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Old 12-27-2014, 01:05 PM   #21
DmaxDually
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bigskyjimmy

I choose the 310 because it is a slim design and it fit great in my bathroom and gave me more room in there than the Thetford,only thing we do not like is the plastic seat but I guess you can buy a wooden one for them, also we like the swirl flush pattern better than the straight Thetford pattern
I like the swirl flush pattern on the 310 also. It seems to have better water coverage in the bowl and would do a better job of cleaning the bowl.
 
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:07 PM   #22
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Got a 320 on order, did not know the flush pattern was different. O'well it is all down hill from here.........

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Old 12-28-2014, 08:35 AM   #23
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by jlb27537

Got a 320 on order, did not know the flush pattern was different. O'well it is all down hill from hill.........

Jim
Here's a video link to the features the 310 and 320. The first link is for the 310 and the second link is for the 320. You can see the 2 different flush paterns in the video's.
I have a question for anyone who owns the 310. The video mentions that the 310 has an adjustable water height. Does that mean it adds water to the bowl automatically after each flush and you don't have to do it manually by pressing the pedel slightly down?

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...064109D3146A3E

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...90FC6EF3800F1D
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #24
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[quote]quote:Originally posted by bigskyjimmy

That's what happened to my 2nd Thetford right before it Flooded my RV.. SAVE YOURSELF MAN get a DOMETIC 310 or 320,awile ago I posted pics of the damage to the back of the cheap plastic pedal from the spring, you cannot fix a Bad design,Chuck it!
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Originally posted by DmaxDually

I have a question..Is the foot pedal suppose to be spring loaded to return to the off position after you flush it or do you have to lift the pedal up with your foot? I have to lift mine up with my foot after I flush.
I just ordered the Dometic 320 (standard height) today. I should have it in a couple of days. I was undecided a couple of weeks ago on which one to get the 310 or 320. But after comparing them side by side at the Tampa RV show (which I'm glad I did because I was leaning towards the 310 before). space wasn't an issue so I chose the 320 because I liked the larger elongated bowl & the wooden seat. The flush pedal and ball valve operation on both models (310 & 320) have a nice smooth and sturdy feel when you press on them. The return spring action is strong with a positive closure of the water and ball valve when you let up.
My only question to the ones who already replaced theirs is will I have to replace the floor flange or will the Dometic bolt up to the Thetford flange ? Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2015, 07:25 PM   #25
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Nope you do not have to change the floor flange although the Dometic gasket did not fit my flange and I used my Thetford gasket but other than that easy switch you might have to change the water supply line on yours ,I had to put a flexable line on mine because the inlet on the Dometic is lower and the original Pex line to the Thetford fit kind of Crooked and leaked so I just put a flex line on it and all good

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by bigskyjimmy

That's what happened to my 2nd Thetford right before it Flooded my RV.. SAVE YOURSELF MAN get a DOMETIC 310 or 320,awile ago I posted pics of the damage to the back of the cheap plastic pedal from the spring, you cannot fix a Bad design,Chuck it!
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

I have a question..Is the foot pedal suppose to be spring loaded to return to the off position after you flush it or do you have to lift the pedal up with your foot? I have to lift mine up with my foot after I flush.
I just ordered the Dometic 320 (standard height) today. I should have it in a couple of days. I was undecided a couple of weeks ago on which one to get the 310 or 320. But after comparing them side by side at the Tampa RV show (which I'm glad I did because I was leaning towards the 310 before). space wasn't an issue so I chose the 320 because I liked the larger elongated bowl & the wooden seat. The flush pedal and ball valve operation on both models (310 & 320) have a nice smooth and sturdy feel when you press on them. The return spring action is strong with a positive closure of the water and ball valve when you let up.
My only question to the ones who already replaced theirs is will I have to replace the floor flange or will the Dometic bolt up to the Thetford flange ? Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2015, 02:41 AM   #26
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Another simple trick might be to drizzle about a teaspoon of vegetable oil frequently in there. It works fine on the toilet in my boat. On the boat it has a similar design only it uses a pump with seals. Agree on the Dometic though.
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Old 01-22-2015, 03:30 AM   #27
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dometic 320. don't waste your time with the system you now have. buy on line.
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Old 01-22-2015, 04:18 AM   #28
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[quote]Originally posted by bigskyjimmy

Nope you do not have to change the floor flange although the Dometic gasket did not fit my flange and I used my Thetford gasket but other than that easy switch you might have to change the water supply line on yours ,I had to put a flexable line on mine because the inlet on the Dometic is lower and the original Pex line to the Thetford fit kind of Crooked and leaked so I just put a flex line on it and all good

