drain the tanks , this will help get as much water as possible, you will still need a bucket once you break the seal.good luck
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Old 08-15-2018, 08:10 AM   #20
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Electrics are just more things to go wrong. But someone did say they had electrics with a manual pull backup.
I would be interested in what brand and model they were talking about
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