Winterizing

[MAMalody]

I'm curious. When winterizing the 5er, is it possible that you would have adequate protection if you drained all the water, left the low point drains open, ran the pumpt to empty of water and put a cup of anti-freeze down each drain that that would be adequate? In other words, you are NOT filing the lines with anti-freeze. In my area it may get below freezing, however, we have very few days it does not get above freezing during the day and only three or four days does it get in the teens or below. Having said that, in 02 it got to 19 below for a day and stayed below the teens for about ten days. Just trying to save work and money if I don't really need to fill the lines with anti-freeze. Thanks for the help.

Mike

F350 7.3L LB SRW
2003 3575RL

[JH Sechelt]

Hi Mike,

I took the paneling off in the basement (to fix a broken water line), last December only 3 weeks after we bought our 2980RL. They have water lines all over the place (in where the water heater & pump hide). Some go up, some go down, some cross over other water lines..... on & on it goes. I won't be too sure that the low point drains would get all the water out of the lines. We are on the west coast and usually doesn't get down to 20 degrees F but I put anti-freeze in ours . It is a bit a of pain because 3 weeks after I do, we will go camping. Not a real big deal, only takes 10 minutes to do it. I made doors to get into the pump & water heater.
I guess you can blow the water lines out with air. A little bit of water would be Ok, The pex pipe will expand a little before it cracks.

One line you can't get anti-freeze in to is the line from the back of our trailer (the city line). That was the one I had to replace. It has a check valve right where you hook up the hose, so because of that, no air comes out, no anti-freeze gets in. I blow that one out with air. I also installed a ball valve where it joins the rest of the water lines ( by the water heater). Now I can turn that line off for winter camping. When that line comes into the trailer in drops down about 6" to the frame and comes up about a foot by the water heater so it can join into the rest of the water system. I don't think that any water in that line would drain out through the low point valves. You really want to blow that one out with air.
Hope this helps or at least makes sense.

J&D




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[IMG]John & Dawn

Sunshine Coast, British Columbia
2006 2980RL &
2005 F350 Lariet, Crewcab
Shortbox Powerstroke 4X4

[harleyrider]

To many water lines to do it your way.To be on the safe side just pump the pink stuff threw-open every faucet untill you see the pink stuff.That way you know ALL the lines will be protected.As far as that check valve that J&D was talking about.What i do is first turn on a faucet inside to relieve pressure and then I pop our that little screen on the city water connection.And gently push in the button-the pink stuff will flow out of their.

Or you could do as many on here and head south.A tad more expensive to go that route-but ooo so much nicer I bet.

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2001(bought new in March of 2004) montana 3280RL triple slide
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[Wrenchtraveller]

JH Sechelt and Harley Rider are right on the money.

Don & Donna
Vancouver Island
2005 Ford F350 V10 Lariat CC 4x4 LB SRW 11200 GVWR
2006 Montana 2955RL
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[CountryGuy]

You won't save money or time if you have a lot of damage due to frozen lines? For a few dollars and less than 30 minutes of your time, why take a chance??

Add the pink!

[ken]

In addition to what everyone has said, If you have a washer/dryer, you have to run some antifreeze thru that too. Put the washer on warm so both cold and hot water lines come into the washer with the pink stuff. Then drain it out therby putting antifreeze in your washer pump. As everyone has said, Antifreeze is cheap insurance to broken pipes..Also I add a cup of antifreeze to all of my sink and shower drains so they won't crack.

Ken and Velda
Mindy (Our spoiled cocker spaniel)
Dahlgren Va
2005 3475 Montana w/automatic satellite dome/dish
2005 2500HD GMC 4x4 Crewcab with Duramax/Allison and edge/attitude, 45 gal transfer flo tank, Air Lift air springs, and Doran tire pressure alert system.

[Searchers]

My winterizing procedure is to open all 3 low point drains and leave them open during storage, remove the anode rod from the hot water tank and leave it out during storage. Cracking open all the faucets including the outside shower will help the lines to drain quicker. Once drained close the faucets. Most RV supply stores and some hardware stores carry an item I'll describe as a tire valve stem type adapter that will screw into the city water fill on the RV. Fire up the compressor and blow the lines out with 30-40 lbs. of pressure. Crack all the faucets open again and leave them open during storage. I pour a Gallon of RV antifreeze down the toilet into an empty black tank and let enough remain in the stool to cover the closed flush valve. I share another gallon of antifreeze between the sink, vanity and shower drains. Nothing in the fresh water tank.

I've used this method on the last two RV's without any system failures in temperatures well below freezing.

Don & Claudia
MOC 1685
1999 2850RK
1995 F250 Ext.Cab 4x4 7.3 PSD

[Glenn and Lorraine]

quote:Originally posted by harleyrider


Or you could do as many on here and head south.A tad more expensive to go that route-but ooo so much nicer I bet.

That has worked for me for 3 winters and ya know I've never had a frozen line and yes it is so much nicer.


Glenn
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Glenn and Lorraine
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[Illini Trekker]

I like Don's method, but it doe's require a good size air tank to get the value of air I like to push throw the lines. Plus I'll still pump a little through the pump for insurance. Doing it this way I can use the camper all year round!


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[MAMalody]

Thanks for the input. My practice has been in late Nov to open the three low point drains, drain the hot water tank, set my bypass, fill the lines with anti-freeze, put some in all the sink, shower drains and the commode. In Feb I pick up a new anode rod and head out in the first week of Mar. I live in WA and since we have intermittent snow here I am reluctant to blow out the lines because I would be tempted to head out and I just don't want to mess with the snow. I lived in MT so I can handle the snow, just don't want to mess with it...just too easy to make a mistake and there are a bunch of slugs out there driving four wheelers.

My last trip out, I am getting ready to make a right turn, signal on and some idiot comes up on my right in the bike lane in his little car...boy was I tempted to make a tight turn...but I didn't. You all would have been proud of me.

Mike

F350 7.3L LB SRW
2003 3575RL

[Mudchief]

I do the same as Don and have never had a problem. If you do this method don't forget to lift up on the toilet pedel so the water will be blown out of the valve.

Dennis & Linda
05 GMC 2500HD Duramax CC
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05 Mountaineer 329RLS
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[borfaloo]

Hey Mike,

I seem to recall that you are somewhere in tri cities. If that is correct you should come on over to Horn Rapid's rv park (I also recall you know someone out here). Early next month they are having someone over from Broadmoor RV to talk about this very subject. I will pm you when the date is firmed up and we can both ask the question.


Sean

[MAMalody]

Sounds good to me. Keep me posted and I will be there. Thanks for the heads up.



Mike

F350 7.3L LB SRW
2003 3575RL

[sreigle]

Mike, don't forget the outside shower, if you have that. And the connection for city water, remove the screen and push the little white button to release trapped water. If that freezes it'll push the o-ring out of place and that's a bear to work back into place (been there). And that's if you're lucky and it does no other damage.

[MAMalody]

quote:Originally posted by sreigle

Mike, don't forget the outside shower, if you have that. And the connection for city water, remove the screen and push the little white button to release trapped water. If that freezes it'll push the o-ring out of place and that's a bear to work back into place (been there). And that's if you're lucky and it does no other damage.

That's the first I heard of that one. Thanks for the heads up.