Good to hear I don't have to replace the flange.The supply line is not a problem. I made up a Pex kit (assorted fittings,tubing,clamps & tooling)that I always carry on board for emergencys just in case. Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2015, 03:21 PM   #29
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Well after the first time the foot pedal fell off and almost flooded the Rv, DH got the pedal back on. After it fell off the third time, I checked the forum and found out many others have had this problem. Went to Camping World and checked out the 310 and 320 Dometic. Liked the 320 although it was much more expensive. It took my DH about 10 minutes to take old commode out and about another 10 minutes to install the new one. Everything fit perfectly in our 2013 358 RLT Mountaineer. Sorry design in the Thetford. Less than 3 years of use and already had to replace toilet. Ridiculous! Thanks to all on the forum for the great recommendations.
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Old 01-23-2015, 05:21 PM   #30
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bigskyjimmy,
Where did you get your water supply line? I noticed the water valve on the Dometic is threaded. Did you buy a Dometic line or is it just a standard line from Home Depot or lowes?
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:30 PM   #31
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just this but you also have to buy a 1/2 in brass male adapter to hook up the stock female Pex fitting coming out of the floor and the end of the new female extension that you put on the toilet(do not forget the Teflon tape)LIKE THIS:http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraf...1?N=5yc1vZbqki
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

bigskyjimmy,
Where did you get your water supply line? I noticed the water valve on the Dometic is threaded. Did you buy a Dometic line or is it just a standard line from Home Depot or lowes?
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Old 01-24-2015, 02:38 AM   #32
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Ok Thanks. I'll pick up a hose and I'm also going to put a shutoff valve inline so I don't have to shut off the water to the whole camper for future Maintenance or just in case. I have barb/threaded end Pex adapters for the Pex line from the floor. No matter how much I try to think of every thing before I start a project I always have to stop what I'm doing and go to the store because I forgot or need something I didn't fore see.... Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:05 AM   #33
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Yep your welcome ,that is what I like about this Forum everybody has been there and done that with repairs etc..I have been helped many times here AND I hear ya about going back and forth to the hardware store because I forget something but what the heck my wife does not mind it gets me out of her Hair for awile
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

Ok Thanks. I'll pick up a hose and I'm also going to put a shutoff valve inline so I don't have to shut off the water to the whole camper for future Maintenance or just in case. I have barb/threaded end Pex adapters for the Pex line from the floor. No matter how much I try to think of every thing before I start a project I always have to stop what I'm doing and go to the store because I forgot or need something I didn't fore see.... Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:48 PM   #34
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Installed the 320 yesterday.I didn't need to use a flex line because of where my water line came thru the floor. I connect a 90 Deg female 1/2" threaded Pex fitting to the flush valve. I also installed a shutoff valve in line. The 320 just fit. The right aft corner of the bowl is just touching the wall. On the 3750FL the bowl is installed in a corner and the floor flange was installed a little off to to the right side, not in the center of the corner (if that makes any sense). The Thetford was smaller so it didn't matter. I am glad that I chose the 320 over the 310. The deep residential size oval bowl and 18 inch seat height is great. IMHO if you have the room the 320 is the way to go.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:18 PM   #35
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Cool ,easy Peezee Yeah depends on the floor plan you have as to whether you need a flex line or not on my 2012 3402RL I did and My new 2015 3735MK I did ,Ya Lucked out My Man
Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

Installed the 320 yesterday.I didn't need to use a flex line because of where my water line came thru the floor. I connect a 90 Deg female 1/2" threaded Pex fitting to the flush valve. I also installed a shutoff valve in line. The 320 just fit. The right aft corner of the bowl is just touching the wall. On the 3750FL the bowl is installed in a corner and the floor flange was installed a little off to to the right side, not in the center of the corner (if that makes any sense). The Thetford was smaller so it didn't matter. I am glad that I chose the 320 over the 310. The deep residential size oval bowl and 18 inch seat height is great. IMHO if you have the room the 320 is the way to go.
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:34 AM   #36
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

No matter how much I try to think of every thing before I start a project I always have to stop what I'm doing and go to the store because I forgot or need something I didn't fore see.... Thanks for the help.
You might want to try this method next project. When I need something from Lowes, Home Depot, etc I drive to the store, circle the parking lot, and then return home and have another cup of coffee. Then I go back to the store and do my shopping. By doing this, I have already made both trips to the store and don't have to go again later.
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:21 AM   #37
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I decided from now on I'm just going hook up the RV and do all my projects in Lowes or Home Depot parking lots . But then again with my luck I would need something from C/W
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Old 01-25-2015, 02:26 PM   #38
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

I decided from now on I'm just going hook up the RV and do all my projects in Lowes or Home Depot parking lots . But then again with my luck I would need something from C/W
Or all the tools you left at home !!
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Old 01-26-2015, 03:11 AM   #39
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DAR

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by DmaxDually

I decided from now on I'm just going hook up the RV and do all my projects in Lowes or Home Depot parking lots . But then again with my luck I would need something from C/W
Or all the tools you left at home !!
I just keep a can of WD-40 and a roll of duct tape on board. If it's supposed to move and it dosen't I use the WD-40. If it moves and it's not supposed to I use the duct tape .
I keep a very well equipped tool box/kit on board (that seems to keep growing)for that reason. To handle almost any normal repair or upgrade on the road or camp site.If something big breaks that I don't have the tools to fix that means it's time to upgrade. .
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:09 AM   #40
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Eagleback,
Thank you for your reply and post. Your suggestion worked perfectly.
I followed your directions and problem solved! I agree that plumbers silicone grease is the correct lubricant. Be aware that there are 2 kinds of plumbers grease. Be sure to get the one that contains mostly silicone.
I bought some at a True Value and now keep it in my RV tool kit.

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Eagleback

Do not use Vaseline. Use plumbers silicone grease instead you can buy it at Home Depot or Lowes for a few dollars. I had the same leak and the ball valve would not close very well and you had to pull up on the handle. shut off the water then drain and dry the gasket then apply the grease then work the valve. you might have to do a second application. If that still doesn't work pour hot water in the bowl then let it sit and the gasket will form to the ball valve then apply more grease. I did this and now my toilet works great now.
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