Decal removal and installation - Montana Owners Club

c214dick · 06-29-2012, 02:32 PM

I thought I would start a new topic rather than trying to explain in all the other "decal" posts.

I started the decal replacement project today with the new graphics from Keystone. Their instructions for removal are very specific and easy for the most part. One thing I will add is that I will only remove and install one piece at a time so as not to confuse myself too much. I used a heat gun and a plastic scraper. Once the decal has softened up it's fairly easy to remove. After removal, as per Keystone's instructions, I removed the excess adhesive with laquer thinner and followed up with Isopropyl alcohol before installing the new graphic.

Keystone advises to remove the backing from the graphic, the white paper, and position the new graphic. They suggest that the graphic can be removed and repositioned before squeeging, but not so fast amigo. Don't be so concerned with the actual position of the graphic as the more you remove and position the greater the chances of air bubbles and creases. If positioned close to the original position the other graphics can be placed accordingly and all will be good. After the graphic is in position squeegee away vertically being slow and careful. After 15 minutes, the top protctive mask can be removed. If you find any creases or bubbles you should use a pin to stick the area needing repair and use your finger tip, not nail to smooth it out.

When I squeegeed I noticed a number of creases as a result of too much repositioning, I did not see any bubbles. When I removed the protective pre-mask I found enough bubbles at the end to make me scream. I was able to make the creases not so evident but the bubbles look like a bad case of I don't know what. From a distance they are not visible, up close is a different story. The next piece is shorter and the piece next to it is much larger. But that's best saved for tomorrow's posting.

Jolu · 06-29-2012, 03:02 PM

Dick,
You didn't mention if you used a soapy water mix before you placed the decal in position. The solution helps to move the decal around some.
I have installed decals without a soapy water solution and they are harder to lift and move around.
Some of those bubbles will go away with a little time. Seems after they set a couple of days they relax. You can use a pin to help let the air out from under the decal as you mention. One of those yellow plastic squeegees they sell at Home Depot helps to remove the air bubbles. These squeegees are a flat like card. Body shops use them for the same thing as well as spreading bondo.
Joe

dieselguy · 06-29-2012, 06:30 PM

Joe has a lot of good info ... get an old spray bottle and fill it up with water, then add just 2-3 drops of dish soap ... shake it up. Do as you've done with the removal and prep, but unless the graphic is small don't remove all the backing at once. Position it and use 2-3 strips of the blue painters tape over the top of it all just to help hold it in place against the side of your fiver. Pull about 1/2 half of the decal over the other half, spray the surface of your fiver. Then peel 1/2 the backing off snipping the loose backing with a pair of scissors. Starting in the middle, lay the decal down and squeege fron the center towards the top and bottom while working out to the end ... pull the other half back and repeat the process. This will make the install easier and minimize small air bubbles. As for the small air bubbles ... use a sharp pin and prick them, then work out the air or just wait a few days. The graphics are made of vinyl that "breathes" After a few days in the sun, many of the air bubbles will work themselves out. I've done several decal installations and there's nothing wrong with using the "wet method". With the larger graphics, you'll have to use the hinge method described above as there's just no way you can control that size of graphic installation otherwise.

c214dick · 06-29-2012, 07:09 PM

Thanks for the info dieselguy & Jolu. I did not use the "wet" method but will give it a try tomorrow. How much do I spray before applying the decal? The decals I will be applying tomorrow are an extension of the piece I put on today. I'm trying to apply the easier ones before tackling the larger ones. I'm not in a hurry to get it done as I have put up with the peeling for a couple of years. I would like to finish before we go out in 2 weeks but I have a lot of other fun things to do like replacing my deck boards and playing with my great granddaughter.

winter texan · 06-30-2012, 05:48 AM

Dick, the way I do this is much eaiser with 2 people. I used Grand Daughter's plastic swimming pool. Filled it with soapy water, removed decal backing and submerged decal in the solution in addition to spraying soapy water on the side of trailer. When in place you can squeege the excess solution and most bubbles out and then pull the paper off being careful not to pull decal loose.

Jolu · 06-30-2012, 07:37 AM

I only sprayed the cap and body surfaces and the decal with the soap water solution.
I can see where the pool idea might be really helpful if you keep it clean.
dieselguy gave a good description of the application process.

Joe

dieselguy · 06-30-2012, 10:38 AM

Just to assert this again whether you have a pool at your disposal or not .... DO NOT remove the entire backing from the larger graphics as in the mountain scenes or the large Montana decal up front or on the sides ... you'll likely be ordering more graphics. Even seasoned installers use the hinge method.

c214dick · 07-01-2012, 02:59 PM

Works for me dieselguy. I won't be working on the decals for a few days as our great granddaughter was here yesterday, started replacing deck boards today, take Monte in for new hydraulic connections and more deck work tomorrow. I missed my afternoon nap today but not tomorrow.

c214dick · 07-09-2012, 06:42 AM

Started on decals today after hydraulic hose was repaired. Thanks to all for suggestions, they were very helpful. The spray bottle with soapy water was a God send. Very smooth and very easy. I used the "hinge" method on the 4' piece I just put on and it was error free except for a couple of small bubbles. I also switced to a wall paper steamer and it seems to leave less adhesive to clean up than the dry method. I also switced from thinner to acetone for adhesive removal which seems to desolve the adhesive better.

The sun has shifted and is now reflecting off Monte's white so I will call it a day until evening when I will replace one more on the rear slide. I wonder if I hang a chicked if it will cook using refective heat????????

c214dick · 07-13-2012, 02:58 AM

I have been working a couple of hours daily, as the heat will allow, removing & replacing decals. I started out working on the smaller sections in order to fine tune my abilities. This morning I started on a larger piece that starts below the lower frig vent and continues across the bedroom slide. As the older piece was put on in insections, due to the slide, I thought I would follow the pattern and put the small piece on just below the vent.

After installing the piece and removing the top protective paper I noticed that the colors did not match the old piece. The new piece is a light gray compared to the older decal which is more brown. I'm not sure if the newer 3400 changed the color scheme or if I was sent a piece for another model. All of the other decals I have installed have been right on.

Is there anyone with a 3400 newer than 08 who can let me know what color their decal is?

D and M On The Road · 07-13-2012, 04:41 PM

We took all our decals off last year and finally replaced them a month or so ago with the replacement set we've had sitting in the garage for about 4 years. Some of the colors were a bit off from the originals and so were some of the decal shapes. We were stressing about that and then realized we were stressing about things that we don't need to stress about. All the new decals look great even if there are a few "ghosts" here and there.

A good friend stripped all their decals off and went to a couple of different dealers and bought decals that the dealers happened to have on hand. They were creative and their RV not only looks great, but it's a one of a kind with the decals he applied from Wildcat, Montana and Forest River.

c214dick · 07-13-2012, 04:57 PM

I don't mind customizing my look as long as there is a consistancy with the colors. Light gray does not look good next to dark brown.

brian ayerst · 07-13-2012, 06:46 PM

after you have removed montana decal from front how do you mark for replacing new one

c214dick · 07-13-2012, 11:51 PM

With the side replacemets I have only done one at a time and there is always a shadow of the previous decal's outline that helps with the placement of the new one. I assume there will be the same shadow in the front. I will mark the center, top and bottom, before applying the new one. As the whole front needs to be replaced, I'm saving that for last. Taking off the old will be a project itself as there is too much old adhesive that has collected dirt.

c214dick · 07-15-2012, 05:27 AM

I found the following site to be very helpful, including why decals peel.

www.rvsg.com/restripe-removal.asp

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