Slide out circuit breaker problem

[rldriver]

Looking for any help on how to stop my slide out problem. When moving the slides either in or out the circuit breaker will trip one to three times until they get completely in or out. The circuit breaker will reset in just 3 or 4 seconds. I have greased them with the special lube for sliders, they do not squeak or chatter when moving. Has any one else had this problem?
Thanks in advance for any help.

PS. We are sitting at the Marina and RV park in Boardman OR. and let me tell you I think this “the” best park we have ever visited. Lots of trees and grass, huge sites, full hook-up, on the Columbia river. I could go on and on and its only $22.80 per night.

[CountryGuy]

Dick, this is a known problem/situation. The answer is a larger fuse or something. DO A SEARCH and open the time frame to 6 months or more. Or, find MIMF's name and phone number in some even more recent posts and give him a call tomorrow. He can walk ya thru the situation and fix in no time!

Al is not sitting here right now, or he would know exactly what the thing is, a fuse or some other electrical thing. In line fuse????? Anyway, the fix is not that hard if you know where to look and what to do. That is a non-electrican speaking (HAHAHA)

Someone else will happen along soon and tell you the correct name/description and where to find it.

The campground sounds wonderful, and we cannot tell that you are having a great time! HA HA. WAY TO GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Carol

[Wordsmith]

Dick, I had the same problem as did others on the forum. Primarily, the dining room slide was the culprit for us, consistently tripping the breaker, up to three times. Someone else posted and MIMF2—Dale—responded which helped us. Do a search and you can read his instructions, but the short of it is that the breaker that was installed was not large enough. According to Dale, Keystone sometimes does not have one large enough when a unit comes through and puts in a smaller one, in my case a 30 amp, which prompts the tripping. He suggested a 75 amp manual resetting switch, which we did, and have not experienced any problems since.

[awaywego]

rldriver,
This is a post on the same problem. Hope it helps. This is the one Carol was refering to I think.

Looking at the pump, you will notice that strapped to the top of the 12 volt motor that turns the pump, there is a black box that has three large threaded terminals sticking straight up. The center one is the positive power supply from the battery. Trace that lead, which is supposed to be 6 guage wire back toward the battery. Before you get to the battery, you should find a circuit breaker. It will have a red rubber cover over the top of it if it has been properly installed. Open the cover. You may need to use a flashlight to look at the cicuit breaker but, what you are trying to find is the markings on the breaker. It should be 50 amp auto re-setting breaker. If it is, at this point use a small open-end wrench and test all terminal connections to be sure they are snug. BE CAREFUL! Don't touch 2 terminals at the same time. You could cause a short which could damage some equipement, not to mention a very uncomfortable feeling within your person causing you to perhaps loose control of one or both of the 2 "B's"! Infact, unplug the "shore power" and disconnect the the positive lead on the battery BEFORE you start to do any of this.

Make sure also, that all of the nuts an all of the terminals are snug. Loose wire connections can and will cause higher amperage draws.

If everything is snug and the breaker is a 50 amp auto reset, then an amperage draw test maybe in order. The 12 volt motor that drives the pump is rated to pull as much as 100 amps. Hopefully, with 2 rooms on your coach, it doesn't need to use that much amperage to operate those rooms in and out. However, when doing the amperage draw test, don't get excited if you determine that the motor is drawing 60 or even 70 amps. Especially when the main slide room is coming in. That is when the pump has to work the hardest because, it is pulling that room in up hill.

If the actual amperage draw is, say 70 amps, simply wire in a second 20 amp auto reset breaker in parellel with the 50 amp breaker. Keep in mind that at this point, it may be necessary to replace the 50 amp breaker bcause, if it has been popping, it may be weak and not able to withstand a 50 amp draw.

Other things to check would be the fluid level in the reservoir. With the rooms in, the level should be approximately 1/2 inch from the top of the tank or the bottom lip of the fill/breather cap. If you need to add to the level, you can simply use automatic transmission fluid (ATF), either DexronIII or Mercon, by pouring it into the tank. If the fluid in the tank is a different color than the ATF because, ATF is red, that is OK. Besides, ATF will help the pump operate equally well by allowing the pump to work easier causing the motor to draw less amperage.

I truely hope this answers your question. If not, call me anytime over the weekend on my cell phone (Lippert's) at 574-230-4974 and I will be happy to help and to discuss this in further detail with you. If it is during normal business hours, you can call me at my desk at 574-537-8900 ext 4542.

[rldriver]

Thanks every one for the advice. Looks like I will need to upgrade the circuit breakers. Its a 50A so I will see what the local store has in stock and either go to a 70A or add smaller breaker in line with the 50A. And also put in a new 50A breaker.

Thanks again for all the help.

Dick & Jackie Driver