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Old 03-21-2008, 07:21 AM   #21
richfaa
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Here are some numbers....Today with the main A/C on we are drawing 13Amps on L1.Turn the main A/C off and we draw 2 amps so the main A/C is drawing 11 amps. Turn off the main A/C and turn on the Bedroom A/C..low cool and L1 reads 12amps so the bedroom A/C draws 10 amps for a total of 23 A/C amps on L1..L1 normally runs 2/4 amps depending on what is "on" in the camper.
My knowledge on what the converter is doing when on AC is limited so I will not comment.
 
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Old 03-21-2008, 08:54 AM   #22
H. John Kohl
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa

-SNIP- My knowledge on what the converter is doing when on AC is limited so I will not comment.
The main A/C-Heater control panel runs off DC therefore the convert is providing 12VDC to that unit. If the battery has a good charge the current draw should be small.

richfaa,
What did you use to measure current and where did you take your readings?

Thanks,
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Old 03-21-2008, 04:57 PM   #23
richfaa
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I have the progressive industries Surge protector PT50C and it has a digital readout. Very handy device.
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:19 PM   #24
noneck
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I still think you need to do the voltage check when in that situation again. I read in one of the camping assessories books that our converters are 30 amp max...so that may very well be the unexpected current load putting you over the top. Seems to agree with the battery charge issue you described.
When boondocking I run my kipor for 2 - 3 hours w/o runnning much else and in all cases my battery monitor leds indicate full charge at the end of this period.
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Old 04-04-2008, 06:58 PM   #25
Bill and Lisa
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David, quick check without having to measure voltage at the battery - when you are charging the battery with the generator do all four idiot lights shine? I am not positive what the set point DC values are for each light but my understanding is the various lights correspond to a DC voltage on the DC bus (not actually off the battery itself - If you open up the battery disconnect you will not get a reading)
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