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11-22-2018, 09:54 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arlington
Posts: 2
M.O.C. #14185
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Repositioning waste valves?
My '15 3611RL is in need of waste valve service for the second time. Not sure if the issue is the cables binding, or the valves sticking, but I'm tired of going through this every 2 years or less. Rather than replace the valves this often, we've decided to go to drainmaster electric valves. My issue is in the placement of the existing valves. The electric valves will not simply slide into the flange. They have to be mounted upright, and there's a metal brace directly above them. The flange is cemented directly into the waste tank so it's not an option to remove the flange and extend it about 2". I could leave the existing valves in place and just leave them open, installing the new valves in the pipe, away from the tank. Will those old valves eventually leak? Would it be an option to replace the seals, remove the valve body, and bolt the 2 flange pieces directly together. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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11-22-2018, 10:04 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Carson City
Posts: 2,017
M.O.C. #21963
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I wouldn't have any concerns about leaving the existing valves open and in place and mounting the electrics down stream. Let us know how this project ends up.
__________________
2016 3160, Legacy, Sailuns, Splendide 2100 xc vented, 1 1/2" axle lift blocks, disk brakes. 2014 Ram 3500 SRW SWB 4X4 6.7 Aisin Mega Cab, EBC slotted disks and brakes, Titan fuel tank.
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11-22-2018, 10:13 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Pensacola (mail forward service)
Posts: 3,198
M.O.C. #13740
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Bummer about how they designed your system. I would think that you could remove the valve and bolt the flanges together if you made a custom rubber gasket to fit in between. Should be easy to make it since you will have the one flange cut out and can do it at a bench. Or use a properly sized o ring that is a good enough diameter so that it seals okay. I would prefer making one out of sheet rubber though as you can use the four bolts to hold it in place during assembly. Good luck.
__________________
2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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11-22-2018, 10:27 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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I replaced with direct pull threaded rod pulls. Minor reroute of lines and cable pull locations. Lowe’s/Home Depot have heavy rubber sleeves that attach like a auto radiator hose. Those should simplify things for you.
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Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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11-23-2018, 10:03 AM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arlington
Posts: 2
M.O.C. #14185
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Yes, I looked at the Valterra valves when I first started looking. Decided to go with the Drainmaster because of the way they are constructed. They have metal gears that should last for the life of the fiver. They are designed from the ground up as electric valves. The valterra valves are the same plastic junk that I've had issues with, with an electric motor added. Mounted sideways, it is inevitable that sooner or later, gunk is going to get into the area where the motor and gears are. Discovered I had a leak in the grey valve on the drain side. We're going to replace the seals on the existing valves, leave them open, and install the electric valves downstream where there is plenty of headroom. Just ordered the parts. Hope to have the job done next week
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11-23-2018, 09:29 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 1,567
M.O.C. #20475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandrewson
My '15 3611RL is in need of waste valve service for the second time. Not sure if the issue is the cables binding, or the valves sticking, but I'm tired of going through this every 2 years or less. Rather than replace the valves this often, we've decided to go to drainmaster electric valves. My issue is in the placement of the existing valves. The electric valves will not simply slide into the flange. They have to be mounted upright, and there's a metal brace directly above them. The flange is cemented directly into the waste tank so it's not an option to remove the flange and extend it about 2". I could leave the existing valves in place and just leave them open, installing the new valves in the pipe, away from the tank. Will those old valves eventually leak? Would it be an option to replace the seals, remove the valve body, and bolt the 2 flange pieces directly together. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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The Drainmaster valve don't have to be mounted upright they can be mounted off to ether side at an angle they have a siren angle you can't go past for them to work properly
__________________
Bob & Carol Washington St
2017 HC HM352RL 2018 Dodge 3500 laramie CC LB 4x4
Curt Q25 with puck system, Factory air bags
Happy Trails
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11-28-2018, 01:46 PM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Helena
Posts: 7
M.O.C. #13941
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Check out Love Your RV on YouTube. Ray installed the same valves on his Cougar. Search for: Electric RV Dump Valves - Part 1 (Install Plans and Demo). Part 2 is the actual installation.
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