Just wondering....

[sambam]

A couple of things: I'm in the process of buying a '10 Montana and have been doing a hitch search. Coming from a TT, I don't have any experience with fifth wheel hitches. I've done some research and a recent TL magazine did a feature on them. Based on what I've read and heard, I've decided on the new R16 from Reese. The dealer has also agreed to upgrade the pin box to a Mor/Ride, free of charge (!). Even tho I've decided on this hitch from Reese, I also thought the Pull-rite Super 5th would be a decent choice. I know that a lot of folks don't care much for the Reese products, but they've been in the game as long as anyone and I have had good luck with their WD hitches with the dual cam sway control. Any opinions on this?
Also: I went to the dealer today to sign my life away and while I was there, I took a walk around the camper, sort of a pre-PDI, if you will, and am curious that with the power landing gear and stabilizer buttons located at the front of the rig, how can I tell when the stabilizers are in the right position all the way in the back? I certainly couldn't see them with the slides out, and doubt I'll see them when they're in, either. I'm sure this will be straightened out when I do the PDI, but I was wondering if anyone here can clear it up.

[mhs4771]

Dave, I'm just guessing, but is that R16 a 16K hitch? If so you might want to see if you can get an 18 or 20K. Depending on how you load a Monty it can get heavy in a hurry. When we got our Monty a 16K is what the dealer wanted to install, I wanted an 18, which they didn't have so they offered a 20K. Sure glad we went bigger or we would have had to upgrade the hitch when we got our SOB (gross of 16.5K). Just something to think about since you're got the TV to handle it.

[NCFischers]

I would go with a 20K hitch. We started with a Reese 15K and upgraded the head to a Reese 20K. You should have a remote keypad to operate the stabilizers so you can stand by them when you lower them.

[sambam]

Remote keypad, wow, I'm really going high tech with this unit! I will say that while poking around inside the camper, I found a bunch of remotes, so no doubt one of them performs this operation. This just keeps getting better! Thanks.
Reese also offers a R20, but because the 3455SA has a GVW or 15,560, and my truck has a 5th wheel towing max of 16k, the decision seemed obvious. I have always payed close attention to weights, and always wanted to err on the side of safety. I can pay the extra for a R20, but isn't that a moot point? I don't intend to go over GVW of the camper or max towing of the truck. You guys know more about this stuff. Should I get the R20 for the extra wiggle room?

[sambam]

One more thing: what's an SOB?

[DonandJudy_12]

SOB stands for Some Other Brand- Enjoy your new toy- JMHO- Don

[sambam]

Thanks for clearing that up. I've seen it around but never knew what it meant. I didn't think Montana owners moved on to other things.

[DQDick]

My dealer installed a Reese 15K hitch when I bought my unit, but soon after I upgraded it with a 20k head. It's not about what you're pulling but about what will happen if you come to a sudden stop. I've had two different drivers pull out in front of me without looking then see me and freeze. So far I've been able to stop, but if I hit something I want the hitch as strong as possible. I've seen some lower K hitches that were torn apart in those situations even though the trailer wasn't overweight. Forces during a wreck can be severe.

[Champ_49]

X2 on the heavier hitch. Its a good insurance policy. As others been there done that with the lighter hitch! Another thing to consider is maybe a air ride hitch which is what I wished I had done. I bought an air ride pin box and it will have to stay with the unit when I upgrade when an air ride hitch will stay witht he truck or can transfer to a new truck. Beleive me when I say air ride makes a huge difference.

Dave

Dave

[1retired06]

Agree, and make sure it is a 4-way rotatable

[HOOK]

quote:Originally posted by sambam

Thanks for clearing that up. I've seen it around but never knew what it meant. I didn't think Montana owners moved on to other things.

I'm with you Sambam! LOL!

[NCFischers]

I was wearing the capture plate (the rear plate that locks the pin) on my 15K hitch so it left a bit of play which over time would increase. The 20K has a different and much heavier method of holding the pin.

[sambam]

I hadn't considered the effects on the hitch in the event of a panic stop. Now that you've made me aware of this, it makes sense to go with the heavier hitch. Thanks for the responses.

[NCFischers]

My wear wasn't from a panic stop, just normal wear from starting and stopping and the edge of the plate began to wear. I think you'll be happier with a heavier hitch, I know I am.

[Art-n-Marge]

Regarding the slideouts and not being able to see the rear stabilizers. The slides should not be out until the rig is level and stabilized, which means the stabilizers will be down prior to extending the slideouts or when breaking camp, the slides will be retracted before raising the stabililizers. The goal is for the rig to be as level and stable so when the slides are in motion in either direction then movement of the rig is lessened and level as much as possible so that the slide movement creates as little stress as possible.

This is what is recommended in my manual and is one of the things that prevents the "start/stop" problem for my model year rig's slideout movement.

[sambam]

Interesting that the slides should be in until the stablizers are down. It makes perfect sense for all the reasons you mention. Funny, they weren't down yesterday when I was at the dealer. The slides were out tho. That doesn't surprise me too much. I used to have Debbie move the slide out before lowering the stablizers on our Cougar, just to make sure I wasn't too close to the service, or tree or whatever obstruction may be in the way. That slide was 36" extended. I actually got pretty good at eyeballing it. I guess when you have 4 slides, as opposed to 1, this becomes more of an issue.

[woodtic]

I have the Reese R16 hitch. I don't have the 5er experience of some on here but, I have been very happy with the hitch. It is a very nice high quality hitch. I have tested it in a couple panic stop situations and it has been fine. I have not crash tested it yet and hope I never have to. I also have the Moride pin box and use a lube plate. One day I may get a higher rated hitch but not because I'm unhappy with this one.

[bigskyjimmy]

I think it is overkill to get a 20K hitch, Dang man I'm not towing a New Horizons or something I have been using a Valley 16k For a long time and it always hold tight with no slop, easy hookup, have not seen any wear in 5 years of use... but what the heck it is your cash

[mhs4771]

I don't thing using a 20K hitch for a 16K rig is over kill. New 3402s are listing a gross of 16K, so even if not loaded to the max you have very little margin left in a 16K hitch. In our case, if we had gone with the 16K the dealer wanted to install, we would have had to replace the hitch before towing our SOB home since it's listed at 16.5K.

[bigskyjimmy]

WOW Michelle and ANN how many cats you haulin in that rig??? l would have to have all Full tanks and LOADED for bear to weigh that much in my 3402RL I would get a 18k hitch if I was paranoid about it, I had mine installed at Torklift, one of the best in the buisness, I told them what my weights were and they could have recommended a 18k and made more money on me but they said the 16k is more than good to go and thats good enough for me and has been for 5 years and besides if I ever got up to 16+k my Marathons would blow first before my hitch breaks anyway