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04-10-2011, 07:42 PM
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#1
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sidney
Posts: 91
M.O.C. #9399
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Slide Pump Starting & Stopping
We have a 2007 Montana 2955RL. When bringing in the slides, the main slide will
stop momentarily, then restart and finish coming in. I have stood outside and listened and the hydraulic pump and motor actually stops.
I have read about the breaker for the pump tripping and resetting. Some have apparently
replaced this breaker or put a second one in parallel with the first.
Could someone explain where this breaker is located, or send a picture of what it
looks like.
I have no hydraulic leaks, the fluid level never changes, and nothing that would create
a resistance to the big slide coming in.
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04-10-2011, 09:38 PM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Benson
Posts: 3,121
M.O.C. #1658
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04-11-2011, 04:45 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,133
M.O.C. #6433
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I have an '07 3075RL so yours may be similar to mine. Mine is located in the front compartment just below the slide pump.
The two red things. The one on the left is for the slides.
I replaced my 50 amp with another 50 amp and it solved the problem for a year and half. Then started again. Now have two 40 amp breakers in parallel. They are cheap, just a few dollars each at an RV or auto parts store.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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04-11-2011, 05:19 AM
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#4
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sidney
Posts: 91
M.O.C. #9399
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Thanks for the photo and the info. The layout in our rig is exactly the same.
After reading all the info on this subject in the forum, I think I am going to go
for the 80 amp circuit breaker.
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04-11-2011, 06:04 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
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Bill,
Is the picture the before modification or after?
Mike
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04-11-2011, 07:54 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: McKinney
Posts: 7,133
M.O.C. #6433
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Before. I thought I had an after but can't find it.
__________________
Bill & Patricia
Riley, our Golden
2007 3075RL (recently sold, currently without)
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04-13-2011, 03:37 PM
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#7
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sidney
Posts: 91
M.O.C. #9399
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I went out shopping on Monday, looking for an 80 amp reset short stop breaker to resolve
our slide problems. I tried 3 RV dealers and 2 Auto Supply stores here where we live in Canada. All the dealers thought I was nuts, said they had never heard of an 80 amp breaker. Couldn't even special order one. I did the next best thing, I bought a new 50 amp breaker
put it in and cycled both slides in and out 3 or 4 times and it worked just fine.
It as cold as a well drillers knee here and it worked perfectly. I think once a breaker or a reset trips a few times it "weakens" it and they never seem to function properly afterwards.
We are home now from down south and we won't be using the rig now until mid May, but I am hoping the new breaker will work just fine.
Many thanks to those readers for their input and photos. It is at times like this that the
MOC is such a valuable source of info for all Monty owners.
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04-14-2011, 04:01 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Arnold
Posts: 1,200
M.O.C. #2586
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klash,
I did like you, several years ago, and haven't had a problem since. I did buy a spare just in case!
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04-22-2011, 07:08 AM
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#10
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New Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Asheville
Posts: 1
M.O.C. #11297
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Just resolved a similar problem with our 2010 Montana Mountaineer 285RLD. Slides worked fine for several months, then would stop part way in or out. The unit is still in warranty and I discussed with Keystone and with several dealers. It appears this problem is known. Some of the suggestions for the cause were, "slides not properly adjusted", "breaker may be weak", "cold weather" etc. We measured the amp draw and found it to be a max of 75 Amps, the factory breaker is rated at 50 Amps. I checked the hyd pump and pump solenoid switch to see if I could find a nameplate with the Amp Rating. There were no nameplates readily visible, so I used a mirror and flashlight to look at the other side of the motor and solenoid. I found a nameplate on the solenoid which gave a Amp rating of 80 Amps for 3 minutes. On my unit it normally takes about one minute to bring in both slides. I had more discussions with Keystone. and they suggested an 80 AMP breaker and said they would send me one.
While waiting for the Keystone part, I ordered a 80 Amp auto-reset breaker Part No. 46933 from Waytek ($21.25 + $5.00 shipping) just to "be sure". Keystone actually sent the part quickly and it arrived a day before the one I ordered. Both are identical.
I found Keystone to be responsive and helpful.
Just completed the installation and now all seems to be OK. Will know better by the end of the summer.
I don't know about your particular case, but suggest you find out the rating of the hydraulic pump motor, check your max line amps when moving the slide. If the pump/solenoid ratings are higher than your current breaker limits and your current draw is less than the max rating then replace the auto-breaker. Just be sure you don't oversize the breaker. Your dealer or any automotive electrical shop should have the equipment to measure DC amps.
In my RV there are two breakers with a jumper between the "hot" side of the breakers. Both breakers are independent but tie into the battery supply line (Positive + ). To find the auto-beaker for the hyd pump just trace the wire from the switched side of the breaker. If the line goes to the hydraulic pump solenoid then that is the breaker for the slide hyd pump. The other breaker serves another function, I did not trace it to see where it goes.
Edgemont
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04-22-2011, 09:09 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 5,816
M.O.C. #9257
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Other possibilities for these slide out problems are reservoir isn't full (check when ALL slides are retracted, requires any Type A trans fluid or similar Dextron/Mercon), battery is weak (connect to shore power or your TV for more converter or battery power), or there's too much movement (rear stabilizers should be in place and firm).
The single 80 amp breaker means you don't have to build the jumper shunts. Just swap out the existing slideout breaker matching the posts and you're done! I couldn't find an 80 amp locally so I went with the dual 40s.
After doing all these, I have had no more problems!
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