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Old 06-16-2007, 01:59 PM   #1
Dont
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living room ac

I was just wanding does it hurt to close off the duck in the living room and just keep the small one open. I have a 3400RL and get a big flow out of the main vent but just a small amount out of the small vent through out the trailer
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Old 06-16-2007, 02:19 PM   #2
simonsrf
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Hey Don and Lola,

Nice to hear from you. Haven't heard from you in a while, actually not since Quartzsite.

We've been in some real hot weather lately. I had the same question, but found that after I got most of the coach cool with the big noise in the living room, I then was able to equalize the temperature thorough out by flipping the vent. If you look on the ceiling you will see that the same amount of air is pushed through the vents that go along the ceiling and into the bedroom.

After a while, with the big vent closed the trailer will stay cool. We had some +100 temperatures and we made it on one air conditioner.

Nice to hear from you...Quartzsite next spring?
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:02 AM   #3
dieselguy
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If you're refering to the sliding door next to the intake filter on the ceiling unit, I think Keystone calls that a "Quick Cool" feature. It diverts most of the cooling air from the ceiling air ducts to cool the living area as needed. I keep mine closed unless I just got to a campsite and it's pretty toasty in the living room ... otherwise, you'll have reduced cooling airflow through out the rest of the camper. It's also a heck of a lot quieter.
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:24 AM   #4
jrgwdenner
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Don, we close the living room vent frequently, especially when we have grandchildren sleeping on the LR floor. It just gets too cool for them if we don't divert some of the cool air. We also close it at night so the air cools the bedroom for sleeping.

We're scheduled for central Iowa around July 7th for a few days. Hope to look you up. Hope you're doing well.
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:21 AM   #5
bsmeaton
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Yep, that's the quick cool feature.

We typically open it when running both ACs and have it closed when just running the rear AC.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:36 AM   #6
Steve and Brenda
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Brad, we do the opposite. When cooling right after parking the RV we use that quick cool but keep it closed when both ACs are running, We do find it quite comfortable in the Texas heat running both units during the day and the main unit at night with a small fan in the bedroom running. Our bedroom unit is quite noisy, even in slow speed, for comfortable sleeping.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:40 AM   #7
Montana Sky
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I always keep my quick cool open, as the living room a/c tends to freeze up and trips the breaker if I close it. I also have to run mine in the "on" and "high" position as the "auto" and "low" positions seem to accelerate the freezing up problem. My solution was to install the 2nd a/c in the bedroom. That keeps the front half of the coach cool and the main a/c does a nice job keeping the back half cool. Last year, the 4th of July holiday weekend had temps exceeding 105 degrees, but the inside of my coach was a brisk 68 degrees with both a/c's running.
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Old 06-17-2007, 01:48 PM   #8
bsmeaton
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Steve - I'll have to try that next time out. Have my chance at Lake Powell next month!

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Old 06-17-2007, 02:31 PM   #9
Steve and Brenda
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Have not been in a hot area using just the single 15k BTU main unit. We're going to really test the system in a couple of weeks in South Texas at a park with only 30 amps at the pedestal. With some clever power management our hope is to run both ACs. Will have to shut down the secondary unit when the microwave is in operation. Plan to to run on on propane for water heater and fridge saving the amps for the second AC unit. Really wish I had the time to replace all the DC lamps with LED units to reduce the current draw on the DC converter.
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:34 PM   #10
sreigle
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Hmmm, I wonder why Dave's is freezing up. The only time we open the Quick Cool on ours is when we first set up and need to cool it down in the living area as quickly as possible. Soon as its tolerable we close it so the rest of the coach gets some cool.

Dave, you're not running the fan on low, are you?
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:51 PM   #11
richfaa
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We run the fan on low most of the time and like Steve only use the quick cool feature for a quick cool down. We have never had a freeze up. We do keep the fantastic fan on manual low for ventilation.We have not had to use both A/C's in over 100 degree temps and hope we never will but in temps in the 90's both A/C's on is way to cool for us. Now we normally set the main A/C for around 75 degrees and that is good for us.If we would also turn on the bedroom A/C..fan low it would freeze us out. We give the A/C system high marks.
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Old 06-17-2007, 09:45 PM   #12
Montana Sky
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Steve,
I am not sure what is the problem with my living room a/c. I always run the thing on "high" and in the "on" position, and I still have to leave the dump gate open. If I close it, the unit will shut down within 20 minutes or so. My dealership has worked on the thing for the past three years, and nothing they do seems to help. I have had the return air box resealed, a new breaker installed, bought a volt meter as the mechanic thought maybe the park electric was bad- not the case as the volt meter is always in the green, they serviced the compressor, checked the coolant, and a few other things. I have tried to get a new a/c out of the shop while it was under the Dometic warranty, but never was successful. I have no faith in the living room a/c and since I have a small dog, I bought the 2nd a/c unit for the bedroom.

The strangest part is, if I leave the settings as I previously mentioned, and also leave the dump gate open, the unit will run strong all day. It only starts acting up when I close the dump gate, or run it on "low" or "auto". Go figure.... lol!
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:14 AM   #13
Ozz
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Montana Sky.
My money is on too much static air pressure; the small ductwork has too much restriction for the outlet airflow. This causes the air to slow from the unit, the temperatures drop on the face of the evaporator coil, causing a freeze up. All of the Montana's are marginal, some freeze and some do not, from what I read. The fact that it works fine when the dump damper is open and you run it on high, reinforces my opinion. If you could 'cut in' two or maybe three more outlets, it should work better, using the ducting. I would bet that your T.D. is high, probably around 30 degrees or better with the dump damper closed. That is too high, it shows insufficient airflow. You want around 20 to 25 max. degrees. (T.D.= temperature difference between the outlet air from the evaporator coil and return air, or space temperature.)
It's all airflow.
Good luck.
Ozz
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:31 AM   #14
Dont
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Hey thanks guys for info we try it yesterday and last night work fine with the main vent closed. Glen & Judy if you get around lake red rock hear in Knoxville, Iowa come and see use we are Howell Station.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:25 AM   #15
jrgwdenner
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Don, we have a visit with you and Lola on our agenda. Thanks for the details so we can find you.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:37 PM   #16
Montana Sky
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Ozz,
Thanks for the tip! I am probably the last person that should "cut in" a few more vents. I think I would be better off waiting for our paths to cross and see what you think... lol!

For now, I will just leave the damper gate open and run it on high. I guess I cannot complain too much as the two a/c's working at the same time will keep the inside in the high 60's, even when the temps outside exceed 100 degrees. =)
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Old 06-19-2007, 04:32 AM   #17
Dustytuu
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When we were having so much trouble with our main AC they suggested more vents. That would not have worked for ours.
Ours was freezing up everytime we turned it on too. Didn't matter what we did.
Had a Durtherm man come and try several things on ours. We took it to his shop too and he tried some other things. He finally told Durtherm to replace it and you wouldn't believe the difference! Lots of air comes out of every vent. This thing is a cooling machine! Have not had any problems with this one freezing up either.
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